Wines that go with steakhouse food also have a long tradition. Cabernet Sauvignon, a bold yet silky wine that can stand up to steak, is an obvious first choice. Merlot is sometimes too soft for the matchup, but some from Carneros and Napa Valley have the power and presence to match with steak. A perennial favorite of mine is the Beringer Howell Mountain Merlot from Bancroft Ranch.

Pinot Noir – if rich enough and textured enough – should be a prime choice next to a hearty steak. I had the opportunity to taste through Aaron Walker’s wines from Pali Wine Company and size them up next to a filet mignon at Morton’s in Crystal City (1750 Crystal Drive, Arlington).

We savored four Pinot Noirs (reviewed below) but the Pali 2008 Durell Vineyard edged out the other Pali Pinots with the filet mignon. The succulent aromas and tender textures of the meat might have been overwhelmed by a robust Cabernet so the silkier mouthfeel and broad palate impression of Walker’s Pinot Noir were a perfect match.

Heads up: Morton’s did not carry these wines as of the night of the tasting, but they were introduced to the wines that afternoon. The wines are in local wine stores, so try them first then call Morton’s and ask why they’re not already on the wine list.

  Pali 2008 Durell Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast, $44). Scents of coffee, cola, and blueberry, this silky wine is rich and full-bodied, with a hint of herbs.

Pali 2008 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley, $44). Black cherry, cola on nose; soft textures, broad palate impression.

Pali 2008 Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Rita Hills, $44). Black tea aromas with a hint of black cherry and tobacco; soft fruit flavors with slight but evident tannins.

Pali 2007 Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley, $44). Fragrant with violets and cinnamon; flavors tend toward cherry and dark chocolate.

John suggested Peay Vineyards “La Bruma” Syrah, Sonoma Coast.  The wine is deep purple and offers dark berries and fig on the nose.  The wine is medium-bodied, and tightly wound at first so it would benefit from decanting.  Bacon fat, berry and graphite are ushered in by supple tannins.

John has worked side-by-side with James Beard Award-winning chef Nancy Oakes for 14 years.  ”At Boulevard I take a global view of wine, offering a little bit of everything.  Our wines by the glass are chosen to fit snugly with food, and our bottle list is readable, not daunting,” said John.

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I was especially impressed with the 2007 Plummer Vineyard Petite Sirah.  One word best describes it:  Viscosity.  This wine is pitch black; seemingly impenetrable.  I anticipated major intensity from this wine, but was pleasantly surprised by suppleness and elegance.  Weighty but not meaty, the wine offered ample flavors of wild blueberry and currant.  Plummer Vineyard is owned by Bianchi Winery’s neighboor.  Bianchi’s winemaker, Tom Lane, buys fruit for his “Signature Selection” wines from them and other reputable growers.  All of the fruit that goes into the winery’s “Heritage Selection” wines is grown on their property in Paso Robles.  Depending onthe vintage, the wine will always be close to 100% Petite Sirah will spend between 19-30 months in oak.

Despite it being the start of the busiest time of year in wine country, Tom Lane spent half an hour with me on the phone enlightening me about the people and process behind the wines.  Bianchi grows Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah on 28 acres surrounding the winery.  They buy fruit from growers they have strong relationships with to craft white and additional  red wines from varietals such as Refosco and Sangiovese.  Asked to briefly summarize his winemaking philosophy, Tom said he endeavors to “accentuate the grape first, then layer in other qualities.”  This statement rang true in the wines I sampled.  Tom aims to yeild 3.5-4 tons of fruit per acre, thinning heavily before veraison (the onset of ripening).  This, combined with the use of soil moisture monitors and vertical shoot positioning trellis systems to increase air flow around the fruit, ensure each berry gets the royal treatment.

So, quick, let’s drink them up while the sun still shines. And I can’t think of a more summer-like white than Pinot Grigio. Long thought to be an insipid Italian excuse for white wine, the new styles are attracting more attention with their focus on bright fruit, tingly acidity, and citrus accents.

Pairing Pinot Grigio with summer fare – especially the grilled delights that we cling to as the summer sun sets – is quite easy given the wine’s versatility. The wine easily goes with pork, fowl, and seafood, fresh vegetables and steamed shellfish, and a long list of other food that is best served in the heat of the backyard barbecue.

In the past, I’ve paired it with a range of warm weather dishes, like tomato mozzarella salad, vinegar-based salad dressings, white pizza, salad with apples and nuts, sweet and spicy couscous, lemon-dill seafood salad, and assorted grilled seafood.

The key to appreciating Pinot Grigio is not to mistake it for a serious wine. It’s pleasant and fruity, it’s usually off-dry although some incarnations are finished “soft,” which is to say a tiny bit sweet, and it is laced with just enough acidity to give it structure and backbone – at least the new releases are.

So here are some to consider:

Castello di Gabbiano 2008 Pinot Grigio (Venezia, $10). Easy and light. Very refreshing; blended with a bit of garganega and chardonnay. Great match for summer food.

Villa Russiz 2007 Pinot Grigio (Collio, $34). Green apple, citrusy accent, zippy acidity, broad flavors, very refreshing, elegant beyond other PGs.

Vino dei Fratelli 2009 Pinot Grigio (Venezia, $11). Light, fresh, and appealing. Refreshing citrusy palate with lemon zest accents.

After engaging me with a few questions about which styles of wine I preferred, and offering a few optional suggestions, Gino settled on what he described as “one of the best values in Pinot Noir” he has seen in awhile, a wine from Fiddlehead Cellars.  ”Fiddlestix is nestled between Sanford and Sea Smoke (vineyards), and is cultivated by stewards who stress biodynamic practices.”  The wine is named after the mile marker (728) on Santa Rosa Road in Santa Rita Hills, and offers elegant layers of cherry and white pepper on the palate.

At Delicias, Gino endeavors to let taste be the guide to his guests’ wine choices.  To that end, he priced all of his by the glass offerings the same, and includes such quality producers as Flowers Winery.  In addition to an extensive list of bottles, he has implemented a creative wine flight program that allows guests to compare old world versus new word wines, challenge themselves by evaluating his selections blind, and custom flights built to one’s specific tastes.

If you have the pleasure of dining at Delicias, don’t be surprised if Gino announces to the entire dining room his need for assistance evaluating a new bottle, and pouring a taste for you and everyone else in the room.  Your honest feedback will be welcome!

Sommelier Gino Campbell in the Cellar of Delicias.

Photo Credit: Ranch & Coast

“As Prima specializes in Italian food, my first instinct is to recommend the best Italian wine to pair with your selection.  Because of the nice, earthy richness of the risotto, try the Ceretto “Zorchero” Barolo.  It is a smooth and rounded Nebbiolo; well-balanced with moderate tannins and acidity.  For your sea bass, we have a nice Italian white, a Fiano di Avellino from Pietracupa.  If you want to bridge a liking for Sauvignon Blanc to an Italian wine, this varietal is not super fruity, has good acidity and a good body,” remarked Angela.

Sommelier Angela Luciano

Prima has been pleasing diners in Walnut Creek for over 30 years.  The restaurant has an extensive collection of bottles and a diverse by-the-glass program, earning it a Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence.  Angela recently took over the sommelier duties after getting her start at Prima 3 years ago as a server.   “We strive to be a wine destination, and our goal of quality service to our guests is attained by educating our staff,” said Angela.

Stonehouse Dining Room

The Stonehouse is a small and secluded restaurant and the winner of numerous awards, including Wine Spectator’s Best of Award of Excellence.  Jerry has overseen the wine there for nearly five years, since the historic property completed an extensive (and expensive) renovation.  He noted that the majority of visitors and locals alike want to drink local wines, so Jerry keeps his inventory about half domestic and half imported.  Jerry also enjoys offering a few exclusive wines by the glass, “I always pour Krug Grand Cuvée by the glass, and currently we’re pouring glasses of 2003 Chateau D”Yquem.”

Solomon Hills

Salmon is a perfect case in point. Whether grilled, baked, or marinated and sautéed, this fish makes a perfect case for red wine, particularly a luscious Pinot Noir from America’s west coast. And when the salmon is pepper-encrusted or served with a spice-infused sauce, the marriage of red wine with fish is complete.

Try the following recipe, then pour a glass of one of the recommended Pinot Noirs and see what you think.

Make a marinade of 1 teaspoon of sesame oil, 3 tablespoons of white wine, 3 tablespoons of soy sauce, and 2 tablespoons of dark brown sugar. Put salmon steaks in a wide flat casserole dish, pour the marinade over it and lest rest in the refrigerator for up to four hours, turning the steaks occasionally. Heat the grill, oil the rack, then grill the salmon. Reduce the remaining marinade in a saucepan by one-half. When the salmon is finished, pour the marinade over the steaks and serve.

Recommended Pinot Noirs:
Davis Bynum 2007 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley, $35) Full bodied and forward, black cherry and mocha flavors.

Four Graces 2006 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley, $27). Deep, sensuous aromas of red fruit and earth, a bit of smoke on palate.

MacMurray 2007 Pinot Noir (Central Coast, $20). Blackberries on nose and palate, delicate yet ample.

Merry Edwards 2007 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast, $36). Sumptuous and smooth, flavors of cranberry, black cherry, and plum.

Merry Edwards 2006 Pinot Noir Meredith Estate (Russian River Valley, $54). Rich and full-bodied, subtle accents and finishing notes.

Ponzi 2007 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley, $35). Soft fruit flavors, juicy, touch of black pepper on finish.

Sequana 2007 Pinot Noir Sundawg Ridge Vineyards (Russian River Valley, $50). Sumptuous and richly textured.

Taz 2006 Pinot Noir Fiddlestix Vineyard (Santa Rita Hills, $35). Spicy, jazzy plum and red cherry flavors.

Wild Earth 2006 Pinot Noir (Central Otago, NZ, $30). Aromatic and forward, taste of fresh fruit, slightly spiced.

Dick Rosano has offered his insights on wine in many publications and radio shows, and is a regular contributor to WeeklyWinePick.com.

The Firehouse is a Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence winner.  Mario said his wine program has historically focused on wines of California, but currently has a good mix from all regions of the world, especially Spain and Australia.  Join them on July 30 when they host Erin Green, winemaker at Pahlmayer, for a 6-course winemakers dinner.

I also asked Mario about his all-time favorite wine and the best he’s had recently for around $10.  He loves almost any rosé from Provence: “For $7 or $8 you can pour it in a carafe and have a bunch of friends over and thats all you need.”  His fondest wine memories come from the wines of Blain-Gagnard, which he drank from the barrel at the winemaker’s home in Cote d”Or.