John suggested Peay Vineyards “La Bruma” Syrah, Sonoma Coast.  The wine is deep purple and offers dark berries and fig on the nose.  The wine is medium-bodied, and tightly wound at first so it would benefit from decanting.  Bacon fat, berry and graphite are ushered in by supple tannins.

John has worked side-by-side with James Beard Award-winning chef Nancy Oakes for 14 years.  ”At Boulevard I take a global view of wine, offering a little bit of everything.  Our wines by the glass are chosen to fit snugly with food, and our bottle list is readable, not daunting,” said John.

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I was especially impressed with the 2007 Plummer Vineyard Petite Sirah.  One word best describes it:  Viscosity.  This wine is pitch black; seemingly impenetrable.  I anticipated major intensity from this wine, but was pleasantly surprised by suppleness and elegance.  Weighty but not meaty, the wine offered ample flavors of wild blueberry and currant.  Plummer Vineyard is owned by Bianchi Winery’s neighboor.  Bianchi’s winemaker, Tom Lane, buys fruit for his “Signature Selection” wines from them and other reputable growers.  All of the fruit that goes into the winery’s “Heritage Selection” wines is grown on their property in Paso Robles.  Depending onthe vintage, the wine will always be close to 100% Petite Sirah will spend between 19-30 months in oak.

Despite it being the start of the busiest time of year in wine country, Tom Lane spent half an hour with me on the phone enlightening me about the people and process behind the wines.  Bianchi grows Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah on 28 acres surrounding the winery.  They buy fruit from growers they have strong relationships with to craft white and additional  red wines from varietals such as Refosco and Sangiovese.  Asked to briefly summarize his winemaking philosophy, Tom said he endeavors to “accentuate the grape first, then layer in other qualities.”  This statement rang true in the wines I sampled.  Tom aims to yeild 3.5-4 tons of fruit per acre, thinning heavily before veraison (the onset of ripening).  This, combined with the use of soil moisture monitors and vertical shoot positioning trellis systems to increase air flow around the fruit, ensure each berry gets the royal treatment.

After engaging me with a few questions about which styles of wine I preferred, and offering a few optional suggestions, Gino settled on what he described as “one of the best values in Pinot Noir” he has seen in awhile, a wine from Fiddlehead Cellars.  ”Fiddlestix is nestled between Sanford and Sea Smoke (vineyards), and is cultivated by stewards who stress biodynamic practices.”  The wine is named after the mile marker (728) on Santa Rosa Road in Santa Rita Hills, and offers elegant layers of cherry and white pepper on the palate.

At Delicias, Gino endeavors to let taste be the guide to his guests’ wine choices.  To that end, he priced all of his by the glass offerings the same, and includes such quality producers as Flowers Winery.  In addition to an extensive list of bottles, he has implemented a creative wine flight program that allows guests to compare old world versus new word wines, challenge themselves by evaluating his selections blind, and custom flights built to one’s specific tastes.

If you have the pleasure of dining at Delicias, don’t be surprised if Gino announces to the entire dining room his need for assistance evaluating a new bottle, and pouring a taste for you and everyone else in the room.  Your honest feedback will be welcome!

Sommelier Gino Campbell in the Cellar of Delicias.

Photo Credit: Ranch & Coast

The Firehouse is a Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence winner.  Mario said his wine program has historically focused on wines of California, but currently has a good mix from all regions of the world, especially Spain and Australia.  Join them on July 30 when they host Erin Green, winemaker at Pahlmayer, for a 6-course winemakers dinner.

I also asked Mario about his all-time favorite wine and the best he’s had recently for around $10.  He loves almost any rosé from Provence: “For $7 or $8 you can pour it in a carafe and have a bunch of friends over and thats all you need.”  His fondest wine memories come from the wines of Blain-Gagnard, which he drank from the barrel at the winemaker’s home in Cote d”Or.

Steak time, and the next two wines had gone into the decanter right before Scott and Shannon arrived with the steaks and a back-up bottle of 2004 Turley Duarte Vineyard, just in case. I received these bottles of Emblem Oso Vineyard and Emblem Rutherford from the marketing rep, who suggested the wines would be great for Father’s day as they were made by the father-son team of Michael Mondavi and Robert Mondavi, Jr. They were definitely great for the Friday night before Father’s day. I served the wines simultaneously for comparison sake, and I think we all agreed immediately that these wines shared far more differences than similarities. The 2006 Emblem Oso Vineyard was inviting and approachable, with loads of bright red cherries and vanilla. The soft tannins provided a flexible structure that matched perfectly with both the steak and the cheesy potato gratin we were eating. The 2006 Emblem Rutherford was a much taller order. The deep dark fruit in this wine’s nose warned me that this wine was way too young to be opened now. It is dark, chewy and firm with a backbone crafted by fruit that is distinctly Rutherford style. While the Oso Vineyard was open to all senses, the Rutherford was still zipped up even after an hour in the decanter. Both wines were big, maybe even bigger than the sub-$50 price tag suggests. The Oso is ready now, and the Rutherford will pay dividends in 5-10 years.

Participating Wineries include Bonny Doon Vineyard, Cline Cellars, Clos Saron, D.H. Gustafson Family Vineyards, Fess Parker Winery & Vineyards, Folin Cellars, Guy Riedel Wines, Katin, Rocca Family Vineyards, Sawtooth Winery, Stage Left Cellars, Stark Wine, Tablas Creek Vineyard, Tarara Winery, Tercero Wines, Terry Hoage Vineyards, and Vina Robles.

Winemaker Rob Folin

The Rhone Rangers held a press tasting at Zola Kitchen yesterday featuring outstanding white wines made from Viognier, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc, and reds made from Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre.  My favorites were:  Folin Cellars 2008 “Misceo” red blend from Oregon, which was lush and velvety with layers of dark berry and a hint of cocoa; Tablas Creek 2008 “Cotes de Tablas Blanc”, which offered hints of tropical fruit, melon and citrus with great acidity; and Terry Hoage’s (the Redskins Superbowl Champ) “Skins” Grenache which was peppery with plums and very refined.

If you can’t catch them while they are in town tonight at the Smithsonian, their wines are definitely worth seeking out.

Jeff produces his wines from grapes grown on 16 acres of the Casa Santinamaria Vineyard.  The winery practices field blending, in which grape varieties are blended in the vineyard planting instead of the winery.  The Cabernet Sauvignon is a special release, as most of their vineyard space is devoted to Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Semillon.

Massimo is proud that his food products are 100% natural, hormone-free, antibiotic-free, & of the highest quality of organic & biodynamic seasonal offerings.  To Massimo, food and wine are inseparable.  He crafts his dishes with wine pairings in mind.  The seasonal menu is designed with six categories of wine styles & complimentary food selections.

Ron Marshall in the Cellar of Mr. Stox

This week’s pick was offered by Sommelier Ron Marshall of Mr. Stox Restaurant in Anaheim California, who recommended the 2008 Carneros Pinot Noir from ZD Wines.  ”The 2008 vintage marked the 40th Anniversary of ZD Wines, and this wine is the 40th consecutive vintage of Pinot Noir produced. Crafted from a blend of the highly regarded Dijon clones 667, 777 and the older, but equally respected, 115 and Pommard clones, this wine is a true expression of what the Carneros has to offer. The vineyard has been farmed organically since 2002 and was certified in 2005. The medium ruby color and aromas of briary raspberry and black cherry are complemented by subtle hints of vanilla, cedar and rhubarb. Aged for 10 months in small French Oak barrels, the subtle oak nuances integrate beautifully with the ripe, unctuous fruit and silky tannins,” noted winemaker Chis Pisani.

Mr. Stox is an Anaheim institution, and Ron Marshall oversees a substantial wine program that earned its first Wine Spectator Grand Award back in 1983.  Mr Stox is also honored to receive the Golden Bacchus award from the Southern California Restaurant for the 25,000 bottle wine inventory offering over 1100 wine selections. Most recently Mr Stox was selected by the Nation’s Restaurant News to their Fine Dining Hall of Fame. Likewise, the Wine Enthusiast Magazine honored Mr Stox in 2005 with its Award of Ultimate Distinction.

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Claude Thibaut

Claude Thibaut is known as a Champagne Master, or more precisely, a master of the Methode Champenoise.  He has made sparking wine on three continents and is currently producing a beautiful bubbly in Virginia from Chardonnay grapes.  Recently, Claude collaborated with Zola Chef Bryan Moscatello to design a 6-course menu which highlighted all of the wines Claude had a hand in making.  Claude generously hosted the dinner, a fund-raiser in support of the American Heart Association’s Annual Heart’s Delight Wine Tasting and Auction weekend.

Upon arrival we were poured Yarrabank Cuvée Brut, Claude’s Australian project.  The wine had a lightness which left plenty of room for the rich flavors of the accompanying brioche-wrapped oysters and chicken liver cream puffs.

When seated, Claude introduced his two Virginia wines:  The Thibaut-Janisson “Blanc de Chardonnay” and the T-J Virginia Fizz.  These wines were a great contrast between old-world and new-world style, and complemented roast beet and watermelon salad with grilled ramps.

For the next course of Taylor Bay scallops with truffles, squash blossoms and tarragon broth, Claude poured a 2006 Wedding Cuvée from Iron Horse and the “Cuvée 20” brut sparkler from J Vineyards.   Claude served as a consulting winemaker for these two wineries shortly after arriving in California in the early part of the last decade.  Both were great, but the lushness of Iron Horse’s Blanc de Noirs combined with the truffles to make a tremendous combo.

Returning to his roots, Claude uncorked Champagne for the next two courses of preserved lemon marinated rabbit and sous vide lamb shoulder.  The rabbit topped ricotta gnocci in coriander jus, which was enhanced by aromas of dark toast in the Champagne Janisson & Fils “Tradition”.  We rolled to the lamb with the same house’s flowery brut rosé.  Both of these Champagnes were excellent, and outstanding values to boot.  The Janisson and Thibaut families have worked closely together for many generations.

Claude threw us a ringer for the dessert course, breaking out a bottle of 1997  Chateau Coutet to accompany the rhubarb tart.  The intense minerality of the Sauternes-Barsac ensured that no one complained about breaking off from the scheduled bubbly.  Claude Thibaud and Chef Bryan Moscatello both truly earned the round of applause from the table on this special evening,  I am looking forward to seeing him in action at his winery in Charlottesville.

Cline Cellars was founded by Fred Cline, grandson of Valeriano Jacuzzi, inventor of the Jacuzzi tub (Cline also owns Jacuzzi Vineyards).  However, the Jacuzzi family also grew vines on a farm in Oakley–located in Costra County, California–where Fred Cline spent his summers learning about farming. Planted as far back as the 1800s, these vines include two Rhone grapes: Mourvèdre and Carignane as well as Zinfandel. After inheriting these ancient vineyards, Fred Cline launched Cline Cellars, which now makes wines from the vines at the Oakley vineyard, some of which are more than 100 years old.  Low yielding, these plants produce rich and intensely flavored wines.

In the early 1990s, Cline eventually moved with is wife Nancy to the Carneros region of Sonoma County where they planted more Rhone varietals—Syrah, Mourvèdre, Roussanne—which were not commonly planted in that relatively cooler region. But Cline Cellars has produced some amazingly good results, proving that the area was good for a wider range of varietals than Pinot Noir and other cool climate grapes common in Carneros.  Cline also owns vineyard land in nearby Petaluma.

Cline Cellars is now counted among a host of wineries that make Rhone-styled wines in America that are collectively called “The Rhone Rangers.” Several Rhone Rangers are coming to D.C. for an event on June 10 for wine trade and  press.  However, they are offering  a select-number of tickets for the public; book your space ASAP before they run out!. See the Weekly Wine Pick Event Calendar for more information.

You don’t have to attend this event to find great Cline wines. I enjoy the full spectrum of their portfolio and would recommend any of them.  However, below I list a few favorites.

Big Break Zinfandel.  Aged 11 months in French oak, this is an incredibly rich and well-balanced Zinfandel from very old vines grown in the Big Break vineyard of Oakley.  The land is also near a Eucalyptus grove, which somehow imparts Eucalyptus mint flavors into the wine.  Although a very big wine with intense flavor, it is still soft and approachable; and it can last up to 7 years in the cellar.  The Wine Spectator gives it 89 points, but I think it should be at least a 90!  This wine is so good that it’s worth paying the shipping if you can’t find it locally.  I recently discovered it on Wine.com for about $27 per bottle.  Wine.com is a good mail order business if you like to shop regularly online because you can pay an annual shipping rate of $49 to cover all shipping costs for an entire year.

Cline Cashmere.  I recently discovered this one at Whole Foods for about $16 a bottle.  The name for this Mourvèdre, Grenache, Syrah blend is on the mark as its most immediately notable quality is an unusually silky and soft texture on the palate.  That is followed by delicate fruit flavors.  The winemaker notes describe it very well:  “Cashmere is a very flavorful smooth wine offering big cherry, raspberry and chocolate notes with hints of cracked black pepper and plum.”

Cline Cellars Zinfandel.  Cline’s value priced Zinfandel deserves much praise because it delivers big at a value price of about $10 a bottle.  Look for the 2008 vintage in particular, which is probably on the shelves now.  This wine is a blend of grapes from Cline’s Oakley vineyard as well as grapes from Sonoma and other parts of California including Lodi (69 percent of the 2008 blend).  Winemaker notes explain that it “showcases a wide array of dark berry fruit including black cherry and raspberry … spice notes and a lasting finish of Vanilla from oak aging and firm, supple tannins add complexity to the wine.”

Cline Late Harvest Mourvèdre, 2006.  This was highlighted in a post last week here on the Weekly Wine Pick, but it is worth noting again.  This is a very unique wine—a sweet red–which frankly surprised me with its rich smooth complex flavors.

Their many other wines also deserve praise. Check out their website to see the full list and keep an eye out when you shop.