Wines that go with steakhouse food also have a long tradition. Cabernet Sauvignon, a bold yet silky wine that can stand up to steak, is an obvious first choice. Merlot is sometimes too soft for the matchup, but some from Carneros and Napa Valley have the power and presence to match with steak. A perennial favorite of mine is the Beringer Howell Mountain Merlot from Bancroft Ranch.

Pinot Noir – if rich enough and textured enough – should be a prime choice next to a hearty steak. I had the opportunity to taste through Aaron Walker’s wines from Pali Wine Company and size them up next to a filet mignon at Morton’s in Crystal City (1750 Crystal Drive, Arlington).

We savored four Pinot Noirs (reviewed below) but the Pali 2008 Durell Vineyard edged out the other Pali Pinots with the filet mignon. The succulent aromas and tender textures of the meat might have been overwhelmed by a robust Cabernet so the silkier mouthfeel and broad palate impression of Walker’s Pinot Noir were a perfect match.

Heads up: Morton’s did not carry these wines as of the night of the tasting, but they were introduced to the wines that afternoon. The wines are in local wine stores, so try them first then call Morton’s and ask why they’re not already on the wine list.

  Pali 2008 Durell Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast, $44). Scents of coffee, cola, and blueberry, this silky wine is rich and full-bodied, with a hint of herbs.

Pali 2008 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley, $44). Black cherry, cola on nose; soft textures, broad palate impression.

Pali 2008 Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Rita Hills, $44). Black tea aromas with a hint of black cherry and tobacco; soft fruit flavors with slight but evident tannins.

Pali 2007 Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley, $44). Fragrant with violets and cinnamon; flavors tend toward cherry and dark chocolate.

After engaging me with a few questions about which styles of wine I preferred, and offering a few optional suggestions, Gino settled on what he described as “one of the best values in Pinot Noir” he has seen in awhile, a wine from Fiddlehead Cellars.  ”Fiddlestix is nestled between Sanford and Sea Smoke (vineyards), and is cultivated by stewards who stress biodynamic practices.”  The wine is named after the mile marker (728) on Santa Rosa Road in Santa Rita Hills, and offers elegant layers of cherry and white pepper on the palate.

At Delicias, Gino endeavors to let taste be the guide to his guests’ wine choices.  To that end, he priced all of his by the glass offerings the same, and includes such quality producers as Flowers Winery.  In addition to an extensive list of bottles, he has implemented a creative wine flight program that allows guests to compare old world versus new word wines, challenge themselves by evaluating his selections blind, and custom flights built to one’s specific tastes.

If you have the pleasure of dining at Delicias, don’t be surprised if Gino announces to the entire dining room his need for assistance evaluating a new bottle, and pouring a taste for you and everyone else in the room.  Your honest feedback will be welcome!

Sommelier Gino Campbell in the Cellar of Delicias.

Photo Credit: Ranch & Coast

Stonehouse Dining Room

The Stonehouse is a small and secluded restaurant and the winner of numerous awards, including Wine Spectator’s Best of Award of Excellence.  Jerry has overseen the wine there for nearly five years, since the historic property completed an extensive (and expensive) renovation.  He noted that the majority of visitors and locals alike want to drink local wines, so Jerry keeps his inventory about half domestic and half imported.  Jerry also enjoys offering a few exclusive wines by the glass, “I always pour Krug Grand Cuvée by the glass, and currently we’re pouring glasses of 2003 Chateau D”Yquem.”

Solomon Hills

Salmon is a perfect case in point. Whether grilled, baked, or marinated and sautéed, this fish makes a perfect case for red wine, particularly a luscious Pinot Noir from America’s west coast. And when the salmon is pepper-encrusted or served with a spice-infused sauce, the marriage of red wine with fish is complete.

Try the following recipe, then pour a glass of one of the recommended Pinot Noirs and see what you think.

Make a marinade of 1 teaspoon of sesame oil, 3 tablespoons of white wine, 3 tablespoons of soy sauce, and 2 tablespoons of dark brown sugar. Put salmon steaks in a wide flat casserole dish, pour the marinade over it and lest rest in the refrigerator for up to four hours, turning the steaks occasionally. Heat the grill, oil the rack, then grill the salmon. Reduce the remaining marinade in a saucepan by one-half. When the salmon is finished, pour the marinade over the steaks and serve.

Recommended Pinot Noirs:
Davis Bynum 2007 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley, $35) Full bodied and forward, black cherry and mocha flavors.

Four Graces 2006 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley, $27). Deep, sensuous aromas of red fruit and earth, a bit of smoke on palate.

MacMurray 2007 Pinot Noir (Central Coast, $20). Blackberries on nose and palate, delicate yet ample.

Merry Edwards 2007 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast, $36). Sumptuous and smooth, flavors of cranberry, black cherry, and plum.

Merry Edwards 2006 Pinot Noir Meredith Estate (Russian River Valley, $54). Rich and full-bodied, subtle accents and finishing notes.

Ponzi 2007 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley, $35). Soft fruit flavors, juicy, touch of black pepper on finish.

Sequana 2007 Pinot Noir Sundawg Ridge Vineyards (Russian River Valley, $50). Sumptuous and richly textured.

Taz 2006 Pinot Noir Fiddlestix Vineyard (Santa Rita Hills, $35). Spicy, jazzy plum and red cherry flavors.

Wild Earth 2006 Pinot Noir (Central Otago, NZ, $30). Aromatic and forward, taste of fresh fruit, slightly spiced.

Dick Rosano has offered his insights on wine in many publications and radio shows, and is a regular contributor to WeeklyWinePick.com.

The Firehouse is a Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence winner.  Mario said his wine program has historically focused on wines of California, but currently has a good mix from all regions of the world, especially Spain and Australia.  Join them on July 30 when they host Erin Green, winemaker at Pahlmayer, for a 6-course winemakers dinner.

I also asked Mario about his all-time favorite wine and the best he’s had recently for around $10.  He loves almost any rosé from Provence: “For $7 or $8 you can pour it in a carafe and have a bunch of friends over and thats all you need.”  His fondest wine memories come from the wines of Blain-Gagnard, which he drank from the barrel at the winemaker’s home in Cote d”Or.

Ron Marshall in the Cellar of Mr. Stox

This week’s pick was offered by Sommelier Ron Marshall of Mr. Stox Restaurant in Anaheim California, who recommended the 2008 Carneros Pinot Noir from ZD Wines.  ”The 2008 vintage marked the 40th Anniversary of ZD Wines, and this wine is the 40th consecutive vintage of Pinot Noir produced. Crafted from a blend of the highly regarded Dijon clones 667, 777 and the older, but equally respected, 115 and Pommard clones, this wine is a true expression of what the Carneros has to offer. The vineyard has been farmed organically since 2002 and was certified in 2005. The medium ruby color and aromas of briary raspberry and black cherry are complemented by subtle hints of vanilla, cedar and rhubarb. Aged for 10 months in small French Oak barrels, the subtle oak nuances integrate beautifully with the ripe, unctuous fruit and silky tannins,” noted winemaker Chis Pisani.

Mr. Stox is an Anaheim institution, and Ron Marshall oversees a substantial wine program that earned its first Wine Spectator Grand Award back in 1983.  Mr Stox is also honored to receive the Golden Bacchus award from the Southern California Restaurant for the 25,000 bottle wine inventory offering over 1100 wine selections. Most recently Mr Stox was selected by the Nation’s Restaurant News to their Fine Dining Hall of Fame. Likewise, the Wine Enthusiast Magazine honored Mr Stox in 2005 with its Award of Ultimate Distinction.

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Like me, they had the delight of visiting the winery. The Artesa facility itself is a sight to see, one of Napa’s most unique. Indeed, it is almost all located underground with a grass roof. The ultra modern interior includes original artwork of the artist in residence, and the tasting room staff and tour guides are unpretentious and friendly.

Artesa stands for “craftsman,” which is appropriate for a winery that crafts its wine with great care under the leadership of their winemaker, Mark Beringer. Artesa achieves a different, softer style because they do not crush any red grapes (they do crush white grapes releasing juice to be fermented without skins). They leave red wine grapes to begin fermentation inside the skins, which break open on their own and release juice. When making red wines most winemakers gently crush the grapes to release the juice. Crushing is perfectly fine and makes wonderful wines, but just a different style.

Aresta’s no-crush approach makes wines that are softer and fruitier because fewer bitter flavors from skins and seeds are released into the wines. Their wines are rich and velvety with a softer style than many “big” Napa Valley reds, yet they are still wonderfully flavorful and complex.

Artesa’s Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are grown in its Napa Valley Carneros-based winery, while some of the other red grapes are grown in warmer areas in Sonoma and Napa. Carneros has a surprisingly cooler climate than the rest of Napa. At a visit during one of the hottest  weeks this summer (while it was well over 100 degrees just an hour away in Sacramento), Carneros was down-right chilly by comparison, with cool breezes coming off the San Pablo Bay. Meanwhile, that week, unbearably hot weather plagued Pinot Noir grapes at Oregon vineyards, which are considered some of the best sites for Pinot Noir in the country because their usually cooler climate. Carneros is indeed a particularly unique place. In addition to cool breezes fog blankets vineyards in the morning, keeping grapes cool before it is burned off by bright sunlight. These factors produce good ripening of grapes with a relatively long-hang time on the vine.  They can then develop complex, fruity flavors and sugar, while maintaining enough acid to make balanced wines.

Not surprisingly, Artesa produces fantastic Pinot Noir wines, at all price points. Their value-priced Pinot Noir has a delicate profile–as Pinot Noir should–but it is still packed with fruit flavors and spice with complexity. You can get the 2006 Pinot Noir Carneros for $20-$25.

Artesa Chardonnay is a particularly nice, balanced wine, in contrast to other California Chardonnay wines that some say receive excessive oak or other treatments. Fifty percent of the wine is fermented in oak barrels, is aged with the yeast (aged “on its lees”), and receives malolactic fermentation. The other half is fermented in stainless steel and does not undergo malolactic fermentation. In addition, the French oak barrels are 34 percent new (which extracts more intense flavor) and 66 percent used (which exacts subtle if any flavor). French oak imparts flavors that are less intense than American oak, which is commonly used in California Chardonnay.

Also worth hunting down are Artesa Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot wines. If you visit you can taste some of them at the winery in Carneros, but the grapes are sourced from their vineyards in warmer areas—one in Napa’s Atlas Peak area and the other in Alexander Valley in Sonoma. These reds offer opulently rich and velvety flavor and texture with deep, dark fruit flavors. Try the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa/Sonoma made with 55 percent Napa grapes and 45 percent Sonoma-sourced grapes.  It is aged in French oak barrels for 24 months. It is available for $20-$25.  Total Wine has a Napa Valley only Cabernet for $29.99, worth trying.

If you have a bigger budget and are willing to do mail order, Aresta’s single vineyard and limited release wines are nothing short of fantastic. Artesa also markets wines under the label of Ridgeline, which are quite delicious. I recently mail-ordered from the winery half a case to enjoy this summer. You might also locate some on on Wine Searcher. Check out the others available on their website.

Hugo kicked the meeting off with the Finca La Linda Torrontés, which had a floral aroma that made me anticipate a sweet, full-bodied white.  What I got was an ultra clean and bone dry refresher that held the door for the first course of market greens, herbs and truffled new potatoes.  The winery’s value line, Finca la Linda aims for a fruit-forward modern style.  Hugo next poured the unoaked Chardonnay from that line along with a chardonnay from the Riserva line.  Due to partial oak-aging the Riserva offered a sleek backbone and toast, while the La Linda was young and crisp with notes of apple.  Both were delightful pairs to finish our salads and an amuse of tuna tartare.

Next we compared Hugo’s Pinot Noir and  Temperanillo, poured to match a dish of duck confit, hand-rolled cavatappi, maitake mushrooms and beet purée.  The Pinot, which Hugo admitted to be the winery’s on-going experiment, turned out to be my favorite of the day.  Stylistically it reminded me of Monterey County, and its “crazy pluminess” reminded Dick of Russian River.  I thought the wine offered a bright contrast to the mildly gamey duck and the nestled up to the earthiness of the beet purée.  The Tempranillo was 100% pure from one of the older family vineyards.  Distinct old-world style with ripe, ripe tannins.

To meet Mina’s signature butter-poached, wood-fired filet, Hugo poured the two Malbecs from his line.  Both the Riserva and the DOC Malbec were outstanding representatives of Mendoza’s signature varietal, but the aromatics of the DOC made for an extra special experience.  ”To be honest, the winery is producing European style wines.  We are trying to have wine for food, and Europeans have the best wines for food.  Even when we are working with new world grapes, we are trying to make wines that will pair with different types of meats,” said Hugo.  Dick offered that, “Malbec is, or was, the flagship wine of Argentina, but it doesn’t need to be anymore, because Argentina makes many other good wines…Malbec brought Argentina the attention of the world, and now it has many other wines to offer.”

All of the wines we tasted cost between $12-$28 dollars.  They offer tremendous value, but do not taste like value wines.  Were we tasting blind, accompanied by cuisine from a top restaurant, I would have guessed that all 7 wines were ultra-premium samples from everywhere but South America.  The first comment I always hear about Argentinian Malbecs is that they are a great value.  While that is definitely true, I left this table enlightened about a wine region that is making many great wines regardless of the price.

Located amidst bustling Bowen’s Wharf in the heart of downtown Newport, 22 Bowen’s Wine Bar & Grille is a world-class steakhouse serving USDA Prime beef, New England’s finest seafood, and is complemented by an award-winning wine list.  On February 2, the restaurant will present an exclusive dinner featuring the wines of Nickel & Nickel Single Vineyards.  Host Larry Maguire of Nickel & Nickel will lead guests through each selection of wine as they are paired with Executive Sous Chef Chris Jones’ elegant four-course dinner.

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The Sooke Harbor House is on Vancouver Island and overlooks the Puget Sound, offering breath-taking views of the Olympic mountains.  Britta described her inn’s commitment to the ”100 mile diet”.  They emphasize unique local cuisine (the menu changes daily) and focus on wines from British Columbia (all of their wines by the glass are from BC).  Their 7,000 bottle cellar is a Wine Spectator Grand Award winner.