Following that opening chapter of Edwards’ vinous life, she took the reins in Sonoma County’s Matanzas Creek Winery, honing her skills over a ten-year span, ending the stint only to become a freelance consultant for vineyards up and down the Pacific Coast.

It may have been in Oregon that she discovered the key to great Pinot Noir, but it was – and still is – in Sonoma’s Russian River Valley that she shapes gorgeous wines from that confounding grape. Together with husband, Ken Coopersmith, the couple manages five estate vineyards and produces wines that continue to stand out in every Pinot Noir tasting.

But, true to her perfectionist core, Merry resists the temptation to settle for what she has already accomplished. As quoted on her website, “People frequently ask what is the best wine I have ever made. I tell them it’s not made yet!”

With each bottle of Merry Edwards Pinot Noir, I can’t help but nod in agreement with her.

Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast, $36). Smooth yet with a lively accent, rich fruit, intriguing accent of black licorice, soft textures. Score: 88

Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard (Russian River Valley, $54). Dark cherry flavors, light hint of tobacco, sage-like notes, savory accent. Score: 92

Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch (Russian River Valley, $57). Broad palate of dark fruit, accented by mineral notes, pleasingly spicy finish. Score: 92

Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir Meredith Estate (Russian River Valley, $57). Rich ripe red fruit with a berrylike taste, smooth textures, hint of milk chocolate on finish. Score: 93

The Firehouse is a Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence winner.  Mario said his wine program has historically focused on wines of California, but currently has a good mix from all regions of the world, especially Spain and Australia.  Join them on July 30 when they host Erin Green, winemaker at Pahlmayer, for a 6-course winemakers dinner.

I also asked Mario about his all-time favorite wine and the best he’s had recently for around $10.  He loves almost any rosé from Provence: “For $7 or $8 you can pour it in a carafe and have a bunch of friends over and thats all you need.”  His fondest wine memories come from the wines of Blain-Gagnard, which he drank from the barrel at the winemaker’s home in Cote d”Or.

Claude Thibaut

Claude Thibaut is known as a Champagne Master, or more precisely, a master of the Methode Champenoise.  He has made sparking wine on three continents and is currently producing a beautiful bubbly in Virginia from Chardonnay grapes.  Recently, Claude collaborated with Zola Chef Bryan Moscatello to design a 6-course menu which highlighted all of the wines Claude had a hand in making.  Claude generously hosted the dinner, a fund-raiser in support of the American Heart Association’s Annual Heart’s Delight Wine Tasting and Auction weekend.

Upon arrival we were poured Yarrabank Cuvée Brut, Claude’s Australian project.  The wine had a lightness which left plenty of room for the rich flavors of the accompanying brioche-wrapped oysters and chicken liver cream puffs.

When seated, Claude introduced his two Virginia wines:  The Thibaut-Janisson “Blanc de Chardonnay” and the T-J Virginia Fizz.  These wines were a great contrast between old-world and new-world style, and complemented roast beet and watermelon salad with grilled ramps.

For the next course of Taylor Bay scallops with truffles, squash blossoms and tarragon broth, Claude poured a 2006 Wedding Cuvée from Iron Horse and the “Cuvée 20” brut sparkler from J Vineyards.   Claude served as a consulting winemaker for these two wineries shortly after arriving in California in the early part of the last decade.  Both were great, but the lushness of Iron Horse’s Blanc de Noirs combined with the truffles to make a tremendous combo.

Returning to his roots, Claude uncorked Champagne for the next two courses of preserved lemon marinated rabbit and sous vide lamb shoulder.  The rabbit topped ricotta gnocci in coriander jus, which was enhanced by aromas of dark toast in the Champagne Janisson & Fils “Tradition”.  We rolled to the lamb with the same house’s flowery brut rosé.  Both of these Champagnes were excellent, and outstanding values to boot.  The Janisson and Thibaut families have worked closely together for many generations.

Claude threw us a ringer for the dessert course, breaking out a bottle of 1997  Chateau Coutet to accompany the rhubarb tart.  The intense minerality of the Sauternes-Barsac ensured that no one complained about breaking off from the scheduled bubbly.  Claude Thibaud and Chef Bryan Moscatello both truly earned the round of applause from the table on this special evening,  I am looking forward to seeing him in action at his winery in Charlottesville.

  Searching for a holiday wine?  Seek out this week’s recommendation from esteemed wine writer and educator Summer Whitford:

  “If you are a Pinot Noir lover or know someone who is, Merry Edwards’ 2006 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir will make your wine sipping Merry-er!  It exhibits abundant plum, dark berry, and dark sour cherry notes on both the nose and the palate.  The wine’s full body and velvety texture hint at the Titian-style ripeness that has made Merry Edwards Sonoma Valley’s undisputed “Queen of Pinot Noir”.

“Her eponymous winery makes both red and white wine sourced from grapes grown on more than 40 acres of Pinot Noir vines in the Meredith Estate, Coopersmith, and Georganne vineyards in Russian River Valley as well as premium parcels in the Sonoma Valley AVA.  Merry passionately asserts that good winemaking occurs in the vineyard and for more than 30 years she has remained true to her viticultural and culinary roots. 

“That is why her Pinot Noirs exhibit a restrained elegance that doesn’t overwhelm your palate or food with big oaky tannins and high alcohol levels.  These wines aren’t about power–they are all about finesse.  They seduce you with their charms and slowly reveal their secrets, one sip at a time.  As you linger over your glass, the wines become less elusive and slowly open up to display layers of deeply nuanced aromas and character.  Underlying this are earthy flavors that are mellowed by balanced fruit and acidity.”

If you would like to entertain as Merry does, try serving this Pinot Noir with Epicurious’ recipe for Roasted Pork Loin with Cardamom Currant Jelly Sauce—the combination is delicious.  Merry Edwards Russian River Pinot Noir can be found at The Wine Specialist or at retailers listed on Wine-Searcher.com.