Piero Antinori of the famous Tuscan winemaking house of the same name knows this perhaps better than anyone. His wines, elegant in the glass and as brilliantly colored as a Tintoretto painting, are – nevertheless – best enjoyed as an accompaniment to a fine meal.

So it makes sense that when he brought his family’s 600-year history of winemaking to California, he would want to make food-friendly wines for Americans too. In the 1980s, he bought land on the summit of Atlas Peak in Napa Valley, with spectacular views of the valley below and the sprawling vineyards that supply the raw material for his new wines. The winery was originally named after the land, Atlas Peak, but Antinori recently reconfigured the estate and renamed it Antica, a fact reported earlier on WeeklyWinePick.com.

Under the watchful eye of Marchese Antinori, and constant oversight by Glenn Salva, Antica produces some of the richest and approachable Cabernets in the Napa Valley. We met at Circa (3010 Clarendon Boulevard, Arlington, 703-522-3010) and sampled a range of vintages of the Cabernet accompanied by a serving of Wild Mushroom Ravioli. The ravioli were served with artichoke hearts, cremini mushrooms, and beurre noisette, and topped with herbs and goat cheese. The complexity of the flavors, spikes that raised the interest of the savory mushroom ravioli beneath, begged for a similarly complex red wine.

With Salva’s usual grace and patience, he explained not only the history of the estate but the vintage conditions of each of the wines we sampled. There was the perfectly aged 2004 Antica Cabernet Sauvignon, with scents of currant, plum, and dark fruit. A supple though austere wine braced by tannins evidently softened by age.

The 2005 Cab was richer and more complex, and opened with dark chocolate and tobacco aromas, with flavors of figs, black cherry and plum over ripe tannins. The 2006 Cab was a bit tangier and more puckery than the refined 2004 and 2005, demonstrating the impact of even a single year of additional aging on the mouthfeel of such a rich wine. Still, its black fruit flavors and vivacious acidity ensured that it will be a wine to return to later.

The 2007 Cab was exotically aromatic and carried hints of Eastern spices on the nose. With terrific intensity and multiple layers, this was my favorite of the afternoon. The big fruit and explosive approach shows evidence of future star-quality. The 2008 was also a tremendous wine, with chocolate and roasted coffee bean aromas, tinged by hints of earth and spice, with a soft finish.

The 2009 Cab, the vintage currently on the market (along with some remainders of the 2008), has heavenly aromas of violets and red fruit, featuring blueberry and black cherry flavors on a big, young frame.

With Antinori’s vision and Salva’s management of wine at Antica, the property will enjoy continued success and the buyer will enjoy many vintages of fine Cabernet Sauvignon.

We deserve that Beringer Vineyard Private Reserve Cabernet ($125) or Paul Hobbs Beckstoffer Cab ($150) after a day like this. Right?

(Forget the Château Margaux ($850); you didn’t work that hard.)

Then sanity sets in – - oh, I could wax Shakespearean on how sanity deprives us of satisfying our primal desires. Prying our fingers off that exquisite $$$ bottle of Cabernet, we steer our desires – and our wallets – elsewhere.

Fortunately, the same wine world that brought us the “only-on-my-50th-birthday” wines has also released a veritable vinous gusher of affordable Cabs that are absolutely delightful. Here is a short list to prove that point.

(Not all the vintages shown below are current, these are based solely on what I’ve tasted lately. However all houses are respectable producers with consistent results, and new vintages would be expected to uphold their standard of quality.)

Ad Lib 2007 Mix Master Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot (Margaret River, West Australia, $17). Pleasant and approachable, rewards the palate with lightly infused red fruit and soft acidity.

Bianchi 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles, $19). Deep sensuous aromas of earth, toast, and black fruit; soft textures, black cherry, plum, and raspberry, touch of cassis on finish.

Bodega Septima 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Argentina, $12). Soft and luscious on texture, black fruit flavors.

Bortoluzzi 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Venezia Giulia, $19). Rich, robust, black fruit flavors with a silky touch of spice, proof that Italians can make wonderful red wines even with French grapes.

Casillero del Diablo 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (Chile, $11). Medium weight and quaffable, this Cab is meant to please the palate and offer sumptuous accompaniment for the meal.

Château Tanunda 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Barossa (Barossa, Australia, $18). Rich and deeply textured, features black fruit and truffles.

Entwine 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (California, $13). Richly textured and fruity, the aromas of this wine leap from the glass and “entwine” your senses. Very well made.

Greg Norman 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (North Coast, $15). Pungent, black cherry aromas and flavors, hint of cassis.

Horse Heaven Hills 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Washington, $15). Deep dark red, flavors of raspberry, black cherry, and plum, slight hint of cassis, full body.

Kenwood 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County, $18). Fresh fruit made heavenly with the whiff of cedar and tobacco smoke.

Leese-Fitch 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (California, $12). Silky smooth, sumptuous red fruit flavors, great value.

Liberty School 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles, $12). Remarkably tasty for a $12 wine; ripe red fruit, firm but soft tannins, forward structure.

Louis M. Martini 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County, $17). Deep scents of dark fruit, earth and oak, coffee, cocoa, and black cherries on palate, soft tannins, medium length.

Sledgehammer 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (North Coast, $15). Impressive for a $15 wine, dark fruit, nice texture.

Souverain 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley, $17). Aromas of wet earth and oak, black cherry, plums on nose, currants, black cherry, soft textures, full body.

Three Sticks 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley, $65). Black coffee and chocolate aromas, soft approach, black cherry, plums, currant, tobacco leaf, slight mocha accent.

  At last year’s Heart’s Delight Wine Auction, friend and fellow wine enthusiast @IanInVirginia won a dinner for 4 at DC’s Tabard Inn.  He graciously invited me and my wife to join them but it took almost a year for two sets of busy parents to coordinate schedules.  Ian is a heck of a guy.  He has thrown some killer parties; always opening as many of his best bottles as we could “responsibly” consume.   Given he was picking up the check for this dinner, I looked forward to bringing some vino. 

Even with a good idea of what Ian likes to drink the choice was tough.  Would one bottle be enough for four people?  What if it’s corked?  Would two bottles be too much?  Is Ian’s wife as big a fan of old-world wine as he is?  Lots to consider, and none of these questions get answered until showtime.  I made a decision, then I changed my mind, and then I changed my mind again, and then one more time less than 2 minutes before leaving the house for the Tabard Inn.

I decided on two bottles.  At a dinner a few years back, Ian brought a ’95 Ch. Clerc-Milon that was totally awesome.  I had a magnum of the ’05 and thought it might be fun to try the next generation.  Since the sample menu on the Tabard Inn website showed a good amount of Italian fare, my other choice was a ’97 Tignanello that had been burning a hole in my wine rack.  Immediately I was nervous the Tig would be past its prime.

We met at the restaurant and all was good.  Ian was feeling conservative because he would have infant duty that night, so we decided to put the magnum under the table and started the meal with a bottle of rosé Champgne instead.  The somm brought a decanter for the Tig, opened her up and poured four glasses.  At the same time I noticed it was getting really hot in the room so I took my jacket off.  The moment of truth, I took a whiff and a sip of the Tig.  According to Wine Spectator, this wine offers focused aromas of blackberries, wood and very ripe fruit.  It is full-bodied, with loads of velvety tannins and a long, long finish, best after 2003.  These notes were not what I was getting.  I felt my stomach drop as I inhaled aromas of wet-dog and brine.  In the mouth was a wine that was all tangled up and confused.  “WTF?” I thought to myself.

I dejectedly swirled my glass at warp speed before sampling it again.  “Please open up.  Please open up. Please open up,” I prayed as Ian reached for his glass to take a look.  “How is it?” He asked before lifting the glass to his nose.  “Might need a few minutes…I’m getting something a little off.”  It was all I could say as I contemplated exhuming the Bordeaux from its resting place beneath the table.  Would my fears play out or would this Tuscan make a super comeback before our steaks came out?  The apps had yet to arrive and while we were munching bread, joking and sipping bubbly, I was enduring a wine anxiety attack. 

As soon as our server placed my first course of tempura-fried sweetbreads in front of me I took another sample.  The nose had changed.  I moved the liquid around to different parts of my mouth.  Front to back, side to side.  I detected notes of…Progress?  It gave me a slight feeling of relief.  The Tig had about another 20 minutes until entrees came to figure itself out.  Maybe it was the Champagne, but fear started to give way to hope.  Ian finally took a sip and expressed satisfaction.

I felt like Bacchus was toying with me.  He knew I was nervous and took advantage just to see me sweat.  By the time the rib-eyes arrived the wine was revving its engines.  The steaks were tender and succulent, and a wonderful pair to this wine that continued to build layers and layers of muscular structure as we ate.  I am normally a gulper, but a little bit of this wine  went a long way and tiny sips offered bursts of spice, tobacco, chocolate and berry.  Aromas of vanilla and mint were prevalent and ushered in loads of soft tannins.  It was on.

Few people are immune to wine anxiety.  I’ve been a student of the game for over a decade now; why do I still get incredibly worked up over something that is supposed to be relaxing and enjoyable?  Just as I felt I was in the clear as we polished off the wine with the last few bites of steak, Ian laughed as he asked me, “Didn’t you promise to save a taste for the sommelier?”

Following that opening chapter of Edwards’ vinous life, she took the reins in Sonoma County’s Matanzas Creek Winery, honing her skills over a ten-year span, ending the stint only to become a freelance consultant for vineyards up and down the Pacific Coast.

It may have been in Oregon that she discovered the key to great Pinot Noir, but it was – and still is – in Sonoma’s Russian River Valley that she shapes gorgeous wines from that confounding grape. Together with husband, Ken Coopersmith, the couple manages five estate vineyards and produces wines that continue to stand out in every Pinot Noir tasting.

But, true to her perfectionist core, Merry resists the temptation to settle for what she has already accomplished. As quoted on her website, “People frequently ask what is the best wine I have ever made. I tell them it’s not made yet!”

With each bottle of Merry Edwards Pinot Noir, I can’t help but nod in agreement with her.

Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast, $36). Smooth yet with a lively accent, rich fruit, intriguing accent of black licorice, soft textures. Score: 88

Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard (Russian River Valley, $54). Dark cherry flavors, light hint of tobacco, sage-like notes, savory accent. Score: 92

Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch (Russian River Valley, $57). Broad palate of dark fruit, accented by mineral notes, pleasingly spicy finish. Score: 92

Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir Meredith Estate (Russian River Valley, $57). Rich ripe red fruit with a berrylike taste, smooth textures, hint of milk chocolate on finish. Score: 93

From 1974 to 1990, he was at the helm at Chateau St. Jean in Sonoma County, crafting wines that would lay the groundwork for decades of success at that establishment. Nearing the end of his tenure there, Dick and his wife Alis founded Arrowood Winery in 1986, making wines in a cozy setting in the foothills of Sonoma County.

They dedicated their time to producing wines that carried Dick Arrowood’s personal touch, soft textures, intense flavors, and supple finish. Each sip a mouthful; each glass a banquet.

Arrowood remained with that enterprise until June 2010 when he left the winemaking at his eponymous winery to Heidi von der Mehden and began another venture. This time, like the previous two, it is in Sonoma County and is called Amapola Creek, after the creek that runs through the property.

  The vineyards are on Mayacamas Mountains and are farmed organically by famed vineyard manager Phil Coturri. True to his roots, Arrowood specializes in Cabernet Sauvignon, a sumptuous wine that is hard to put down. But in a nod to his wife and constant partner, he’s created another bottling called Cuvée Alis, a blend of syrah and grenache. They also produce Zinfandel from the Monte Rosso vineyard, a site that has long been extolled by wine lovers for the depth and concentration of the wines it yields.

I haven’t tasted the Syrah, Zinfandel, or Cuvée Alis, but I recently had the opportunity to taste the Amapola Creek 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. I have to say I wasn’t stunned – but that’s because I’ve come to expect so much from Dick Arrowood. And, once again, he has lived up to the Olympian standards he set when he first set foot in Sonoma County. Stunned, surprised? No. Infatuated? Yes.

Notes: Amapola Creek 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon ($70). Ebulliently fruity and forward, yet elegant and refined. Flavors tend toward black cherries and plums, with hints of tobacco and cassis. A vein of toast and roasted coffee bean threads through the palate, wrapped in velvety smooth textures.

In fact, Albariño – called Alvarinho in Portugal – is a wonderful complement to a wide range of foods. With its focus on peach and nectarine flavors, accented by a bit of citric acidity, the wine balances zest with texture to serve up a medium-bodied, long-flavored wine. Usually it is slightly on the sweet side, but this helps deliver fullness of flavor when matched against spicy foods.

Starting with seafood, Albariño is best with steamed shellfish or broiled spine fish, although it merits attention with the better versions of ceviche. And it has enough body to serve alongside fish soup or cioppino.

But Albariño also pairs well with chicken – especially those with cream sauces or accented by herbs – and pasta dishes with clam sauce or mushroom-based sauces.

In the restaurant scene, you should find excellent examples of Albariño in establishments like Taberno del Alabardero, La Tasca, and Jaleo, but the wine is also likely to appear on well-drawn wine lists in wine-savvy restaurants, like Grapeseed, Tallula, and Cork. If it’s not there, ask – no, demand – and see how your favorite watering hole reacts to your new discovery.

Meanwhile, here are some Albariños for you to try on your own – with or without preparing a complete Spanish meal as accompaniment. All are from Rias Biaxas, in the northwestern region of Galicia.

  Condes de Albarei 2010 -Apricot and peach on nose, vibrantly fruity

Don Olegario 2010 – Floral, fruity, bright white peach and nectarine flavors

Mar de Frades 2010 – Refreshing touch of acidity to add sparkle to a forward-fruity wine

Marques d Vizhoja Torre la Moreira 2010 – Bright, fresh, a bit more reserved than other Albariños

Pazo Señorans 2010 – Unctuous and smooth, richer in texture than other Albariños

Robaliño 2010 – Butter, hazelnut and flowers on nose, supple textures with vein of acidity

Santiago Ruiz 2010 – White peach, hint of pineapple on nose and palate

Well, maybe some of it is, and that’s the reason this reasoning has gotten traction. But so many quality Merlots are left out of the conversation. Beringer’s Merlots have been stupendous for years, especially the Bancroft Ranch. Pahlmeyer and Pride have Merlots that easily stand above the crowd. Etude’s bottlings are age-worthy, and Shafer Merlots – earlier to mature – provide instant gratification. I’d push any Pinot Noir off the table to make way for a Château St. Jean Merlot, and Joe Cafaro still makes Merlots that sing.

Then there’s Duckhorn, Havens, Keenan, St. Francis, Château Ste. Michelle, and Matanzas Creek. In fact, during an extensive tasting of Merlots for a cover story in Wine News a few years back, I concluded that almost any Merlot from the cooler climes of Carneros would be a special treat.

Through the years, Merlot styles have changed and, after the initial boom-years in the 1990s, better terroir has been chosen for plantings. Below are a few recent tasting notes that might offer a primer on the grape.

  Beringer 2008 (Napa Valley, $21). A rich ruby red, with coffee and licorice aromas hosting hints on dark berries and milk chocolate, forward flavors and nicely balanced. Score: 87

Beringer 2006 Howell Mountain Bancroft Ranch (Napa Valley, $75) Up-front aromas of coffee and dark chocolate, with latent dark berry aromas, soft tannins, sumptuous red fruit, and wonderfully balanced. Score: 93

Charles Krug 2008 (Napa Valley, $24). Deep and dense in color and aroma, black cherry and petrol like Pomerol, hefty body, rich textured and dense fruit flavors. Score: 91

Castello di Gabbiano 2007 Alleanza (Tuscany, $35). Soft red fruit, rich body, tangy acidity, dry impression but fruity finish. Score: 90

Columbia Crest 2007 Reserve (Columbia Valley $30). Delicate aromas but pungent flavors. Score: 88

http://www.pridewines.com/content/default1421.html

White wine makers finally realized that they were being scoffed at and decided to ramp up the quality to retake their market share. And red wine drinkers who, for years, tut-tutted the shallow whites as useless suddenly discovered the joys of a lightly chilled and briskly acidic wine as a come-hither invitation to the delights of the table.

Chardonnay was good, but had already given birth to an anti- market. Dubbed ABC wine, it referred to wine drinkers looking for “anything but Chardonnay.” There was a dalliance with Viognier and Riesling, and perennial flirtations with exotic Old World wines like Torrontes, Marsanne, Aligoté, and Albariño, but as aperitif wines go, we were looking for brisk, lively wines that tantalized the palate and prepared us for the meal.

Enter Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris. Not the PGs of years past, wines that lacked finish and were hard to distinguish from the water glass standing next to it. PGs of today boast a panoply of flavors, citrus overtones, balance, and – more so in the case of Pinot Gris – supple textures.

  I would still choose a Pinot Grigio for a pre-prandial drink. Its racy flavors and gulpability are perfect for the first drink of the evening. And I would pick Pinot Gris, with its fuller mouthfeel and longer impression as the wine to serve with food. But both have their place.

Banfi 2010 Le Rime Pinot Grigio (Tuscany, $9). Refreshing and bright, with lemony acidity.

Castello di Gabbiano 2010 Pinot Grigio (Tuscany, $8).  Scents of lemon zest and lime come first, followed by a zesty, bright fruity wine with highlights of citrus.

Erath 2009 Pinot Gris (Oregon, $14). Silky smooth, luscious white peach and pear flavors yet with a tingling threat of acidity to hold it all together.

Kumeu River 2009 Pinot Gris (Auckland, New Zealand, $21). Peach and vanilla on the nose, followed by the rich flavors of ripe peach and tropical fruit. The slightly oily hint to the texture bodes well and shows a full-bodied wine to pair well with cream-based dishes.

Ponzi 2010 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley, $15). Zesty and refreshing, hint of lime and floral accents on nose, main theme of lime on palate, with citrus acidity bracing the entire impression.

Santa Cristina 2010 Pinot Grigio (Sicily, $16). Crisp bright fruit aromas with a floral hint, slight apple and citrus flavors with touch of orange on finish.

WillaKenzie 2010 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley, $21).  Crisp, fresh, lively acidity, bright pear and crisp apple flavors, touch of pineapple on finish.

Kenny’s latest batch of wines is another example of his consistent quality.  All of them come from fruit grown on a 100 acre hillside vineyard in Alexander Valley, which is covered with blue stones and serpentine boulders.  He bottles the wines at three quality levels.  The entry level Baby Blue is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc, Syrah, Merlot, and Malbec.  It is truly a wine for everyone; a special occasion bottle for those on a budget or a daily drinker for the collector-types.  It has that soft richness to it that is commonly found in ultra-premium Napa Cabernets that have cellared for 10 or so years.

Kenny’s flagship Cabernets are good candidates for such cellaring.  The elegance of these complex and powerful reds needs time to emerge.  I brought the 2008 and 2009 to a dinner party full of wine-savvy friends and they were a big hit, though one person expressed regret that I was not able to bring vintages from earlier in the decade so that he could get a real sense of the wine’s potential.   I reminded him that with wine, good things come to those who wait.

It’s hard to give up on summer, even when Mother Nature threatens another plague or two before nightfall.

In the spirit of summer, before we forsake the patio for the eat-in kitchen, let’s toast the best days and shake our fist at the skies. And I can think of no better wine than the spicy, spirited flavors of a hearty red Zinfandel.

Forget the stories of its origins in southern Italy, or its sojourn in Croatia and Hungary. Zinfandel is as American as apple pie and the stars and bars. Don’t let the summer fade without pulling the cork from a bottle or two. Here are some suggestions.

  Grgich Hills 2008 Zinfandel (NapaValley, $35). Scented with coffee and tobacco leaf, rich succulent flavors and light spice, even a slightly fruity finish. A simply superb wine.

Paul Dolan 2009 Zinfandel (Mendocino County, $25). A standard-bearer for ol’ time Zinfandel, with flavors of raspberry and chocolate accented with pepper and brown spice.

Plungerhead 2009 Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi, $16). Deep red color, pungent with full-blown fruit, dark cherry and raspberry, a touch of white pepper on finish.

Seghesio 2009 Zinfandel (Sonoma County, $24). Deep black cherry and blackberry aromas, chewy and highly structured, layers of ripe red fruit and polished tannins, hint of coffee on finish. A perennially superb wine.

Seghesio 2009 Zinfandel Home Ranch (Alexander Valley, $38). Scents of plums and black currants, followed by flavors of black cherry, plums, and sweet tobacco, with lively tannins but soft finish.

Sledgehammer 2008 Zinfandel (North Coast, $15). Red fruit aromas and flavors, medium body, tart finish.