Fox Run Owner, Scott Osborn, pours his wines at Wegmens in Gainesville, Virginia.

Indeed, Fox Run has much to offer. Overlooking beautiful Seneca Lake, Fox Run produces wines from about a dozen different grapes. Riesling and Cabernet Franc—which do exceptionally well in the region—are major players. But the winery also grows heavy-hitters like Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, as well as unique wines from lesser-known grapes like Gamay (the grape of Beaujolais), Gewurztraminer, and Lemberger. From central Europe, Lemberger is known as Blaufrankish in Austria and Kékfrankos in Hungary.

A personal favorite from Fox Run is their Cabernet Franc, which is surprisingly delicate and fruity, without the green “stalky” and tannic characteristics of some Cabernet Franc wines. Fox Run’s version is more subtle with raspberry notes and a food-friendly, crisp profile.

A number of Fox Run wines are available at area Wegmens supermarkets, where Fox Run’s unoaked Chardonnay is bargain-priced for under $10. It’s a perfect summer-sipping wine to enjoy with grilled chicken.  But before dinner, you might enjoy the off-dry (lightly sweet) Arctic Fox white blend. It comes in a beautiful blue bottle, which makes an impressive presentation among friends.

If you want to try a bit of New York history, try the Fox Trot Red, which is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and American Concord grapes. This is a sweet red wine that Fox Run owner Scott Osborn recommends mixing with club soda to make a summer cocktail.

And of course, MacNeil is right that Fox Run Rieslings are a must-try, and they too are available at Wegmens. If you are skeptical of this variety because you don’t like sweet wine, try Fox Run’s dry Riesling. It is a crisp and refreshing wine that is wonderful chilled on a hot summer day. But when you order out some spicy Asian food, pair it with Fox Run’s off-dry Riesling.

Finger Lakes Rieslings are exceptional because the grape excels in the region’s cool climate, which is much like Germany’s. New York’s Rieslings are made dry, off-dry, and lusciously sweet. The sweet wines are sometimes made from grapes frozen on the vine—known as ice wine—producing very fresh and fruity wines. Others are made from grapes that dehydrate on the vine, the result of a type of “noble” rot.  This is the same practice used to make some of the most expensive wines in Sauternes—a sub-region in Bordeaux, France.  These wines are lusciously sweet and complex with dried fruit, citrus, and apricot flavors packaged in a syrupy texture.

As Fox Run’s selections attest, the state is growing a diverse mix of grapes, which is a relatively new development in the Finger Lakes region.  For much of  its wine-making history, the region focused on growing grapes native to America because the varieties from Europe—from the species Vitis vinifera—did not do well in the area’s cold climate. Fortunately, that changed in the 1950s when an immigrant and botanist from the Ukraine—Dr. Konstantin Frank—began researching ways to make European grapes work in the area’s climate by attaching them to cold-hardy American rootstock. He also understood that the lakes created moderate mesoclimates suitable for many grapes.

Dr. Frank succeeded; he eventually opened his own winery in the state and encouraged others to follow suit. It took several decades for the state’s industry to take off. In 1976, the state government helped by passing the Farm Winery Act, which allows wineries to sell their wines to retailers and restaurants directly, rather than going through a distributor as other states mandate. According to the Oxford Companion to Wine, the state’s wine industry took off after that law passed, adding 190 new wineries by 2005. Fox Run was one of those wineries, opening its doors in 1993.

Hugo kicked the meeting off with the Finca La Linda Torrontés, which had a floral aroma that made me anticipate a sweet, full-bodied white.  What I got was an ultra clean and bone dry refresher that held the door for the first course of market greens, herbs and truffled new potatoes.  The winery’s value line, Finca la Linda aims for a fruit-forward modern style.  Hugo next poured the unoaked Chardonnay from that line along with a chardonnay from the Riserva line.  Due to partial oak-aging the Riserva offered a sleek backbone and toast, while the La Linda was young and crisp with notes of apple.  Both were delightful pairs to finish our salads and an amuse of tuna tartare.

Next we compared Hugo’s Pinot Noir and  Temperanillo, poured to match a dish of duck confit, hand-rolled cavatappi, maitake mushrooms and beet purée.  The Pinot, which Hugo admitted to be the winery’s on-going experiment, turned out to be my favorite of the day.  Stylistically it reminded me of Monterey County, and its “crazy pluminess” reminded Dick of Russian River.  I thought the wine offered a bright contrast to the mildly gamey duck and the nestled up to the earthiness of the beet purée.  The Tempranillo was 100% pure from one of the older family vineyards.  Distinct old-world style with ripe, ripe tannins.

To meet Mina’s signature butter-poached, wood-fired filet, Hugo poured the two Malbecs from his line.  Both the Riserva and the DOC Malbec were outstanding representatives of Mendoza’s signature varietal, but the aromatics of the DOC made for an extra special experience.  ”To be honest, the winery is producing European style wines.  We are trying to have wine for food, and Europeans have the best wines for food.  Even when we are working with new world grapes, we are trying to make wines that will pair with different types of meats,” said Hugo.  Dick offered that, “Malbec is, or was, the flagship wine of Argentina, but it doesn’t need to be anymore, because Argentina makes many other good wines…Malbec brought Argentina the attention of the world, and now it has many other wines to offer.”

All of the wines we tasted cost between $12-$28 dollars.  They offer tremendous value, but do not taste like value wines.  Were we tasting blind, accompanied by cuisine from a top restaurant, I would have guessed that all 7 wines were ultra-premium samples from everywhere but South America.  The first comment I always hear about Argentinian Malbecs is that they are a great value.  While that is definitely true, I left this table enlightened about a wine region that is making many great wines regardless of the price.

Thomas Perez not only provides flawless service at L’Auberge Carmel’s Aubergine, but oversees the wine programs at all of the Mirabel Group’s restaurants.   Aubergine’s 4,500 bottle collection is a winner of Wine Spectator’s Best of Award of Excellence, and L’Auberge Carmel consistently ranks on the lists of Relais & Chateaux, Conde Nast and Gayot.  Thomas plans to bring wine makers to be guest sommeliers at Aubergine beginning in April. The first guest wine maker/sommelier will be Emmanuel Kemiji of Miura Vineyards on April 23. On July 16, Dan Kosta of Kosta Browne Winery will join guests.

According to the Wine Spectator, this wine ranks 90 points. Spectator tasting notes read: “very toasty, offering showy mocha and spice aromatics, but there’s also plenty of flesh, with lush raspberry, fig and plum notes that follow through on the long, polished finish.” The Wine Advocate ranks it 89, noting: “The 2006 Malbec Reserva is a more saturated color and more expressive aromatically. Ripe and rich on the palate, it has ample tannin to evolve for 2-3 years, impeccable balance, and a lengthy, pure finish. It over-delivers for its modest price.” The winery’s notes on the wine describe it as: “Rich red in color with purple hints. Expressive ripe black fruit, violet, spice and tobacco aromas. Very broad on the palate, meaty and of persistent finish.”

I picked this one up at Costco for just $12.99, which is an incredible discount.  It sells at wine.com for about $18.  At my table, it was full of dark fruit–black cherries and more-but also had an herbaceous quality that proved to be a fantastic complement to the rye flavors in my pumpernickel bread and the spices like rosemary in the soup. This match will make your cold winter snow day more of a treat.

Here is the soup recipe: Simmer together a few cups of water, a large Knor’s beef bullion cube, garden vegetables (cauliflower, zucchini, carrots, and sautéed mushrooms), rosemary, thyme, onion powder, garlic powder, salt, and about a cup of red wine (can be inexpensive). Just as the vegetables are getting soft and ready to eat, cook up a fillet mignon or other beef cut under the broiler. Even if you like your meat well done, cook medium or even rare (it will continue cooking when you drop it in your soup. Cut cooked meat in cubes and drop into the broth just before you are ready to eat. Serve with pumpernickel bread, and Norton Malbec or another herbaceous rich red wine.

2004 Cadus Malbec

The 2004 Cadus Malbec is highly recommended by Justin Persons, owner of and Sommelier at The Double Musky Inn at Girdwood, outside of Anchorage, Alaska. Justin has assembled an award-winning wine list, and displays the collection in a recently-built 3500-bottle showcase cellar. The landmark inn has been a Persons family business for nearly 30 years and is famous for its steaks and Cajun flavor. Big flavor calls for big wines, and Justin has brought together an outstanding line-up of first-growth Bordeaux, Grand Cru Burgundy, and Napa Cabernet to answer that call. This is where you’ll want to stop for dinner the next time you pass through Anchorage.

When asked about a wine that had recently impressed him, he immediately described the 2004 Cadus Malbec from Bodegas Nieto Senetiner in Mendoza, Argentina. Malbecs from Argentina have become increasingly popular over the past few years because they deliver huge results at very modest prices. This Malbec represents the higher end of Argentinean wines, but still retails at just below $40 a bottle. The fruit comes from a single vineyard which is carefully managed to produce the purest expression of the country’s Malbec. Blackberry and raspberry are abundant throughout the layers of flavor preceded by aromas of mocha and violets. It’s a very complex wine that compels contemplation.

Though the price won’t allow most of us to make this a weeknight sipper, the Cadus is a must for your next big dinner party. FIND IT!

Swirl has been open for two years in the River North neighborhood. Richard chooses the best from what his distributors offer multiple times per week, so his wine selection constantly changes. He looks for great taste and good value that complements the atmosphere and the assorted small plates from their kitchen. In addition to offering all their wines by the glass and bottle, Swirl offers half-bottle pricing as well. This tasty South American blend is available for under $10 a bottled at numerous retailers nation-wide.

When asked to recommend a wine that goes well with real southern cooking, Michael, a certified sommelier, wouldn’t recommend a wine at all, but sweet iced tea! It was a humble reminder that the sommelier exists to enhance the dining experience.

Michael Bryan does think highly of the Ben Marco Malbec, because it drinks well alone or with food. This Argentine red from the Mendoza region has soft tannins that finish long, with dark fruit notes that give way to a smoky mocha flavor. You should find this bottle for less than $22.