So, quick, let’s drink them up while the sun still shines. And I can’t think of a more summer-like white than Pinot Grigio. Long thought to be an insipid Italian excuse for white wine, the new styles are attracting more attention with their focus on bright fruit, tingly acidity, and citrus accents.

Pairing Pinot Grigio with summer fare – especially the grilled delights that we cling to as the summer sun sets – is quite easy given the wine’s versatility. The wine easily goes with pork, fowl, and seafood, fresh vegetables and steamed shellfish, and a long list of other food that is best served in the heat of the backyard barbecue.

In the past, I’ve paired it with a range of warm weather dishes, like tomato mozzarella salad, vinegar-based salad dressings, white pizza, salad with apples and nuts, sweet and spicy couscous, lemon-dill seafood salad, and assorted grilled seafood.

The key to appreciating Pinot Grigio is not to mistake it for a serious wine. It’s pleasant and fruity, it’s usually off-dry although some incarnations are finished “soft,” which is to say a tiny bit sweet, and it is laced with just enough acidity to give it structure and backbone – at least the new releases are.

So here are some to consider:

Castello di Gabbiano 2008 Pinot Grigio (Venezia, $10). Easy and light. Very refreshing; blended with a bit of garganega and chardonnay. Great match for summer food.

Villa Russiz 2007 Pinot Grigio (Collio, $34). Green apple, citrusy accent, zippy acidity, broad flavors, very refreshing, elegant beyond other PGs.

Vino dei Fratelli 2009 Pinot Grigio (Venezia, $11). Light, fresh, and appealing. Refreshing citrusy palate with lemon zest accents.

Stonehouse Dining Room

The Stonehouse is a small and secluded restaurant and the winner of numerous awards, including Wine Spectator’s Best of Award of Excellence.  Jerry has overseen the wine there for nearly five years, since the historic property completed an extensive (and expensive) renovation.  He noted that the majority of visitors and locals alike want to drink local wines, so Jerry keeps his inventory about half domestic and half imported.  Jerry also enjoys offering a few exclusive wines by the glass, “I always pour Krug Grand Cuvée by the glass, and currently we’re pouring glasses of 2003 Chateau D”Yquem.”

Solomon Hills

Mollydooker. Among the exhibitors is Brian Pasch, blogger at weloveshiraz.com and representative of Mollydooker Wines. The Weekly Wine Pick has already reviewed Mollydooker’s the Boxer, and I covered the Scooter Merlot. Today, I had the opportunity to be among the few people to get an early tasting of the 2009 vintage, which is exceptional. These are very big, high-alcohol wines that are well balanced, extra rich, and silky smooth. Enjoy them with your summer grillings. Today, a personal favorite was the Blue Eyed Boy Shiraz, which is bursting with fruit and richness. There will be more coverage of Mollydooker wines at the live logging session latter.

Canoe Ridge. Next, I tasted some of the local wine from Walla Walla. Presented by the winemaker, Ned Morris, Canoe Ridge wines are made in an old world style. He offered an Alsatian-styled dry Riesling, a Merlot and a Cabernet Sauvignon. My favorite was the Cabernet, which offers rich cedar and delivers big, showing Walla Walla’s greatness.

Lake Chelan AVA Wines. Washington State’s newest American Viticultural Area–Lake Chelan–also hosted a table with more than a dozen fantastic wines. This region is a bit cooler than others in Washington State, and its Northern-facing slopes offer climates to grow some cool-climate grapes like Pinot Noir and Riesling. The wines were so good that it was hard to pick just a few to highlight! Among the most interesting was a small-production Pinot Noir made by Judy Phelps of Hard Row to Hoe winery (see the website for story behind this title). It was full of smoky oak yet retained a rich fruity flavor. There were no vegetal or off notes on this one. It was delicious. It’s a home run, particularly given it is the first Pinot produced by this winery! Production is small for this yet-to-be released wine, but check the website to see if you can eventually get your hands on one.

The Chelan table also featured Vin du Lac wines, presented by the winemaker, Dreux Dillingham. Among their offerings is a perfect, fresh summer sipper–a dry and refreshing Riesling. Like the Hard to Hoe Pinot, it is grown on Northern-facing slopes, which are cooler, ensuring a crisp and refreshing quality. Vin Du Lac also had a fantastic red table, which is a blend of a number of grapes. It delivers big for a moderate price and is available around the nation. Keep an eye out for these Chelan AVA wines or search for them on wine-searcher or at winery websites.

Steak time, and the next two wines had gone into the decanter right before Scott and Shannon arrived with the steaks and a back-up bottle of 2004 Turley Duarte Vineyard, just in case. I received these bottles of Emblem Oso Vineyard and Emblem Rutherford from the marketing rep, who suggested the wines would be great for Father’s day as they were made by the father-son team of Michael Mondavi and Robert Mondavi, Jr. They were definitely great for the Friday night before Father’s day. I served the wines simultaneously for comparison sake, and I think we all agreed immediately that these wines shared far more differences than similarities. The 2006 Emblem Oso Vineyard was inviting and approachable, with loads of bright red cherries and vanilla. The soft tannins provided a flexible structure that matched perfectly with both the steak and the cheesy potato gratin we were eating. The 2006 Emblem Rutherford was a much taller order. The deep dark fruit in this wine’s nose warned me that this wine was way too young to be opened now. It is dark, chewy and firm with a backbone crafted by fruit that is distinctly Rutherford style. While the Oso Vineyard was open to all senses, the Rutherford was still zipped up even after an hour in the decanter. Both wines were big, maybe even bigger than the sub-$50 price tag suggests. The Oso is ready now, and the Rutherford will pay dividends in 5-10 years.

Adjacent to Executive Hotel Vintage Court on the border of San Francisco’s Union Square and Nob Hill, Masa’s Restaurant offers superlative fine dining service and exquisite California French cuisine elevated to new heights by Executive Chef Gregory Short.  Chef Short and Alan Murray delight in presenting nightly five- and nine-course degustation fine dining menus highlighting the best of the season and region, the restaurant’s 800-strong wine list and otherworldly cocktails at the exclusive bar.

Alan also thought it was worth mentioning another wine he is extremely fond of:  Parr Selections Syrah “Purisima Mountain” Santa Ynez Valley.  ”It is an example of ripe but low alcohol winemaking that showcases great fruit that can speak for itself. Very easy to drink.”  This limited production wine is part of a  label founded by Rajat Parr, currently the star sommelier at Michael Mina’s RN74.

Not surprisingly, one of the state’s first wineries—the Williamsburg Winery–produces some of the state’s most exciting wines. The winery produces top quality because its founder, Patrick Duffeler, invests in top talent. In 2002, he brought on Napa Valley winemaker Mathew Meyer, whose credentials include studying oenology and viticulture school at the University of California-Davis. Meyers launched his career at Grgich Hills winery—the winery started by Napa pioneer winemaker Mike Grgich, who made the Chardonnay that shook the world when it won at the 1976 tasting of Paris.

Meyers then went on to make award winning wines at Heitz Cellar, which makes some exclusive wines near St. Helena in Napa Valley. Among them is the Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, which is a highly regarded premium Napa wine. In 1999, the Wine Spectator selected the 1974 vintage to be it as one of the Top 12 wines of the 20th Century.

Not surprisingly, the Williamsburg winery has been making some award winning wines on Meyer’s clock. Among them are awards from prestigious UK-based Decanter magazine, which dubbed the winery’s he 2006 Acte Chardonnay as among the “world’s best wines.” That is pretty substantial praise for one of Virginia’s humble wines! This wine region surely have come a long way. And this wine retails on the Winery website for just $16. Who says Virginia’s quality wines are not affordable?

So start tasting them. Meyer recently gave me a tasting of some his wonderful wines at the winery, and all were quite impressive! Among them were:

The Willamsburg Reserve Chardonnay, 2006. This wine is made fermented and aged in French oak and undergoes malolactic fermentation, resulting a wine with toasty and creamy qualities. The winery recommends serving it with “grilled swordfish, steak, grilled prawns, pheasant, and ‘duck a l‘orange.’” If you serve it with steak, make sure you include a nice creamy béarnaise sauce! Decanter awarded this wine as “commended” in 2009. It retails for just $24 a bottle on the winery website online.

Sir Samuel Argall Dry Riesling, 2007. The grapes from this wine come from all the way from Washington State, where Riesling thrives. As a result, it cannot be sold in inter-state commerce because of unfortunate wine regulations. But if you are lucky enough to see it at the retail level in Virginia or if you make you way to the winery, grab one—or more—bottles. This is a light, crisp dry wine with a lemony profile. It’s the perfect match for a light fish dish with lemon or something oily like fried chicken as it will cleanse the palate between bites. It’s a refreshing picnic or summer sipping wine. And it retails for just $10.50 a bottle.

Gabriel Archer Reserve, 2005. This Bordeaux (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc) blend combines only select wines each year from the best barrels of the vintage. It is only made in the better vintage years, ensuring it always meets a certain standard of quality. Like the other reds, it was rich with good acidity, and soft and smooth tannins. Decanter gave the 2006 Gabriel Archer Reserve a bronze metal, and gave the 2005 a “commended” award. It retails for $32 on the winery’s website.

The Virginia Trianon. This wine is the Winery’s Cabernet Franc, a grape that is doing quite well in Virginia. It has nice acidity and soft tannins, with red fruit flavors (cherry and raspberry). It retails for $32 a bottle.

Adagio, 2007. Last but not least was the Adagio, the winery’s most premium wine, carrying a price tag of $65. It is a rich blend of 40 percent Petite Verdot, 40 percent Merlot, and 20 percent Cabernet Franc. The Winery describes it as: “An initial hint of black cherries progresses into more mature dark fruits such as figs and dates. Mixed in with the fruit is a lovely note of fresh cocoa, along with a bit of soy and eucalyptus. Earthiness and minerality blend agreeably with the fruit.”

You can look for these around town, in Virginia wine shops, or shop online at the winery’s website. Another option is to drive a couple hours to the winery and enjoy them there!

Like me, they had the delight of visiting the winery. The Artesa facility itself is a sight to see, one of Napa’s most unique. Indeed, it is almost all located underground with a grass roof. The ultra modern interior includes original artwork of the artist in residence, and the tasting room staff and tour guides are unpretentious and friendly.

Artesa stands for “craftsman,” which is appropriate for a winery that crafts its wine with great care under the leadership of their winemaker, Mark Beringer. Artesa achieves a different, softer style because they do not crush any red grapes (they do crush white grapes releasing juice to be fermented without skins). They leave red wine grapes to begin fermentation inside the skins, which break open on their own and release juice. When making red wines most winemakers gently crush the grapes to release the juice. Crushing is perfectly fine and makes wonderful wines, but just a different style.

Aresta’s no-crush approach makes wines that are softer and fruitier because fewer bitter flavors from skins and seeds are released into the wines. Their wines are rich and velvety with a softer style than many “big” Napa Valley reds, yet they are still wonderfully flavorful and complex.

Artesa’s Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are grown in its Napa Valley Carneros-based winery, while some of the other red grapes are grown in warmer areas in Sonoma and Napa. Carneros has a surprisingly cooler climate than the rest of Napa. At a visit during one of the hottest  weeks this summer (while it was well over 100 degrees just an hour away in Sacramento), Carneros was down-right chilly by comparison, with cool breezes coming off the San Pablo Bay. Meanwhile, that week, unbearably hot weather plagued Pinot Noir grapes at Oregon vineyards, which are considered some of the best sites for Pinot Noir in the country because their usually cooler climate. Carneros is indeed a particularly unique place. In addition to cool breezes fog blankets vineyards in the morning, keeping grapes cool before it is burned off by bright sunlight. These factors produce good ripening of grapes with a relatively long-hang time on the vine.  They can then develop complex, fruity flavors and sugar, while maintaining enough acid to make balanced wines.

Not surprisingly, Artesa produces fantastic Pinot Noir wines, at all price points. Their value-priced Pinot Noir has a delicate profile–as Pinot Noir should–but it is still packed with fruit flavors and spice with complexity. You can get the 2006 Pinot Noir Carneros for $20-$25.

Artesa Chardonnay is a particularly nice, balanced wine, in contrast to other California Chardonnay wines that some say receive excessive oak or other treatments. Fifty percent of the wine is fermented in oak barrels, is aged with the yeast (aged “on its lees”), and receives malolactic fermentation. The other half is fermented in stainless steel and does not undergo malolactic fermentation. In addition, the French oak barrels are 34 percent new (which extracts more intense flavor) and 66 percent used (which exacts subtle if any flavor). French oak imparts flavors that are less intense than American oak, which is commonly used in California Chardonnay.

Also worth hunting down are Artesa Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot wines. If you visit you can taste some of them at the winery in Carneros, but the grapes are sourced from their vineyards in warmer areas—one in Napa’s Atlas Peak area and the other in Alexander Valley in Sonoma. These reds offer opulently rich and velvety flavor and texture with deep, dark fruit flavors. Try the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa/Sonoma made with 55 percent Napa grapes and 45 percent Sonoma-sourced grapes.  It is aged in French oak barrels for 24 months. It is available for $20-$25.  Total Wine has a Napa Valley only Cabernet for $29.99, worth trying.

If you have a bigger budget and are willing to do mail order, Aresta’s single vineyard and limited release wines are nothing short of fantastic. Artesa also markets wines under the label of Ridgeline, which are quite delicious. I recently mail-ordered from the winery half a case to enjoy this summer. You might also locate some on on Wine Searcher. Check out the others available on their website.

Fandango has won awards from Wine Spectator and DiRoNA.  Their fantastic menu touches Italian and French cuisine, and entrées set diners back less than $30 on average.

The Arroyo Seco appellation is dominated by Chardonnay and Reisling.  The vines reach deep into sand and gravel soil which is littered with large stones called Greenfield pebbles that absorb the warm mid-day sunshine.

A search on Wine-Searcher for the 2008 Mercy Chardonnay came up empty likely due to its limited production, so keep an eye out for it on the wine list at the next restaurant you visit.

Pierre-Marie Clape

Last week on his blog, Brooklynguy asked his readers which wine they would select from the wine list at Bleu Provence in Naples, Florida, if they had $100 to spend.  Lots of people responded, and the choices were diverse.  We couldn’t resist posing the challenge directly to the restaurant’s sommelier, Jacques Cariot.  Msr. Cariot also happens to be the owner of Bleu Provence, and his wife Lysielle is the chef.  The restaurant has been the couple’s baby for the past 10 years, and they have carefully nurtured it into a Florida dining destination.

In response to my request for a recommendation, he pleaded with me to choose a dish from his menu to help him make the pairing.  Saying that if I were there I would no doubt order the Loup de Mer baked with Chablis beurre blanc sauce, and Jacques enthusiastically recommended the 2005 Auguste Clape Saint-Peray.  ”It is rich and mature, and has the complexity and craftsmenship of a $150 Meursault, for less than half the price.”  The wine is a blend of Marsanne and Roussane grapes from a small appelation in the Northern Rhone Valley.  In his review, Robert Parker noted floral and mineral notes and scored the wine an 88.