Or it could refer to non-indigenous grapes like Cabernet and Merlot that Italian vintners have incorporated into their ever-growing portfolio of fine wines. “Rare” not because some bespectacled judge intoned on the subject, but because they present a new version of Italian wines, a new style that is still working its magic and creating its market.

These two grapes – Cabernet and Merlot – migrated only a short distance from France, after helping that country establish its centuries-old reputation for elegant wines. In Italy, the oft-labeled “French varietals” such as Cab and Merlot offer a chance to spin the local wines in a new direction, or create something totally different.

Such is the case with Castello di Gabbiano Alleanza, a Tuscan beauty that uses Merlot as its base (83%) and adds 12% of Sangiovese – the grape of Chianti – and rounds it out with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. I tasted the 2008 last night, planning a pork roast for dinner, and was pleasantly surprised to find that the wine scored high points both in my first tasting (without food) and then with the black olive tapenade that I used to quiet the insistent grumblings of a stomach too long ignored. And I hadn’t even gotten to the pork roast yet, the featured entrée and what I thought was the goal of opening this bottle in the first place.

Allenza offers a mouthful of black cherries and plums, with rich textures and full body. It’s light only in the way a Merlot can be light, but otherwise is plush and full of flavor. At $35, it’s not an everyday wine but if you want to impress your friends with a pork roast – or perhaps anything else, from what I found – store a half dozen of these bottles for future feasts.

Although Alleanza is Castello di Gabbiano’s flagship wine, the estate also has other wines that deserve more study, all at lower prices, like the Chianti Classico at $12 and the Chianti Classico Riserva at just $22. In fact, Gabbiano is primary evidence of the adage: Buy the estate, not the vintage. Vintage variation still exists and is an important part of wine buying. But if you find an estate whose wine style you like, keep buying their wines and you’ll not be disappointed.

That might seem like a selfish indulgence, but what part of wine enjoyment isn’t? If we take the time to find a good wine to go with the meal, why not pour a bit of Port to finish it? Okay, cost may get in the way. Most vintage Ports can be pricey, and typically they require years of aging. But there’s a way to resolve both those concerns: Tawny Port.

Textbook production of Port calls for the wine – a blend of Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Francesca and other grapes – to be halted just before fermentation is completed, leaving some unconverted sugar and a relatively low alcohol level. A dose of specially prepared brandy boosts the alcohol to the common 18% – 20% level and – voilà – an after-dinner drink that the world adores.

From there, vintage Port goes into barrel for about two years, then is bottled while its relative youth assures that this fortified wine will still be deep dark red and full-bodied. Over a period of decades, the blush of youth and the deep coloring fades, yielding a sublime flavor and head-spinning pleasure. Of course, this lengthy process of aging forces the Port house to maintain extensive cellaring space, driving up the prices, or forces the buyer of early-release vintage Port to stare at dusty, undisturbed bottles in the closet till the grandchildren are born.

Tawny Ports are easier on the palate and the wallet. These wines are fermented just like the vintage Ports, but left in barrels for the time stipulated on the label, frequently 10 or 20 years. Although this still requires the producer to maintain barrel-aging space, the Tawnies are ready for consumption as soon as they are released and, because they are made in greater quantity when the year doesn’t justify a Vintage Port declaration, Tawny Ports are far more affordable.

Here are some of the finest Tawnies I’ve tasted in recent years:

Ten-Year Tawnies
Churchill’s 10-Year Tawny ($35). Subtle flavors with hints of caramel and vanilla bean. Medium-bodied, nutty, and lightly toasted finish.

Croft 10 Year Tawny ($32). Rich, velvety, and very smooth, hints of chocolate, Eastern spice, and maple syrup.

Dow’s 10 Year Tawny ($33). Fruitier than some others, but with the fruit baked in as if in a succulent pie straight from the oven. Long and silky finish.

Fonseca 10 Year Tawny ($35). Dark hues with slight copper highlights. Deep flavors and full-bodied, suggestion of caramel and vanilla bean, with a light spin of orange peel.

Taylor Fladgate 10 Year Tawny ($29). A classically styled Tawny, with forward aromas of caramel and custard pie, palate impressions include caramel, vanilla, and toffee.

Warre’s Otima 10 Year Tawny ($22/500ml). Effusive aromas of caramel and fruit, silky textures, flavors of honey, caramel and light fruit dominate.

Twenty-Year Tawnies
Churchill’s 20-Year Tawny ($55). Fresh and fruity, yet with the baked apple pie sensation that the best Tawnies enjoy. Accents of lighter fruit bring out the personality.

Fonseca 20 Year Tawny ($52). Roasted nuts and caramel greet the nose, red fruits dominate the palate. Another sumptuous wine from Fonseca.

Graham’s 20 Year Tawny ($60). Traditional style, featuring caramel and ripe fruit on nose, baked fruit pie dominates the palate impression, with a delicate hint of chocolate on finish.

Taylor Fladgate 20 Year Tawny ($55). A rich, finely textured wine featuring a cornucopia of baked fruit flavors, suggestion of ginger and roasted almonds on finish.

True Port is from Portugal, but Prager Winery and Portworks in Napa Valley is giving the traditionalists a run for their money. Prager produces a White Port – don’t dismiss it, white Ports are serious in Portugal – and a Tomás, and a Royal Escort. All are worthy representatives of the class, and prove that the grapes don’t have to be grown in the valleys surrounding the Duoro River to produce fine wines.

Biltmore's Bernard Delille

Bernard Delille, long-time winemaker at the Biltmore Estate Winery was in town to offer his wines for comparison. Delille has been working at the Biltmore Estate – a property best known for its status as an American architectural and historical icon – since 1985, about the time the French hybrid grapevines were being replaced with true French varietals. The bulk of Biltmore’s wines come from estate vineyards in North Carolina although California grapes have been shipped east in recent years to add to the portfolio.

What made the afternoon particularly interesting was tasting North Carolina and California wines side-by-side. There was no epiphany here; the wines provided individual experiences, and each was good for a different purpose. The bubbly made from California was lighter than the bubbly from North Carolina, offering different flavor experiences when paired with Matisse’s delicately battered fried calamari. Similarly, the Chardonnay from Sonoma County – which featured honey and butter accents – differed from the Chardonnay from North Carolina, a big fruity wine with hints of butter, smoke, and oak.

Delille’s wines were served with several dishes at Matisse chosen to highlight the flavors of Delille’s wines. Following the calamari described above, I paired the North Carolina Chardonnay and – later – the Biltmore Reserve Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley with the sesame crusted tuna, perched above a sampling of Yukon potatoes, green beans, and olive tapenade. A full-bodied Chardonnay and an elegant Pinot Noir, such as these from Biltmore, worked equally well with the dish.

Biltmore Estates was founded in 1895 by shipping magnate George Vanderbilt and, though grapes were not planted on the estate until 1971, the Vanderbilts enjoyed fine wines chosen from around the world through the generations. Now, thanks to the replanting of acres of vines and the wise decisions of Bernard Delille, the estate can boast of its own fine wines.

2008 Reserve Blanc de Blancs Méthode Champenoise Brut (North Carolina, $30). Tropical flavors, fine bead of bubbles, slightly citric on finish.

2007 Blanc de Blancs Méthode Champenoise Brut (Russian River Valley, $25). Doughy aromas with lemon and apricot dominant on palate.

2010 Reserve Chardonnay (North Carolina, $15). Fruity and forward, with notes of butter, smoke, and oak.

2010 Reserve Chardonnay (Sonoma County, $20). Rich textures, full body, expressions of honey, guava, and butter.

2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley, $20). Pungent black fruit aromas, full bodied, soft yet evident tannins, black cherry and raspberry flavors.

2009 Reserve Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley, $25). Cherries and raspberries on nose, soft spice yet peppery on palate.

  To accomplish this, Spencer started with his by-the-glass program.  “It’s a bit easier to convince a guest to try something new if they don’t have to invest in an entire bottle.  The key to using “off” varietals was to get the servers behind the change.  If they are familiar and excited about the new offering, it is fun and easier to sell.  For example, I found a Timorasso made by a small producer in Piemonte named Walter Massa.  It’s a full-bodied white that offers honey-suckle, citrus, nuttiness and tannins.  A great alternative to Chardonnay.”

Spencer has a level 2 certification from the Court of  Master Sommeliers, and the abundance of Spencer’s wine education was gained while travelling through wine regions around the world.  He has explored the vineyards of 70 countries, including Macedonia, Maldova and Montenegro.  “They had wines that blew my mind,” he said.  His quest continues at end of this month with a 3-week trip to Sicily to work the vineyards.  Chef Celestino Drago is from Sicily and the trip might help Spencer better understand his perspective.  “I’m heading to a real back-woodsy winery called Christo di Campobello.  The volcanic soils of Mt. Etna create some incredible and unique wines that should not be ignored.  I found a Nerello Mascalese from Sicily’s Antichi Vinai for our list which has a flavor profile and body similar to that of Pinot Noir.  It’s delicious.”  Spencer noted.

I asked Spencer about how he likes living in in LA and his favorite hang-outs, “It’s great here; the people are really friendly.  People always complain about the traffic but I find it really easy to get where I want to go.”  “Bar Covell is a great spot, especially for wine.  They have 120 wines by the glass there.  Perch on South Hill Street is a really great spot.  And after tasting wine all day the last thing I want is another glass, so I’ll stop by Rivera; they have great cocktails and beer selection.”

  At last year’s Heart’s Delight Wine Auction, friend and fellow wine enthusiast @IanInVirginia won a dinner for 4 at DC’s Tabard Inn.  He graciously invited me and my wife to join them but it took almost a year for two sets of busy parents to coordinate schedules.  Ian is a heck of a guy.  He has thrown some killer parties; always opening as many of his best bottles as we could “responsibly” consume.   Given he was picking up the check for this dinner, I looked forward to bringing some vino. 

Even with a good idea of what Ian likes to drink the choice was tough.  Would one bottle be enough for four people?  What if it’s corked?  Would two bottles be too much?  Is Ian’s wife as big a fan of old-world wine as he is?  Lots to consider, and none of these questions get answered until showtime.  I made a decision, then I changed my mind, and then I changed my mind again, and then one more time less than 2 minutes before leaving the house for the Tabard Inn.

I decided on two bottles.  At a dinner a few years back, Ian brought a ’95 Ch. Clerc-Milon that was totally awesome.  I had a magnum of the ’05 and thought it might be fun to try the next generation.  Since the sample menu on the Tabard Inn website showed a good amount of Italian fare, my other choice was a ’97 Tignanello that had been burning a hole in my wine rack.  Immediately I was nervous the Tig would be past its prime.

We met at the restaurant and all was good.  Ian was feeling conservative because he would have infant duty that night, so we decided to put the magnum under the table and started the meal with a bottle of rosé Champgne instead.  The somm brought a decanter for the Tig, opened her up and poured four glasses.  At the same time I noticed it was getting really hot in the room so I took my jacket off.  The moment of truth, I took a whiff and a sip of the Tig.  According to Wine Spectator, this wine offers focused aromas of blackberries, wood and very ripe fruit.  It is full-bodied, with loads of velvety tannins and a long, long finish, best after 2003.  These notes were not what I was getting.  I felt my stomach drop as I inhaled aromas of wet-dog and brine.  In the mouth was a wine that was all tangled up and confused.  “WTF?” I thought to myself.

I dejectedly swirled my glass at warp speed before sampling it again.  “Please open up.  Please open up. Please open up,” I prayed as Ian reached for his glass to take a look.  “How is it?” He asked before lifting the glass to his nose.  “Might need a few minutes…I’m getting something a little off.”  It was all I could say as I contemplated exhuming the Bordeaux from its resting place beneath the table.  Would my fears play out or would this Tuscan make a super comeback before our steaks came out?  The apps had yet to arrive and while we were munching bread, joking and sipping bubbly, I was enduring a wine anxiety attack. 

As soon as our server placed my first course of tempura-fried sweetbreads in front of me I took another sample.  The nose had changed.  I moved the liquid around to different parts of my mouth.  Front to back, side to side.  I detected notes of…Progress?  It gave me a slight feeling of relief.  The Tig had about another 20 minutes until entrees came to figure itself out.  Maybe it was the Champagne, but fear started to give way to hope.  Ian finally took a sip and expressed satisfaction.

I felt like Bacchus was toying with me.  He knew I was nervous and took advantage just to see me sweat.  By the time the rib-eyes arrived the wine was revving its engines.  The steaks were tender and succulent, and a wonderful pair to this wine that continued to build layers and layers of muscular structure as we ate.  I am normally a gulper, but a little bit of this wine  went a long way and tiny sips offered bursts of spice, tobacco, chocolate and berry.  Aromas of vanilla and mint were prevalent and ushered in loads of soft tannins.  It was on.

Few people are immune to wine anxiety.  I’ve been a student of the game for over a decade now; why do I still get incredibly worked up over something that is supposed to be relaxing and enjoyable?  Just as I felt I was in the clear as we polished off the wine with the last few bites of steak, Ian laughed as he asked me, “Didn’t you promise to save a taste for the sommelier?”

Following that opening chapter of Edwards’ vinous life, she took the reins in Sonoma County’s Matanzas Creek Winery, honing her skills over a ten-year span, ending the stint only to become a freelance consultant for vineyards up and down the Pacific Coast.

It may have been in Oregon that she discovered the key to great Pinot Noir, but it was – and still is – in Sonoma’s Russian River Valley that she shapes gorgeous wines from that confounding grape. Together with husband, Ken Coopersmith, the couple manages five estate vineyards and produces wines that continue to stand out in every Pinot Noir tasting.

But, true to her perfectionist core, Merry resists the temptation to settle for what she has already accomplished. As quoted on her website, “People frequently ask what is the best wine I have ever made. I tell them it’s not made yet!”

With each bottle of Merry Edwards Pinot Noir, I can’t help but nod in agreement with her.

Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast, $36). Smooth yet with a lively accent, rich fruit, intriguing accent of black licorice, soft textures. Score: 88

Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard (Russian River Valley, $54). Dark cherry flavors, light hint of tobacco, sage-like notes, savory accent. Score: 92

Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch (Russian River Valley, $57). Broad palate of dark fruit, accented by mineral notes, pleasingly spicy finish. Score: 92

Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir Meredith Estate (Russian River Valley, $57). Rich ripe red fruit with a berrylike taste, smooth textures, hint of milk chocolate on finish. Score: 93

What is the first thing that comes to mind? Volcanoes? Mobsters? Square pizza?

 How about wine? Though often overshadowed by the big boys of Italy such as the Brunellos, Barolos and Super-Tuscans, the pedigree of wine from this Mediterranean island can be just as compelling. At a recent lunch with winemaker Alessio Planeta, I got a chance to pair a number of southern Italy’s best with dishes from one of DC’s finest northern Italian kitchens at Ristorante Tosca.

Alessio is as humble as they come, and a gracious host who went out of his way to help us understand what makes his wines and the wines of Sicily unique. He poured six specimens, three whites and three reds, which matched up with four delectable courses. The first was a spread of apps that included Prosciutto de Parma with pickled Pioppini mushrooms and a 12-year Balsamic, grilled baby octopus with braised Brussels sprouts and sea urchin sauce, and a salad of radicchio and Bartlett pears with a Goronzola terrine and toasted walnuts.

My first wine was the 2010 Planeta Carricante. It is a native varietal that comes from their vineyards near Mount Etna. According to Alessio, Carricante’s structure is similar to the wines of Alsace, and an ideal 5-7 year cellaring candidate. The 2010 was tart at first but softened nicely over the course of an hour, offering aromas of green apple, flowers and great acidity. Next was the 2009 Cometa Fiano, which was rich and fat with lots of potential. There was ample slate and chalk on the nose, which comes from the chalky soils near Planeta’s first winery, Ulmo. The wine’s name is derived from the family crest signifying the “surprise of the southwest comet.” No oak is used, resulting in an incredibly pure example of a full-bodied white.

The third white, the 2009 Chardonnay, had a very oaky nose but a fresh balance of oak and fruit in the mouth. It is aged for ten months in 225-liter French oak barrels prior to bottling, and was a great pair to the pasta course of Tortelli filled with Robiola cheese and black truffle with leeks in a Porcini mushroom sauce. Equally good with that dish was the first red wine of the day, a 2010 Cerasuolo di Vittoria. Vittoria is Sicily’s only D.O.C.G. and the wine is named for it’s cherry-red color. Made of Nero d’Avola and Frappato grapes grown in sandy soils near the shore, it was smokey with hints of chocolate and strawberry. The style reminded me of a Cru Beaujolais and did not overpower the texture of the pasta or the flavor of the black truffles.

The next two reds were big, worthy opponents to the pancetta-wrapped beef tenderloin drenched in Chef Massimo Fabbri’s succulent oxtail sauce. The 2009 Dorilli Cerasuolo de Vittoria Classico D.O.C.G. is blended from the same varietals as the privious red, but all from the single vineyard named after the nearby Dorilli river. Alessio referred to the wine as the “Pinot Noir” of Sicily. It had a complex fruity character similar to a high-end Russian River Pinot, but it was not as spicy. If I had to pick a favorite of the afternoon, this wine was it by just a slight margin over the final wine, the 2007 Santa Cecilia Nero d’Avola. Alessio described this as his “Cru” – his effort to make the best Nero possible. “The vineyard allows the ability to make a serious wine, one that is more complex with great potential to age,” said Alessio. The wine is made at one of Planeta’s newest wineries, Contrada Buonivini. The family thought the land was so delightfully pure they preserved it by building an “invisible winery” completely underground. The wine had an impressive structure and a flavor profile that touched all areas of the mouth. I think it is one of those bottles that will be thought -provoking after ten years of cellaring.

Planeta’s wines are impressive examples of a wine region that should not be overlooked. It is evident that Alessio has a strong appreciation for the unique terroir expressed in the wines of his island, and is intent on preserving the native varietals that grow in his soils.

The tasting was hosted by Palm Bay International, which imports the wines of Planeta.

Just to make sure I my critique was objective I ran out to the market and picked up another popular Argentinan Malbec at the same price.  It was ghastly compared to the Caminada.  Aged for a short time (4 months) in French oak, the wine offers gobs of cherry, plum and vanilla in both the nose twice.

When your sweetheart asks you about the wine, you can say it was named after the simple but key step in the Tango.  The rest of the evening is up to you.

From 1974 to 1990, he was at the helm at Chateau St. Jean in Sonoma County, crafting wines that would lay the groundwork for decades of success at that establishment. Nearing the end of his tenure there, Dick and his wife Alis founded Arrowood Winery in 1986, making wines in a cozy setting in the foothills of Sonoma County.

They dedicated their time to producing wines that carried Dick Arrowood’s personal touch, soft textures, intense flavors, and supple finish. Each sip a mouthful; each glass a banquet.

Arrowood remained with that enterprise until June 2010 when he left the winemaking at his eponymous winery to Heidi von der Mehden and began another venture. This time, like the previous two, it is in Sonoma County and is called Amapola Creek, after the creek that runs through the property.

  The vineyards are on Mayacamas Mountains and are farmed organically by famed vineyard manager Phil Coturri. True to his roots, Arrowood specializes in Cabernet Sauvignon, a sumptuous wine that is hard to put down. But in a nod to his wife and constant partner, he’s created another bottling called Cuvée Alis, a blend of syrah and grenache. They also produce Zinfandel from the Monte Rosso vineyard, a site that has long been extolled by wine lovers for the depth and concentration of the wines it yields.

I haven’t tasted the Syrah, Zinfandel, or Cuvée Alis, but I recently had the opportunity to taste the Amapola Creek 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. I have to say I wasn’t stunned – but that’s because I’ve come to expect so much from Dick Arrowood. And, once again, he has lived up to the Olympian standards he set when he first set foot in Sonoma County. Stunned, surprised? No. Infatuated? Yes.

Notes: Amapola Creek 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon ($70). Ebulliently fruity and forward, yet elegant and refined. Flavors tend toward black cherries and plums, with hints of tobacco and cassis. A vein of toast and roasted coffee bean threads through the palate, wrapped in velvety smooth textures.

In fact, Albariño – called Alvarinho in Portugal – is a wonderful complement to a wide range of foods. With its focus on peach and nectarine flavors, accented by a bit of citric acidity, the wine balances zest with texture to serve up a medium-bodied, long-flavored wine. Usually it is slightly on the sweet side, but this helps deliver fullness of flavor when matched against spicy foods.

Starting with seafood, Albariño is best with steamed shellfish or broiled spine fish, although it merits attention with the better versions of ceviche. And it has enough body to serve alongside fish soup or cioppino.

But Albariño also pairs well with chicken – especially those with cream sauces or accented by herbs – and pasta dishes with clam sauce or mushroom-based sauces.

In the restaurant scene, you should find excellent examples of Albariño in establishments like Taberno del Alabardero, La Tasca, and Jaleo, but the wine is also likely to appear on well-drawn wine lists in wine-savvy restaurants, like Grapeseed, Tallula, and Cork. If it’s not there, ask – no, demand – and see how your favorite watering hole reacts to your new discovery.

Meanwhile, here are some Albariños for you to try on your own – with or without preparing a complete Spanish meal as accompaniment. All are from Rias Biaxas, in the northwestern region of Galicia.

  Condes de Albarei 2010 -Apricot and peach on nose, vibrantly fruity

Don Olegario 2010 – Floral, fruity, bright white peach and nectarine flavors

Mar de Frades 2010 – Refreshing touch of acidity to add sparkle to a forward-fruity wine

Marques d Vizhoja Torre la Moreira 2010 – Bright, fresh, a bit more reserved than other Albariños

Pazo Señorans 2010 – Unctuous and smooth, richer in texture than other Albariños

Robaliño 2010 – Butter, hazelnut and flowers on nose, supple textures with vein of acidity

Santiago Ruiz 2010 – White peach, hint of pineapple on nose and palate