WeeklyWinePick.com » Champagne

Bubbly Around the World

Derek Swanson — Thu, 27 May 2010 18:03:34 +0000

Claude Thibaut

Claude Thibaut is known as a Champagne Master, or more precisely, a master of the Methode Champenoise. He has made sparking wine on three continents and is currently producing a beautiful bubbly in Virginia from Chardonnay grapes. Recently, Claude collaborated with Zola Chef Bryan Moscatello to design a 6-course menu which highlighted all of the wines Claude had a hand in making. Claude generously hosted the dinner, a fund-raiser in support of the American Heart Association’s Annual Heart’s Delight Wine Tasting and Auction weekend.

Upon arrival we were poured Yarrabank Cuvée Brut, Claude’s Australian project. The wine had a lightness which left plenty of room for the rich flavors of the accompanying brioche-wrapped oysters and chicken liver cream puffs.

When seated, Claude introduced his two Virginia wines: The Thibaut-Janisson “Blanc de Chardonnay” and the T-J Virginia Fizz. These wines were a great contrast between old-world and new-world style, and complemented roast beet and watermelon salad with grilled ramps.

For the next course of Taylor Bay scallops with truffles, squash blossoms and tarragon broth, Claude poured a 2006 Wedding Cuvée from Iron Horse and the “Cuvée 20” brut sparkler from J Vineyards. Claude served as a consulting winemaker for these two wineries shortly after arriving in California in the early part of the last decade. Both were great, but the lushness of Iron Horse’s Blanc de Noirs combined with the truffles to make a tremendous combo.

Returning to his roots, Claude uncorked Champagne for the next two courses of preserved lemon marinated rabbit and sous vide lamb shoulder. The rabbit topped ricotta gnocci in coriander jus, which was enhanced by aromas of dark toast in the Champagne Janisson & Fils “Tradition”. We rolled to the lamb with the same house’s flowery brut rosé. Both of these Champagnes were excellent, and outstanding values to boot. The Janisson and Thibaut families have worked closely together for many generations.

Claude threw us a ringer for the dessert course, breaking out a bottle of 1997 Chateau Coutet to accompany the rhubarb tart. The intense minerality of the Sauternes-Barsac ensured that no one complained about breaking off from the scheduled bubbly. Claude Thibaud and Chef Bryan Moscatello both truly earned the round of applause from the table on this special evening, I am looking forward to seeing him in action at his winery in Charlottesville.

Françoise Bedel, Champagne Brut “Dis Vin Secret”

Derek Swanson — Wed, 25 Nov 2009 21:10:24 +0000

A last minute recommendation to start tomorrow’s feast, this week’s pick comes from Master of Wine Liz Berry, of Provence, France. Ms. Berry offered these comments on a Champagne she is fond of: ”I have been incredibly impressed by the quality of all the Champagnes from Françoise Bedel. With 8.4 hectares in Crouttes sur Marne, the domaine is run using bio-dynamic principles, with all racking, bottling, and vineyard treatments taking place at appropriate phases of the bio-dynamic calendar. The wines all have long aging before disgorging, and are produced in a traditional style, using a percentage of oak casks for the first fermentation. The Dis Vin Secret is a dry champagne with enough body to accompany both fish and meat dishes, with wonderful brown bread nutty flavours, very fine mousse, elegant and classy with distinctive pinot Meunier characteristics and a long, complex finish.”

Most of the blend is from the 2003 vintage, with 86% Pinot Meunier, 8% Pinot Noir, and 6% Chardonnay.

Ms. Bedel now runs a fine wine shop, Vins Fins de la Crau, in Provence, which places an emphasis on the Rhône, Languedoc Roussillon and Provence, but with a range encompassing many wine producing countries, grands formats, fine Armagnacs, and olive oil.

Taittinger, Les Folies de la Marquetterie, Champagne, NV

Derek Swanson — Wed, 28 Oct 2009 20:31:16 +0000

This week’s pick comes from Essi Avellan, MW, the editor of FINE Champagne Magazine: ’Champagne is first and foremost a blended product. However, there is increasing excitement amongst enthusiasts for single vineyard wines. Taittinger produces one of my favourite single vineyard Champagnes, Les Folies de la Marquetterie. It comes from a four hectare steep south to south-west sloping vineyard surrounding the Château de la Marquetterie in premier Cru Pierry. The site exposure and soil are responsible for the extraordinary style of the wine.

‘The wine is a blend of three vintages aged on the lees for three years. It is 55 % Chardonnay complemented by 45% Pinot. Overall, Taittinger style is highly elegant and Folies brings a great addition to the range with its vinosity, body and muscular structure. It is a champagne for those who know and who appreciate great champagne. It is not just a toasting or party drink but a perfect accompaniment to food. I think it is really an exciting champagne with great aging capacity. It is priced under the house’s vintage champagne, making it one of the greatest champagne purchases!’

Essi Avellan is a Master of Wine and the editor of the world’s only international champagne magazine. FINE wine magazines are published in 6 languages in over 85 countries. You can learn more about the unique, authoritative and visually stunning magazine and other FINE wine magazines, books and artwork at fine-magazines.com

Ayala Brut Majeur NV, Champagne

Derek Swanson — Wed, 16 Sep 2009 20:12:02 +0000

This week’s pick comes from Craig Hanna, the Cellar Master at Topper’s at the Wauwinet on Nantucket. Craig remarked that the Ayala is a wonderful food Champagne, offering a cleanliness that is perfect for oysters and other fresh seafare. The wine is produced from prime vineyards located in Aÿ and Mareuil sur Aÿ, that were acquired in 1860 by spanish aristcrat Edmond de Ayala. Pinot Noir dominates the blend, with Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier adding fruity notes. The low dosage reveals the delicate nuances of the aromas and the bouquet. Craig also appreciates the the availability of this Champagne in half bottle sizes, which more often allow couples to enjoy the wine before the main courses are served.

The Wauwinet is one of New England’s most exclusive resorts and is open through October 12th. Until then, guest can indulge in the nightly 6-course wine tasting menus with cuisine prepared by chef David Daniels. Topper’s has held Wine Spectator’s Grand Award since 1996, offering over 1800 labels. His list stands out for its enormous selection of Southern Rhones and Burgundies available by the half bottle.

The Ayala Brut Majeur can be found at retail for around $40 a bottle.

Champagne Moutaudon, Grande Rose, Brut, Non-Vintage

Derek Swanson — Mon, 11 Feb 2008 16:41:45 +0000

Valentine’s Day? This champagne is made in the heart of Reims, France, steps from the historic war-scarred cathedral. Nothing against the mass-marketed bottles so familiar to the US market, but if you can try a rose from La Champagne, especially for around $35, Mountaudon will certainly please your Valentine.