To accomplish this, Spencer started with his by-the-glass program.  “It’s a bit easier to convince a guest to try something new if they don’t have to invest in an entire bottle.  The key to using “off” varietals was to get the servers behind the change.  If they are familiar and excited about the new offering, it is fun and easier to sell.  For example, I found a Timorasso made by a small producer in Piemonte named Walter Massa.  It’s a full-bodied white that offers honey-suckle, citrus, nuttiness and tannins.  A great alternative to Chardonnay.”

Spencer has a level 2 certification from the Court of  Master Sommeliers, and the abundance of Spencer’s wine education was gained while travelling through wine regions around the world.  He has explored the vineyards of 70 countries, including Macedonia, Maldova and Montenegro.  “They had wines that blew my mind,” he said.  His quest continues at end of this month with a 3-week trip to Sicily to work the vineyards.  Chef Celestino Drago is from Sicily and the trip might help Spencer better understand his perspective.  “I’m heading to a real back-woodsy winery called Christo di Campobello.  The volcanic soils of Mt. Etna create some incredible and unique wines that should not be ignored.  I found a Nerello Mascalese from Sicily’s Antichi Vinai for our list which has a flavor profile and body similar to that of Pinot Noir.  It’s delicious.”  Spencer noted.

I asked Spencer about how he likes living in in LA and his favorite hang-outs, “It’s great here; the people are really friendly.  People always complain about the traffic but I find it really easy to get where I want to go.”  “Bar Covell is a great spot, especially for wine.  They have 120 wines by the glass there.  Perch on South Hill Street is a really great spot.  And after tasting wine all day the last thing I want is another glass, so I’ll stop by Rivera; they have great cocktails and beer selection.”

What is the first thing that comes to mind? Volcanoes? Mobsters? Square pizza?

 How about wine? Though often overshadowed by the big boys of Italy such as the Brunellos, Barolos and Super-Tuscans, the pedigree of wine from this Mediterranean island can be just as compelling. At a recent lunch with winemaker Alessio Planeta, I got a chance to pair a number of southern Italy’s best with dishes from one of DC’s finest northern Italian kitchens at Ristorante Tosca.

Alessio is as humble as they come, and a gracious host who went out of his way to help us understand what makes his wines and the wines of Sicily unique. He poured six specimens, three whites and three reds, which matched up with four delectable courses. The first was a spread of apps that included Prosciutto de Parma with pickled Pioppini mushrooms and a 12-year Balsamic, grilled baby octopus with braised Brussels sprouts and sea urchin sauce, and a salad of radicchio and Bartlett pears with a Goronzola terrine and toasted walnuts.

My first wine was the 2010 Planeta Carricante. It is a native varietal that comes from their vineyards near Mount Etna. According to Alessio, Carricante’s structure is similar to the wines of Alsace, and an ideal 5-7 year cellaring candidate. The 2010 was tart at first but softened nicely over the course of an hour, offering aromas of green apple, flowers and great acidity. Next was the 2009 Cometa Fiano, which was rich and fat with lots of potential. There was ample slate and chalk on the nose, which comes from the chalky soils near Planeta’s first winery, Ulmo. The wine’s name is derived from the family crest signifying the “surprise of the southwest comet.” No oak is used, resulting in an incredibly pure example of a full-bodied white.

The third white, the 2009 Chardonnay, had a very oaky nose but a fresh balance of oak and fruit in the mouth. It is aged for ten months in 225-liter French oak barrels prior to bottling, and was a great pair to the pasta course of Tortelli filled with Robiola cheese and black truffle with leeks in a Porcini mushroom sauce. Equally good with that dish was the first red wine of the day, a 2010 Cerasuolo di Vittoria. Vittoria is Sicily’s only D.O.C.G. and the wine is named for it’s cherry-red color. Made of Nero d’Avola and Frappato grapes grown in sandy soils near the shore, it was smokey with hints of chocolate and strawberry. The style reminded me of a Cru Beaujolais and did not overpower the texture of the pasta or the flavor of the black truffles.

The next two reds were big, worthy opponents to the pancetta-wrapped beef tenderloin drenched in Chef Massimo Fabbri’s succulent oxtail sauce. The 2009 Dorilli Cerasuolo de Vittoria Classico D.O.C.G. is blended from the same varietals as the privious red, but all from the single vineyard named after the nearby Dorilli river. Alessio referred to the wine as the “Pinot Noir” of Sicily. It had a complex fruity character similar to a high-end Russian River Pinot, but it was not as spicy. If I had to pick a favorite of the afternoon, this wine was it by just a slight margin over the final wine, the 2007 Santa Cecilia Nero d’Avola. Alessio described this as his “Cru” – his effort to make the best Nero possible. “The vineyard allows the ability to make a serious wine, one that is more complex with great potential to age,” said Alessio. The wine is made at one of Planeta’s newest wineries, Contrada Buonivini. The family thought the land was so delightfully pure they preserved it by building an “invisible winery” completely underground. The wine had an impressive structure and a flavor profile that touched all areas of the mouth. I think it is one of those bottles that will be thought -provoking after ten years of cellaring.

Planeta’s wines are impressive examples of a wine region that should not be overlooked. It is evident that Alessio has a strong appreciation for the unique terroir expressed in the wines of his island, and is intent on preserving the native varietals that grow in his soils.

The tasting was hosted by Palm Bay International, which imports the wines of Planeta.

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon is located at the Four Seasons Hotel on East 57th St.  Chef Robuchon focuses on the highest-quality ingredients, prepared with clockwork precision and abundant creativity.  His casual French style shows a strong affection for Asian cuisine, with its simplicity of presentation, pure and flavourful sauces, and concentration on single, perfect ingredients.  His dishes in New York are executed by Executive Chef Xavier Boyer.

Wine lovers can also stop by the just-opened Garden at the Four Seasons, where they offer over 200 wines by the glass.

Check Wine-Searcher for a retailer near you.

 Jake Kosseff has designed  and influenced the best wine programs in Seattle, including those of Crush and Campagne.  He won the Chaine des Rotisseurs “Best Young Sommelier in America” award in 2006, and was named “Best Sommelier” in 2007 by Seattle Magazine.  Jake’s latest venture is the Extraordinary Wine Club, an exclusive opportunity for members to take advantage of Jake’s expertise in selecting exceptional wines from all over the world.  Information on membership can be found at the club website.