There are just a handful of wines that have the acidity and fruitiness to truly refresh us. Pinot Grigio, Torrontes, off-dry Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc are the first to come to mind.

The bright breezy flavors of Sauvignon Blanc are the highlight of many wines. In the U.S., Australia, and South America, the wines are known by the name of the grape, but in France, where some of the most elegant wines are made, “SBs” are labeled as Sancerre, a Loire Valley wine with herbal, flinty characteristics, or Pouilly Fumé, also from the Loire Valley and featuring a hint of smoke on the palate. White wines from Bordeaux are also made from Sauvignon Blanc grapes.

Here are some recent finds, all worthy or our attention before fall sets in and we abandon the delicious white wines of summer.

  From Loire Valley:
Michel Redde 2007 Pouilly-Fumé La Moynerie ($30). Rich and smooth, yet zesty, with lemon peel accents on finish.

Michel Redde 2007 Sancerre Les Tuilieres ($30). Fresh and delightfully fruity, pineapple, grapefruit, green apple accents, and a light flinty touch. A mouthful of zesty, spirited wine.

Others:
Dancing Bull 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (California, $12). Refreshing and forward, with pineapple and mango on nose and palate.

Emiliana Natura 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Chile, $11). Brisk and lively, easily quaffable, highlighting lemon/lime flavors.

Girard 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley, $23). A distinctive wine, with accents of herbs and lime, soft and approachable.

Merry Edwards 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley, $30). Beautifully structured, flavors of kiwi and ripe citrus, hint of lime, just a touch of sweet white fruit.

Paul Dolan 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (Mendocino County, $18). A bright beautiful display, with lemon citrus and orange peel flavors, medium body, modest finish.

Plozner 2007 Sauvignon (Fruili, $17). Slight grapefruit and citrus on nose, softly fragrant and zesty, apple and grapefruit flavors, nectarine accents.

Robert Oatley 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Western Australia, $17). Lime, citrus and green grass on nose, limey flavors, tropical fruit on finish.

“SB” as it’s known to admirers around the world brings us such memorable wines as white Bordeaux, Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé from France and Fumé Blanc from California. In the United States, the regions best known for Sauvignon Blanc are Dry Creek Valley and Russian River Valley, both in California’s Sonoma County. Here the soil and climate are ideal for producing fruit that balances the acidity and fresh citrusy flavors that are the hallmark of well-made SBs.

New Zealand has also developed a following for its Sauvignon Blanc. Here, the SBs take on a slightly more lime-influenced accent (versus the oft-cited lemon zest of California SBs), and are well suited to raw bar servings like oysters on the half shell.

Dishes that go with Sauvignon Blanc also emphasize the fresh, light flavors of spring. Seafood salads, lime vinaigrette, orange chicken with fennel, dill sauces, gazpacho, and steamed shellfish are perfect with this wine. SB is wonderful as an aperitif, served on the deck next to the grill, or during the meal itself.

You can find your own favorite recipes, but here are some recommended wines to go with them.

Dry Creek Vineyard 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley, $16). With grapefruit and lime aromas, and lemon, lime, and grapefruit flavors, this is like the poster child for springtime wines.

Foppiano 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley, $18). Floral nose with pineapple and green apple dominant, fresh and crisp, long finish.

Kim Crawford 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough, New Zealand, $19). Familiar hint of eucalyptus and cilantro.

Merry Edwards 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley, $30). Rich and beautifully structured, reminiscent of kiwi and ripe citrus, hint of lime, just a touch of sweet white fruit.

Villa Maria 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough, New Zealand, $20). Tangy flavors of grapefruit, refreshing and citrusy.

Steak time, and the next two wines had gone into the decanter right before Scott and Shannon arrived with the steaks and a back-up bottle of 2004 Turley Duarte Vineyard, just in case. I received these bottles of Emblem Oso Vineyard and Emblem Rutherford from the marketing rep, who suggested the wines would be great for Father’s day as they were made by the father-son team of Michael Mondavi and Robert Mondavi, Jr. They were definitely great for the Friday night before Father’s day. I served the wines simultaneously for comparison sake, and I think we all agreed immediately that these wines shared far more differences than similarities. The 2006 Emblem Oso Vineyard was inviting and approachable, with loads of bright red cherries and vanilla. The soft tannins provided a flexible structure that matched perfectly with both the steak and the cheesy potato gratin we were eating. The 2006 Emblem Rutherford was a much taller order. The deep dark fruit in this wine’s nose warned me that this wine was way too young to be opened now. It is dark, chewy and firm with a backbone crafted by fruit that is distinctly Rutherford style. While the Oso Vineyard was open to all senses, the Rutherford was still zipped up even after an hour in the decanter. Both wines were big, maybe even bigger than the sub-$50 price tag suggests. The Oso is ready now, and the Rutherford will pay dividends in 5-10 years.

Girard’s vintner, Pat Roney, believes the secret of being a successful winemaker is unwavering commitment to quality, which is passed on to people at very reasonable prices (this sauvignon blanc is about $16). In his tenure as the head of Giard, he has acquired prime vineyard sites and brought in equally prime talent in his wine maker, Marco Digiulio. This team prides themselves on making rich and stylish wines with soft, integrated tannins and balanced fruit, best displayed in their Artistry Proprietary Blend ($40) and the Petite Syrah ($28).