Following that opening chapter of Edwards’ vinous life, she took the reins in Sonoma County’s Matanzas Creek Winery, honing her skills over a ten-year span, ending the stint only to become a freelance consultant for vineyards up and down the Pacific Coast.

It may have been in Oregon that she discovered the key to great Pinot Noir, but it was – and still is – in Sonoma’s Russian River Valley that she shapes gorgeous wines from that confounding grape. Together with husband, Ken Coopersmith, the couple manages five estate vineyards and produces wines that continue to stand out in every Pinot Noir tasting.

But, true to her perfectionist core, Merry resists the temptation to settle for what she has already accomplished. As quoted on her website, “People frequently ask what is the best wine I have ever made. I tell them it’s not made yet!”

With each bottle of Merry Edwards Pinot Noir, I can’t help but nod in agreement with her.

Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast, $36). Smooth yet with a lively accent, rich fruit, intriguing accent of black licorice, soft textures. Score: 88

Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard (Russian River Valley, $54). Dark cherry flavors, light hint of tobacco, sage-like notes, savory accent. Score: 92

Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch (Russian River Valley, $57). Broad palate of dark fruit, accented by mineral notes, pleasingly spicy finish. Score: 92

Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir Meredith Estate (Russian River Valley, $57). Rich ripe red fruit with a berrylike taste, smooth textures, hint of milk chocolate on finish. Score: 93

“It was the 2005 Broadley Vineyards Shea Pinot Noir that did it. The perfect balance of smooth, earthy, spicy and fruitiness to go along with the hand-picked wild mushroom tart. The complexity of this Pinot is what is most memorable – it continued to give more as the meal progressed. First, subtle tannins, forest floor, herbal and spice aromas with cherry flavors. For its second act, still smooth and even more aromatic with floral and vanilla perfumes, hearty roast and rich blackberry flavors – which played nicely with the beef stroganoff and the filet mignon with porcini mushroom demi-glace.

“Broadley Vineyards is a family-run vineyard and winery in the Yamhill-Carlton district producing some of the best Pinot from Oregon. The winemaker’s talents clearly shine through in this wine.”

About Heidi:

Heidi Butzine, CWX is the author of the Wineopolis® Wine-travel Guidebook series, curriculum author and Program Director for the Certified Wine Expert® Training and Certification Program. She is also a member of the International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association and the Society of Wine Educators. Heidi is a native Californian and she loves wine (but couldn’t grow grapes if her life depended on it). In addition to writing and helping others learn about wine, she dabbles in photography, loves to cook when inspired, plays on the drums once in a while and occasionally speaks French.

Olsen has been at Villa Maria for only two years but is responsible for lot selection and blending. With a background in biochemistry, one would expect her to rely on science in her decisions, but she has realized the artistic component of winemaking and considers herself to be more influenced by the art than the science when assembling her wines.

When it comes to Pinot Noir, we should trust Olsen’s artistic instincts, because the wines I tasted were balanced, forward, and evocative of European elegance.

Ezmè Restaurant and Wine Bar (2016 P Street, NW, 202-223-4303) is the Bolukbasi brothers second venture, the first being the ultra-successful Mezè in Adams Morgan. With a focus on Turkish food and small bites, the best way to sample Ezmè’s menu is to go with friends and order several dishes to share.

I paired the Villa Maria 2007 Pinot Noir Taylors Pass Vineyard (Marlborough, New Zealand, $44) with Ezmè’s Sis Kebab, grilled seasoned lamb served with a yogurt sauce. The wine showed blackberry and raspberry aromas and flavors, with more depth than many Pinots, and a soft, elegant finish. The subtle flavors of the kebab, accented with the yogurt sauce, married well with the Olsen’s wine.

Also on the table was the Villa Maria 2008 Pinot Noir Private Bin which, at $20, is a steal. With intense aromas, black cherry flavors, and a subtle accent of sage, this was a beautiful wine and would have worked just as well with the Sis Kebab.

Dick Rosano has offered his insights on wine in many publications and radio shows, and is a regular contributor to WeeklyWinePick.com.

Wines that go with steakhouse food also have a long tradition. Cabernet Sauvignon, a bold yet silky wine that can stand up to steak, is an obvious first choice. Merlot is sometimes too soft for the matchup, but some from Carneros and Napa Valley have the power and presence to match with steak. A perennial favorite of mine is the Beringer Howell Mountain Merlot from Bancroft Ranch.

Pinot Noir – if rich enough and textured enough – should be a prime choice next to a hearty steak. I had the opportunity to taste through Aaron Walker’s wines from Pali Wine Company and size them up next to a filet mignon at Morton’s in Crystal City (1750 Crystal Drive, Arlington).

We savored four Pinot Noirs (reviewed below) but the Pali 2008 Durell Vineyard edged out the other Pali Pinots with the filet mignon. The succulent aromas and tender textures of the meat might have been overwhelmed by a robust Cabernet so the silkier mouthfeel and broad palate impression of Walker’s Pinot Noir were a perfect match.

Heads up: Morton’s did not carry these wines as of the night of the tasting, but they were introduced to the wines that afternoon. The wines are in local wine stores, so try them first then call Morton’s and ask why they’re not already on the wine list.

  Pali 2008 Durell Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast, $44). Scents of coffee, cola, and blueberry, this silky wine is rich and full-bodied, with a hint of herbs.

Pali 2008 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley, $44). Black cherry, cola on nose; soft textures, broad palate impression.

Pali 2008 Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Rita Hills, $44). Black tea aromas with a hint of black cherry and tobacco; soft fruit flavors with slight but evident tannins.

Pali 2007 Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley, $44). Fragrant with violets and cinnamon; flavors tend toward cherry and dark chocolate.

After engaging me with a few questions about which styles of wine I preferred, and offering a few optional suggestions, Gino settled on what he described as “one of the best values in Pinot Noir” he has seen in awhile, a wine from Fiddlehead Cellars.  ”Fiddlestix is nestled between Sanford and Sea Smoke (vineyards), and is cultivated by stewards who stress biodynamic practices.”  The wine is named after the mile marker (728) on Santa Rosa Road in Santa Rita Hills, and offers elegant layers of cherry and white pepper on the palate.

At Delicias, Gino endeavors to let taste be the guide to his guests’ wine choices.  To that end, he priced all of his by the glass offerings the same, and includes such quality producers as Flowers Winery.  In addition to an extensive list of bottles, he has implemented a creative wine flight program that allows guests to compare old world versus new word wines, challenge themselves by evaluating his selections blind, and custom flights built to one’s specific tastes.

If you have the pleasure of dining at Delicias, don’t be surprised if Gino announces to the entire dining room his need for assistance evaluating a new bottle, and pouring a taste for you and everyone else in the room.  Your honest feedback will be welcome!

Sommelier Gino Campbell in the Cellar of Delicias.

Photo Credit: Ranch & Coast

Stonehouse Dining Room

The Stonehouse is a small and secluded restaurant and the winner of numerous awards, including Wine Spectator’s Best of Award of Excellence.  Jerry has overseen the wine there for nearly five years, since the historic property completed an extensive (and expensive) renovation.  He noted that the majority of visitors and locals alike want to drink local wines, so Jerry keeps his inventory about half domestic and half imported.  Jerry also enjoys offering a few exclusive wines by the glass, “I always pour Krug Grand Cuvée by the glass, and currently we’re pouring glasses of 2003 Chateau D”Yquem.”

Solomon Hills

Salmon is a perfect case in point. Whether grilled, baked, or marinated and sautéed, this fish makes a perfect case for red wine, particularly a luscious Pinot Noir from America’s west coast. And when the salmon is pepper-encrusted or served with a spice-infused sauce, the marriage of red wine with fish is complete.

Try the following recipe, then pour a glass of one of the recommended Pinot Noirs and see what you think.

Make a marinade of 1 teaspoon of sesame oil, 3 tablespoons of white wine, 3 tablespoons of soy sauce, and 2 tablespoons of dark brown sugar. Put salmon steaks in a wide flat casserole dish, pour the marinade over it and lest rest in the refrigerator for up to four hours, turning the steaks occasionally. Heat the grill, oil the rack, then grill the salmon. Reduce the remaining marinade in a saucepan by one-half. When the salmon is finished, pour the marinade over the steaks and serve.

Recommended Pinot Noirs:
Davis Bynum 2007 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley, $35) Full bodied and forward, black cherry and mocha flavors.

Four Graces 2006 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley, $27). Deep, sensuous aromas of red fruit and earth, a bit of smoke on palate.

MacMurray 2007 Pinot Noir (Central Coast, $20). Blackberries on nose and palate, delicate yet ample.

Merry Edwards 2007 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast, $36). Sumptuous and smooth, flavors of cranberry, black cherry, and plum.

Merry Edwards 2006 Pinot Noir Meredith Estate (Russian River Valley, $54). Rich and full-bodied, subtle accents and finishing notes.

Ponzi 2007 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley, $35). Soft fruit flavors, juicy, touch of black pepper on finish.

Sequana 2007 Pinot Noir Sundawg Ridge Vineyards (Russian River Valley, $50). Sumptuous and richly textured.

Taz 2006 Pinot Noir Fiddlestix Vineyard (Santa Rita Hills, $35). Spicy, jazzy plum and red cherry flavors.

Wild Earth 2006 Pinot Noir (Central Otago, NZ, $30). Aromatic and forward, taste of fresh fruit, slightly spiced.

Dick Rosano has offered his insights on wine in many publications and radio shows, and is a regular contributor to WeeklyWinePick.com.

The Firehouse is a Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence winner.  Mario said his wine program has historically focused on wines of California, but currently has a good mix from all regions of the world, especially Spain and Australia.  Join them on July 30 when they host Erin Green, winemaker at Pahlmayer, for a 6-course winemakers dinner.

I also asked Mario about his all-time favorite wine and the best he’s had recently for around $10.  He loves almost any rosé from Provence: “For $7 or $8 you can pour it in a carafe and have a bunch of friends over and thats all you need.”  His fondest wine memories come from the wines of Blain-Gagnard, which he drank from the barrel at the winemaker’s home in Cote d”Or.

Ron Marshall in the Cellar of Mr. Stox

This week’s pick was offered by Sommelier Ron Marshall of Mr. Stox Restaurant in Anaheim California, who recommended the 2008 Carneros Pinot Noir from ZD Wines.  ”The 2008 vintage marked the 40th Anniversary of ZD Wines, and this wine is the 40th consecutive vintage of Pinot Noir produced. Crafted from a blend of the highly regarded Dijon clones 667, 777 and the older, but equally respected, 115 and Pommard clones, this wine is a true expression of what the Carneros has to offer. The vineyard has been farmed organically since 2002 and was certified in 2005. The medium ruby color and aromas of briary raspberry and black cherry are complemented by subtle hints of vanilla, cedar and rhubarb. Aged for 10 months in small French Oak barrels, the subtle oak nuances integrate beautifully with the ripe, unctuous fruit and silky tannins,” noted winemaker Chis Pisani.

Mr. Stox is an Anaheim institution, and Ron Marshall oversees a substantial wine program that earned its first Wine Spectator Grand Award back in 1983.  Mr Stox is also honored to receive the Golden Bacchus award from the Southern California Restaurant for the 25,000 bottle wine inventory offering over 1100 wine selections. Most recently Mr Stox was selected by the Nation’s Restaurant News to their Fine Dining Hall of Fame. Likewise, the Wine Enthusiast Magazine honored Mr Stox in 2005 with its Award of Ultimate Distinction.

Use Wine-Searcher.com to find this wine for sale near you.

Like me, they had the delight of visiting the winery. The Artesa facility itself is a sight to see, one of Napa’s most unique. Indeed, it is almost all located underground with a grass roof. The ultra modern interior includes original artwork of the artist in residence, and the tasting room staff and tour guides are unpretentious and friendly.

Artesa stands for “craftsman,” which is appropriate for a winery that crafts its wine with great care under the leadership of their winemaker, Mark Beringer. Artesa achieves a different, softer style because they do not crush any red grapes (they do crush white grapes releasing juice to be fermented without skins). They leave red wine grapes to begin fermentation inside the skins, which break open on their own and release juice. When making red wines most winemakers gently crush the grapes to release the juice. Crushing is perfectly fine and makes wonderful wines, but just a different style.

Aresta’s no-crush approach makes wines that are softer and fruitier because fewer bitter flavors from skins and seeds are released into the wines. Their wines are rich and velvety with a softer style than many “big” Napa Valley reds, yet they are still wonderfully flavorful and complex.

Artesa’s Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are grown in its Napa Valley Carneros-based winery, while some of the other red grapes are grown in warmer areas in Sonoma and Napa. Carneros has a surprisingly cooler climate than the rest of Napa. At a visit during one of the hottest  weeks this summer (while it was well over 100 degrees just an hour away in Sacramento), Carneros was down-right chilly by comparison, with cool breezes coming off the San Pablo Bay. Meanwhile, that week, unbearably hot weather plagued Pinot Noir grapes at Oregon vineyards, which are considered some of the best sites for Pinot Noir in the country because their usually cooler climate. Carneros is indeed a particularly unique place. In addition to cool breezes fog blankets vineyards in the morning, keeping grapes cool before it is burned off by bright sunlight. These factors produce good ripening of grapes with a relatively long-hang time on the vine.  They can then develop complex, fruity flavors and sugar, while maintaining enough acid to make balanced wines.

Not surprisingly, Artesa produces fantastic Pinot Noir wines, at all price points. Their value-priced Pinot Noir has a delicate profile–as Pinot Noir should–but it is still packed with fruit flavors and spice with complexity. You can get the 2006 Pinot Noir Carneros for $20-$25.

Artesa Chardonnay is a particularly nice, balanced wine, in contrast to other California Chardonnay wines that some say receive excessive oak or other treatments. Fifty percent of the wine is fermented in oak barrels, is aged with the yeast (aged “on its lees”), and receives malolactic fermentation. The other half is fermented in stainless steel and does not undergo malolactic fermentation. In addition, the French oak barrels are 34 percent new (which extracts more intense flavor) and 66 percent used (which exacts subtle if any flavor). French oak imparts flavors that are less intense than American oak, which is commonly used in California Chardonnay.

Also worth hunting down are Artesa Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot wines. If you visit you can taste some of them at the winery in Carneros, but the grapes are sourced from their vineyards in warmer areas—one in Napa’s Atlas Peak area and the other in Alexander Valley in Sonoma. These reds offer opulently rich and velvety flavor and texture with deep, dark fruit flavors. Try the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa/Sonoma made with 55 percent Napa grapes and 45 percent Sonoma-sourced grapes.  It is aged in French oak barrels for 24 months. It is available for $20-$25.  Total Wine has a Napa Valley only Cabernet for $29.99, worth trying.

If you have a bigger budget and are willing to do mail order, Aresta’s single vineyard and limited release wines are nothing short of fantastic. Artesa also markets wines under the label of Ridgeline, which are quite delicious. I recently mail-ordered from the winery half a case to enjoy this summer. You might also locate some on on Wine Searcher. Check out the others available on their website.