In fact, Albariño – called Alvarinho in Portugal – is a wonderful complement to a wide range of foods. With its focus on peach and nectarine flavors, accented by a bit of citric acidity, the wine balances zest with texture to serve up a medium-bodied, long-flavored wine. Usually it is slightly on the sweet side, but this helps deliver fullness of flavor when matched against spicy foods.

Starting with seafood, Albariño is best with steamed shellfish or broiled spine fish, although it merits attention with the better versions of ceviche. And it has enough body to serve alongside fish soup or cioppino.

But Albariño also pairs well with chicken – especially those with cream sauces or accented by herbs – and pasta dishes with clam sauce or mushroom-based sauces.

In the restaurant scene, you should find excellent examples of Albariño in establishments like Taberno del Alabardero, La Tasca, and Jaleo, but the wine is also likely to appear on well-drawn wine lists in wine-savvy restaurants, like Grapeseed, Tallula, and Cork. If it’s not there, ask – no, demand – and see how your favorite watering hole reacts to your new discovery.

Meanwhile, here are some Albariños for you to try on your own – with or without preparing a complete Spanish meal as accompaniment. All are from Rias Biaxas, in the northwestern region of Galicia.

  Condes de Albarei 2010 -Apricot and peach on nose, vibrantly fruity

Don Olegario 2010 – Floral, fruity, bright white peach and nectarine flavors

Mar de Frades 2010 – Refreshing touch of acidity to add sparkle to a forward-fruity wine

Marques d Vizhoja Torre la Moreira 2010 – Bright, fresh, a bit more reserved than other Albariños

Pazo Señorans 2010 – Unctuous and smooth, richer in texture than other Albariños

Robaliño 2010 – Butter, hazelnut and flowers on nose, supple textures with vein of acidity

Santiago Ruiz 2010 – White peach, hint of pineapple on nose and palate

White wine makers finally realized that they were being scoffed at and decided to ramp up the quality to retake their market share. And red wine drinkers who, for years, tut-tutted the shallow whites as useless suddenly discovered the joys of a lightly chilled and briskly acidic wine as a come-hither invitation to the delights of the table.

Chardonnay was good, but had already given birth to an anti- market. Dubbed ABC wine, it referred to wine drinkers looking for “anything but Chardonnay.” There was a dalliance with Viognier and Riesling, and perennial flirtations with exotic Old World wines like Torrontes, Marsanne, Aligoté, and Albariño, but as aperitif wines go, we were looking for brisk, lively wines that tantalized the palate and prepared us for the meal.

Enter Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris. Not the PGs of years past, wines that lacked finish and were hard to distinguish from the water glass standing next to it. PGs of today boast a panoply of flavors, citrus overtones, balance, and – more so in the case of Pinot Gris – supple textures.

  I would still choose a Pinot Grigio for a pre-prandial drink. Its racy flavors and gulpability are perfect for the first drink of the evening. And I would pick Pinot Gris, with its fuller mouthfeel and longer impression as the wine to serve with food. But both have their place.

Banfi 2010 Le Rime Pinot Grigio (Tuscany, $9). Refreshing and bright, with lemony acidity.

Castello di Gabbiano 2010 Pinot Grigio (Tuscany, $8).  Scents of lemon zest and lime come first, followed by a zesty, bright fruity wine with highlights of citrus.

Erath 2009 Pinot Gris (Oregon, $14). Silky smooth, luscious white peach and pear flavors yet with a tingling threat of acidity to hold it all together.

Kumeu River 2009 Pinot Gris (Auckland, New Zealand, $21). Peach and vanilla on the nose, followed by the rich flavors of ripe peach and tropical fruit. The slightly oily hint to the texture bodes well and shows a full-bodied wine to pair well with cream-based dishes.

Ponzi 2010 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley, $15). Zesty and refreshing, hint of lime and floral accents on nose, main theme of lime on palate, with citrus acidity bracing the entire impression.

Santa Cristina 2010 Pinot Grigio (Sicily, $16). Crisp bright fruit aromas with a floral hint, slight apple and citrus flavors with touch of orange on finish.

WillaKenzie 2010 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley, $21).  Crisp, fresh, lively acidity, bright pear and crisp apple flavors, touch of pineapple on finish.

We had reached Atlas Peak, the mountain but also the former name of a winery. Founded originally by a partnership between Marchese Piero Antinori, Bollinger, and Whitbread, Atlas Peak Winery was host to newly planted Italian varietals as well as the first ever Sangiovese Symposium in 1997.

The Italian grapes struggled to survive and, now, the new enterprise called Antica has returned to Napa Valley’s preeminent grapes: Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, though some Sangiovese is still vinified by winemaker Nate Weis on the property.

Antinori’s style shows through in the wines, the estate, and the layout of the vineyards, green lines of lush vines that cascade down the slopes from this aerie. Hidden from Napa’s busy commerce on Route 29 and surrounded by lazy hills and cultured vineyards, the landscape below us seemed snatched from a photographer’s rendering of the bucolic beauty of Tuscany. So it is no surprise that the wines should show elegance, respect for tradition, and bountiful flavors. 

The 2009 Chardonnay ($35) has scents of pear and apple, with luscious textures and layered flavors, interwoven with a racy thread of minerality. It would be a perfect pair for trout almondine. The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon ($55) shows black cherry fruit and, while still a little closed, seems to be coming out of hibernation.

There are just a handful of wines that have the acidity and fruitiness to truly refresh us. Pinot Grigio, Torrontes, off-dry Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc are the first to come to mind.

The bright breezy flavors of Sauvignon Blanc are the highlight of many wines. In the U.S., Australia, and South America, the wines are known by the name of the grape, but in France, where some of the most elegant wines are made, “SBs” are labeled as Sancerre, a Loire Valley wine with herbal, flinty characteristics, or Pouilly Fumé, also from the Loire Valley and featuring a hint of smoke on the palate. White wines from Bordeaux are also made from Sauvignon Blanc grapes.

Here are some recent finds, all worthy or our attention before fall sets in and we abandon the delicious white wines of summer.

  From Loire Valley:
Michel Redde 2007 Pouilly-Fumé La Moynerie ($30). Rich and smooth, yet zesty, with lemon peel accents on finish.

Michel Redde 2007 Sancerre Les Tuilieres ($30). Fresh and delightfully fruity, pineapple, grapefruit, green apple accents, and a light flinty touch. A mouthful of zesty, spirited wine.

Others:
Dancing Bull 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (California, $12). Refreshing and forward, with pineapple and mango on nose and palate.

Emiliana Natura 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Chile, $11). Brisk and lively, easily quaffable, highlighting lemon/lime flavors.

Girard 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley, $23). A distinctive wine, with accents of herbs and lime, soft and approachable.

Merry Edwards 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley, $30). Beautifully structured, flavors of kiwi and ripe citrus, hint of lime, just a touch of sweet white fruit.

Paul Dolan 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (Mendocino County, $18). A bright beautiful display, with lemon citrus and orange peel flavors, medium body, modest finish.

Plozner 2007 Sauvignon (Fruili, $17). Slight grapefruit and citrus on nose, softly fragrant and zesty, apple and grapefruit flavors, nectarine accents.

Robert Oatley 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Western Australia, $17). Lime, citrus and green grass on nose, limey flavors, tropical fruit on finish.

Despite the whimsical name, Thai One On (56 Whitehall Avenue, Mystic, 860-415-4666) serves up some of the best Thai food I’ve had since returning from Bangkok. A signature dish is Tiger’s Tear, with grilled slices of beef, white onion, cilantro and scallion, topped with a “Yom” sauce that emphasizes heat, citrus, and fish sauce. The dish can then be garnished with lemongrass, tomato wedges, or thin slices of carrot, more for visual effect that flavor.

Beef with bright citrusy accents and zesty herbs like cilantro would come across as awkward with a hefty red wine. That fine bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon that you were saving for the grilled steak – well – keep saving it, and search in the cellar for a bracing, lightly assertive white wine.

The pick for this dish, both by me and the chef, is an off-dry Riesling. Here are some suggestions:

Château des Charmes 2008 Riesling (Niagara-on-Lake, $13). Tingly, sweet apple and pineapple, ripe fruit.

Château St. Jean 2008 Riesling (Sonoma County, $15). Peach and apple on nose, peach and nectarine on palate, very fruity, simple finish.

Sofia 2008 Riesling (Monterey County, $19). Bright acidity, full of fruit with a tangy, sweet aspect, peaches and green apples on palate.

Tiger’s Tear
½ pound sliced sirloin, cut into thin, 2-inch long pieces
½ white onion, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon lemongrass
2 small carrots, julienned
½ cucumber, sliced
1 tablespoon cilantro, chopped
2 scallions, thinly sliced
several chopped lettuce leaves

Yom Sauce
2 teaspoons good quality fish sauce
3 teaspoons lemon juice
1/2 spoon sugar
1 teaspoon chili paste

Mix all ingredients for the Yom sauce in a bowl and set aside.

Grill the sirloin on both side over a fire. Put it in the Yom Sauce and add the onions and lemongrass and mix.

Arrange lettuce leaves as a bed, on each plate. Arrange the beef on top of the greens, and top with Yom Sauce. Garnish with carrots, cucumber, chopped cilantro and scallion.

Optional: Dress the plate with wedges of tomato, cucumber slices and julienne carrots.

“While Massican takes its name from a coastal mountain range in southern Italy, proprietor and winemaker Dan Petroski draws his inspiration from the blended wines of Friuli in the eastern hills of northern Italy.

“His white wine “annia” is a blend of dry-farmed Friulano from sixty-three year old vines, a floral “Muscat Clone” of Chardonnay from Carneros and Ribolla Gialla (Yellow Ribolla) from legendary Napa Valley Italian grape aficionado George Vare. Mr. Vare’s famed vineyard, planted in metamorphic soils at the base of Mount Veeder, is the only known planting of Ribolla in the country and provides grapes to some of the finest winemakers in the Napa Valley.
With subtle honeysuckle and orange-blossom notes mingling with aromas of white peach and Bosc pear, “annia” is quite fragrant. When the wine hits the palate the fresh citrus flavors provide laser-like focus and impressive length.
“The bright, crisp style and modest 12.8% alcohol level make this wine the ideal compliment for salad and seafood courses at The French Laundry. The bad news? With only 238 cases of this wine produced, I expect that it will be sold-out in a Milan-minute.”

Chef Thomas Keller’s The French Laundry has garnered world-wide acclaim from every leading lifestyle publication and newspaper.  It is an icon.  To some it is the equivalent of Mecca.  I began my pilgrimage 6 weeks ago when I called for a reservation and was placed on the waiting list.  I booked my flights and hotel, with faith that I would show up at the gate and be deemed worthy.  The stars aligned and a cancellation 3 days prior to my Saturday visit secured me a table, and I will get to enjoy Mr. Kelly’s recommendation personally.

To be continued…

“SB” as it’s known to admirers around the world brings us such memorable wines as white Bordeaux, Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé from France and Fumé Blanc from California. In the United States, the regions best known for Sauvignon Blanc are Dry Creek Valley and Russian River Valley, both in California’s Sonoma County. Here the soil and climate are ideal for producing fruit that balances the acidity and fresh citrusy flavors that are the hallmark of well-made SBs.

New Zealand has also developed a following for its Sauvignon Blanc. Here, the SBs take on a slightly more lime-influenced accent (versus the oft-cited lemon zest of California SBs), and are well suited to raw bar servings like oysters on the half shell.

Dishes that go with Sauvignon Blanc also emphasize the fresh, light flavors of spring. Seafood salads, lime vinaigrette, orange chicken with fennel, dill sauces, gazpacho, and steamed shellfish are perfect with this wine. SB is wonderful as an aperitif, served on the deck next to the grill, or during the meal itself.

You can find your own favorite recipes, but here are some recommended wines to go with them.

Dry Creek Vineyard 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley, $16). With grapefruit and lime aromas, and lemon, lime, and grapefruit flavors, this is like the poster child for springtime wines.

Foppiano 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley, $18). Floral nose with pineapple and green apple dominant, fresh and crisp, long finish.

Kim Crawford 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough, New Zealand, $19). Familiar hint of eucalyptus and cilantro.

Merry Edwards 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley, $30). Rich and beautifully structured, reminiscent of kiwi and ripe citrus, hint of lime, just a touch of sweet white fruit.

Villa Maria 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough, New Zealand, $20). Tangy flavors of grapefruit, refreshing and citrusy.

It’s no wonder we often hear “it tastes like chicken” when someone wants to make light of the blank palette this bird is.

And what of chicken tarragon? This is a marriage made in heaven, because the tarragon breathes life into the bird while the juice of the chicken brings out the aromas of the tarragon. A perfect dinner pair is tarragon chicken and a mushroom risotto. The blend of textures and broad range of aromas from the four principle parts – chicken, tarragon, butter-sautéed rice and mushroom – offer a not-to-miss dining opportunity. [Hint for the cook: Find a tarragon chicken recipe that is oven-baked, freeing the hands for the labor-intensive stove-top preparation of the risotto.]

Some of the recipes mentioned above would be paired with Arneis (roasted chicken), Syrah (blackened chicken), oaky Chardonnay (cream sauce), or Pinot Grigio (artichoke lemon sauce). But tarragon chicken, and its herbal aromas, requires something with a bit more “oomph” than Pinot Grigio but lighter than an oaked Chardonnay.

For this, Emiliana Natura 2010 Chardonnay (Valle de Casablanca, Chile, $11) steps into the breach. Fresh citrusy aromas and light, unoaked palate impression ensure a wine that is medium-bodied yet minerally enough to pair with the tarragon flavors of this dish. The Emiliana vineyards are farmed organically, which should also make the wine more palatable to buyers. The tiny amount of Sauvignon Blanc (about 1%) that is blended in before bottling probably accounts for the tangy accent.

Composed principally of tomatoes, seafood stock, herbs, and a range of fish and shellfish morsels, bouillabaise is a richly textured one-pot meal, but with numerous individual flavors and accents. The long-simmering integrates the flavors and brings the variety of ingredients into harmony. While filling the house with mouth-watering aromas – a great payoff in itself – the result is both heart-warming and intensely exotic.

So what wine goes with a dish so complex? A light red wine, maybe a lightly chilled Beaujolais or rosé would fit, and the natural acidity would bring out the flavors in the dish. But my first thoughts turn to Chablis or other, French-style, chardonnay-based wines. (Chablis – at least that made at its origin, in France – is a chardonnay, not to be confused with bottles of generic wine in the U.S. that incorrectly appropriate the moniker “Chablis” for just any white wine.)

The cool, refreshing flavors of the wine match the finely tuned accents achieved by the dish. One caveat, though. Bouillabaisse is a hearty, some say peasant, dish so you need a wine that you can quaff with pleasure. Stay away from the broad palate of the white Burgundies. The affordable line of wines from Louis Jadot are a perfect match for this dish.

Louis Jadot 2009 Chablis ($25). Aromas evocative of fresh fruit and springtime, smooth flavors melding melon and tropical fruit with a tinge of grapefruit tanginess. Score: 87

Louis Jadot 2008 Chardonnay ($15). Finely crafted and smooth, with flavors of apricot and white peach, finishing with a hint of nutmeg. Score: 86

Louis Jadot 2009 Mâcon-Villages ($15). Crisp, clean, refreshing, white peach and ripe pear flavors, soft finish. Score: 86

American playwright Elmer Rice was certainly on to something. Any decent sparkling wine can convey pleasure and elegance, but Champagne will always be a breed apart. And one of the best things about this very special pleasure is that it goes with nearly any food – and any time of day, but more on that later.

We dined with Didier Depond, president of Champagne Salon and Champagne Delamotte, to test this thesis. The meal was at Bourbon Steak, the graceful dining establishment in Georgetown’s Four Seasons Hotel. The fare included oysters on the half shell, Ahi Tuna Tartare with mint and toasted sesame oil, marinated Angus Tenderloin, Nova Scotia Halibut, Glazed Salmon, and Fresh Louisiana Gulf Shrimp with cocktail sauce.

With such a wide range of flavors, any single wine would have struggled to survive. But the sparkle in sparkling wines serves as a perfect foil for the multitude of flavors, simultaneously enhancing the essence of each dish and cleansing the palate between bites.

Fortunately, there were four bottles of Delamotte and Salon bubbly on the table. The non-vintage Delamotte Brut was delicious and nicely balanced, creating a perfect platform for the many flavors at the table. This was followed by a Delamotte 1999 Blanc de Blancs, a wine with terrific body and constant bead, bright Chardonnay fruit to stand up to the food.

In a surprising turn, the Delamotte non-vintage Brut Rosé was served after the 1999, but it possessed some heft and texture that worked especially well with the tuna tartare. We closed out the tasting with the Champagne Salon 1997 Champagne a wine that was both sumptuous and elegant, expertly blending breezy citrus accents with deeper green apple and hazelnut flavors. This wine went beautifully with the glazed salmon and Nova Scotia Halibut.

Now, about that “any time of day” thing: Mr. Depond breezily suggested that Champagne at breakfast is perfectly fine, in fact, quite a wonderful way to start the day. Of course, many Americans hide their Champagne in frivolous drinks like Mimosas and quaff these without guilt. So why not spare Mr. Depond’s wonderful wines the indignity of being blended with orange juice? Why not sip flutes of bubbly with breakfast?

I can almost see your eyebrows raised in agreement.