Piero Antinori of the famous Tuscan winemaking house of the same name knows this perhaps better than anyone. His wines, elegant in the glass and as brilliantly colored as a Tintoretto painting, are – nevertheless – best enjoyed as an accompaniment to a fine meal.

So it makes sense that when he brought his family’s 600-year history of winemaking to California, he would want to make food-friendly wines for Americans too. In the 1980s, he bought land on the summit of Atlas Peak in Napa Valley, with spectacular views of the valley below and the sprawling vineyards that supply the raw material for his new wines. The winery was originally named after the land, Atlas Peak, but Antinori recently reconfigured the estate and renamed it Antica, a fact reported earlier on WeeklyWinePick.com.

Under the watchful eye of Marchese Antinori, and constant oversight by Glenn Salva, Antica produces some of the richest and approachable Cabernets in the Napa Valley. We met at Circa (3010 Clarendon Boulevard, Arlington, 703-522-3010) and sampled a range of vintages of the Cabernet accompanied by a serving of Wild Mushroom Ravioli. The ravioli were served with artichoke hearts, cremini mushrooms, and beurre noisette, and topped with herbs and goat cheese. The complexity of the flavors, spikes that raised the interest of the savory mushroom ravioli beneath, begged for a similarly complex red wine.

With Salva’s usual grace and patience, he explained not only the history of the estate but the vintage conditions of each of the wines we sampled. There was the perfectly aged 2004 Antica Cabernet Sauvignon, with scents of currant, plum, and dark fruit. A supple though austere wine braced by tannins evidently softened by age.

The 2005 Cab was richer and more complex, and opened with dark chocolate and tobacco aromas, with flavors of figs, black cherry and plum over ripe tannins. The 2006 Cab was a bit tangier and more puckery than the refined 2004 and 2005, demonstrating the impact of even a single year of additional aging on the mouthfeel of such a rich wine. Still, its black fruit flavors and vivacious acidity ensured that it will be a wine to return to later.

The 2007 Cab was exotically aromatic and carried hints of Eastern spices on the nose. With terrific intensity and multiple layers, this was my favorite of the afternoon. The big fruit and explosive approach shows evidence of future star-quality. The 2008 was also a tremendous wine, with chocolate and roasted coffee bean aromas, tinged by hints of earth and spice, with a soft finish.

The 2009 Cab, the vintage currently on the market (along with some remainders of the 2008), has heavenly aromas of violets and red fruit, featuring blueberry and black cherry flavors on a big, young frame.

With Antinori’s vision and Salva’s management of wine at Antica, the property will enjoy continued success and the buyer will enjoy many vintages of fine Cabernet Sauvignon.

The cellar at Canonica

Recently, we reviewed a bevy of outstanding white wines from Italy that Empson imports to the American market. That was a statement about the quality in whites coming from a country known for its red wines. As good as the whites are – and Empson leads the U.S. import market in proving how good Italian wines can be – the country will always be known for their red wines.

From tip to tail, from the northern climes of Piedmont to the toe of Calabria, red wines are made to quaff with friends or pair with food. At the top of the tower are Barolo, Barbaresco, Brunello di Montalcino, and Chianti Classico, but Italy’s spectacular display of internationally famous wines offers a slew of other picks, including Barbera and Amarone, not to mention the Super Tuscans that blend French-origin grapes with Italy’s indigenous varietals.

To prove the point, I selected a blind sample of red wines from the Empson portfolio. Didn’t bother to cherry-pick; didn’t have to. Here are the results.

Bortoluzzi 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Venezia Giulia, $19). Rich, robust, black fruit flavors with a silky touch of spice. Score: 86

Canonica a Cerreto 2007 Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, $39). Highly aromatic with hazelnuts and violets up front, light flavors but silky smooth, highlights of soft fleshy red fruit. Score: 89

Castello di Querceto 2006 Cignale Colli della Toscana Centrale (Tuscany, 90% Cab, 10% Mer., $85). Rich and sumptuously textured, dark red fruit flavors, chocolate and tobacco accents. Score: 90

Santadi Rocca Rubia 2008 Carignano del Sulcis Riserva ($27). Black pepper up front, dense dark fruit on nose and palate, accented by crushed walnut and dark chocolate, sumptuous textures, dark chewy fruit. Score: 90

Santadi Terre Brune 2006 Carignano del Sulcis ($?). Soft earthy scents of mushrooms, dried fruit and soft textures, Old World style, dried fruit featuring cranberry and black cherry. Score: 87

Shardana 2007 Valli di Porto Pino (Sardinia, $32). Cranberry and black cherry aromas, coffee accents with dark fruit flavors, lasting and smooth with a bit of spice on finish. Score: 87

Speri 2009 Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso (Veneto, $28). Rich and smooth, dark red fruit with black pepper accent. Score: 86

Tenuta Cocci Grifoni 2010 Tellus (Marche, $15). Earthy, medium bodied, great with pasta and red sauce. Score: 86

Following that opening chapter of Edwards’ vinous life, she took the reins in Sonoma County’s Matanzas Creek Winery, honing her skills over a ten-year span, ending the stint only to become a freelance consultant for vineyards up and down the Pacific Coast.

It may have been in Oregon that she discovered the key to great Pinot Noir, but it was – and still is – in Sonoma’s Russian River Valley that she shapes gorgeous wines from that confounding grape. Together with husband, Ken Coopersmith, the couple manages five estate vineyards and produces wines that continue to stand out in every Pinot Noir tasting.

But, true to her perfectionist core, Merry resists the temptation to settle for what she has already accomplished. As quoted on her website, “People frequently ask what is the best wine I have ever made. I tell them it’s not made yet!”

With each bottle of Merry Edwards Pinot Noir, I can’t help but nod in agreement with her.

Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast, $36). Smooth yet with a lively accent, rich fruit, intriguing accent of black licorice, soft textures. Score: 88

Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard (Russian River Valley, $54). Dark cherry flavors, light hint of tobacco, sage-like notes, savory accent. Score: 92

Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch (Russian River Valley, $57). Broad palate of dark fruit, accented by mineral notes, pleasingly spicy finish. Score: 92

Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir Meredith Estate (Russian River Valley, $57). Rich ripe red fruit with a berrylike taste, smooth textures, hint of milk chocolate on finish. Score: 93

What is the first thing that comes to mind? Volcanoes? Mobsters? Square pizza?

 How about wine? Though often overshadowed by the big boys of Italy such as the Brunellos, Barolos and Super-Tuscans, the pedigree of wine from this Mediterranean island can be just as compelling. At a recent lunch with winemaker Alessio Planeta, I got a chance to pair a number of southern Italy’s best with dishes from one of DC’s finest northern Italian kitchens at Ristorante Tosca.

Alessio is as humble as they come, and a gracious host who went out of his way to help us understand what makes his wines and the wines of Sicily unique. He poured six specimens, three whites and three reds, which matched up with four delectable courses. The first was a spread of apps that included Prosciutto de Parma with pickled Pioppini mushrooms and a 12-year Balsamic, grilled baby octopus with braised Brussels sprouts and sea urchin sauce, and a salad of radicchio and Bartlett pears with a Goronzola terrine and toasted walnuts.

My first wine was the 2010 Planeta Carricante. It is a native varietal that comes from their vineyards near Mount Etna. According to Alessio, Carricante’s structure is similar to the wines of Alsace, and an ideal 5-7 year cellaring candidate. The 2010 was tart at first but softened nicely over the course of an hour, offering aromas of green apple, flowers and great acidity. Next was the 2009 Cometa Fiano, which was rich and fat with lots of potential. There was ample slate and chalk on the nose, which comes from the chalky soils near Planeta’s first winery, Ulmo. The wine’s name is derived from the family crest signifying the “surprise of the southwest comet.” No oak is used, resulting in an incredibly pure example of a full-bodied white.

The third white, the 2009 Chardonnay, had a very oaky nose but a fresh balance of oak and fruit in the mouth. It is aged for ten months in 225-liter French oak barrels prior to bottling, and was a great pair to the pasta course of Tortelli filled with Robiola cheese and black truffle with leeks in a Porcini mushroom sauce. Equally good with that dish was the first red wine of the day, a 2010 Cerasuolo di Vittoria. Vittoria is Sicily’s only D.O.C.G. and the wine is named for it’s cherry-red color. Made of Nero d’Avola and Frappato grapes grown in sandy soils near the shore, it was smokey with hints of chocolate and strawberry. The style reminded me of a Cru Beaujolais and did not overpower the texture of the pasta or the flavor of the black truffles.

The next two reds were big, worthy opponents to the pancetta-wrapped beef tenderloin drenched in Chef Massimo Fabbri’s succulent oxtail sauce. The 2009 Dorilli Cerasuolo de Vittoria Classico D.O.C.G. is blended from the same varietals as the privious red, but all from the single vineyard named after the nearby Dorilli river. Alessio referred to the wine as the “Pinot Noir” of Sicily. It had a complex fruity character similar to a high-end Russian River Pinot, but it was not as spicy. If I had to pick a favorite of the afternoon, this wine was it by just a slight margin over the final wine, the 2007 Santa Cecilia Nero d’Avola. Alessio described this as his “Cru” – his effort to make the best Nero possible. “The vineyard allows the ability to make a serious wine, one that is more complex with great potential to age,” said Alessio. The wine is made at one of Planeta’s newest wineries, Contrada Buonivini. The family thought the land was so delightfully pure they preserved it by building an “invisible winery” completely underground. The wine had an impressive structure and a flavor profile that touched all areas of the mouth. I think it is one of those bottles that will be thought -provoking after ten years of cellaring.

Planeta’s wines are impressive examples of a wine region that should not be overlooked. It is evident that Alessio has a strong appreciation for the unique terroir expressed in the wines of his island, and is intent on preserving the native varietals that grow in his soils.

The tasting was hosted by Palm Bay International, which imports the wines of Planeta.

Well, maybe some of it is, and that’s the reason this reasoning has gotten traction. But so many quality Merlots are left out of the conversation. Beringer’s Merlots have been stupendous for years, especially the Bancroft Ranch. Pahlmeyer and Pride have Merlots that easily stand above the crowd. Etude’s bottlings are age-worthy, and Shafer Merlots – earlier to mature – provide instant gratification. I’d push any Pinot Noir off the table to make way for a Château St. Jean Merlot, and Joe Cafaro still makes Merlots that sing.

Then there’s Duckhorn, Havens, Keenan, St. Francis, Château Ste. Michelle, and Matanzas Creek. In fact, during an extensive tasting of Merlots for a cover story in Wine News a few years back, I concluded that almost any Merlot from the cooler climes of Carneros would be a special treat.

Through the years, Merlot styles have changed and, after the initial boom-years in the 1990s, better terroir has been chosen for plantings. Below are a few recent tasting notes that might offer a primer on the grape.

  Beringer 2008 (Napa Valley, $21). A rich ruby red, with coffee and licorice aromas hosting hints on dark berries and milk chocolate, forward flavors and nicely balanced. Score: 87

Beringer 2006 Howell Mountain Bancroft Ranch (Napa Valley, $75) Up-front aromas of coffee and dark chocolate, with latent dark berry aromas, soft tannins, sumptuous red fruit, and wonderfully balanced. Score: 93

Charles Krug 2008 (Napa Valley, $24). Deep and dense in color and aroma, black cherry and petrol like Pomerol, hefty body, rich textured and dense fruit flavors. Score: 91

Castello di Gabbiano 2007 Alleanza (Tuscany, $35). Soft red fruit, rich body, tangy acidity, dry impression but fruity finish. Score: 90

Columbia Crest 2007 Reserve (Columbia Valley $30). Delicate aromas but pungent flavors. Score: 88

http://www.pridewines.com/content/default1421.html

Kenny’s latest batch of wines is another example of his consistent quality.  All of them come from fruit grown on a 100 acre hillside vineyard in Alexander Valley, which is covered with blue stones and serpentine boulders.  He bottles the wines at three quality levels.  The entry level Baby Blue is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc, Syrah, Merlot, and Malbec.  It is truly a wine for everyone; a special occasion bottle for those on a budget or a daily drinker for the collector-types.  It has that soft richness to it that is commonly found in ultra-premium Napa Cabernets that have cellared for 10 or so years.

Kenny’s flagship Cabernets are good candidates for such cellaring.  The elegance of these complex and powerful reds needs time to emerge.  I brought the 2008 and 2009 to a dinner party full of wine-savvy friends and they were a big hit, though one person expressed regret that I was not able to bring vintages from earlier in the decade so that he could get a real sense of the wine’s potential.   I reminded him that with wine, good things come to those who wait.

Ask anyone about wine from Portugal and the first thing they mention is Port, that heavenly nectar that caps many a long repast. But like the cuisine, the red and white wines of Portugal are frequently left out of the conversation, a tragic mistake as anyone who has toured the country and sampled the wines will tell you.

  The best known winemaking regions include Dão, Duoro, and Vinho Verde, but I have very stylish wines from Alentejo, Algarve, Setúbal, and Bairrada, with each region tempting the palate with new flavors and unique sensations.

I recently tasted some delectable wines paired with grilled chicken, some ruggedly spicy and others with milder, more subtle accents. Although there would many Portuguese wines I would enjoy with these flavors, I settled on reds from Duoro.

Dow 2008 Vale do Bomfim (Duoro, Portugal, $12). This is a rich, succulent wine with dark fruit aromas, rich layers of dark fruit, and velvety textures. Flavors focus on black currant, plums, and soft ripe cherries, and the finish is pleasingly long.

So most of us have huddled inside our homes where the air conditioner groans under loads that violate manufacturers’ specs and wait for deliverance. As the perceptibly cooler air wafts about and slowly curbs the rising body temperature, thoughts turn to red wine.

What else? I’ve always said that A/C was invented to make it possible to drink red wine in summertime.

It seemed like a perfect time to test the reports of a superior vintage coming from California in 2007. Vintage scores in the high-90s by many wine publications suggest that there’s much to look forward to.

But why wait for the next anniversary or the hoped-for kid’s scholarship? With temperatures holding steady at Underworld levels, we need to take care of ourselves – - now.

Souverain 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley, $17). Scents of wet earth and oak, black cherry, plums on nose, currants, black cherry, soft textures, full body.

Dry Creek Vineyard 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry Creek Valley, $25). First impression is tobacco smoke and oak, with deep long lasting dark fruit aromas and flavors.

Ferrari-Carano 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley, $30). Black cherry, cassis and plums on the nose, same impression on the palate, dense cherry flavors, intense, long finish.

Rodney Strong 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (Alexander Valley, $45). Rich, dark fruit and licorice accents on the nose, followed by cranberry, plums, and cassis on the palate, with licorice and mint accents.

Sbragia Family Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Monte RossoVineyard (Sonoma Valley, $50). Black cherry, cola, and plums on nose and palate, soft approach, incredibly deep and textured, a magnificent wine.

Ferrari-Carano 2007 Tresor (Alexander Valley, $58). Rich vibrant aromas of dark fruit and earth notes, mocha and cassis dominates the flavor profile, layers of black cherry and boisenberry, soft silky finish.

Rodney Strong 2007 Rockaway Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley, $75). Brewed coffee aromas, with concentrated black cherry flavors, dense and chewy, soft tannins, hint of chocolate on finish.

Sbragia Family Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Rancho del Oso (Howell Mountain, Napa Valley, $75). Superb balance, richly textured dense and concentrated, reminiscent of black fruit, herbs, and subtle earth tones, this is a keeper.

Chateau St. Jean 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Cinq Cepages (Sonoma County, $75). Packed with black plum and black cherry aromas, dense and chewy, black plum flavors accented by roasted coffee bean, slight hints of mocha on finish.

Few recipes fit this season better than cassoulet, a soulful French dish that easily counters the Gallic reputation for elite-only foods. Cassoulet – an aromatic amalgam of sausage, veal, pork, duck, beans, tomatoes, vegetables, and myriad flavor accents – is first cooked on the stove but then finished in the oven. The result is both exotic and heart-warming, exactly the kind of meal that defines “comfort food.”

Perhaps the best version I’ve had in recent years is served at Bistrot Lepic and Wine Bar (1736 Wisconsin Avenue, NW, 202-333-0111), a cozy restaurant whose fabulous wine selection is a suitable accompaniment for the establishment’s excellence in food. Le Cassoulet du Bistrot Lepic has lamb, Toulouse garlic sausage, and duck confit as the savory components, nestled comfortably in a terrine of cannellini, tomato, herbs and other flavorings.

So what to drink with this wonderful offering? A red from Côtes du Rhône would be fitting, and Bistrot Lepic’s wine list includes the 2007 from Jean Luc Colombo Les Abeilles, an approachable yet elegant wine. But I chose a red from Madiran, a region near the Pyrenees, with deep flavors and rugged textures that matched the room-filling aromas of the Cassoulet. Château Laffitte-Teston 2006 Vielles Vignes, a Madiran red based on the somewhat obscure Tannat grape, worked wonders with the dish. Its full flavors and piquant acidity stood up to the complex flavors of the Cassoulet and was still an exciting finish to the meal when the food was gone.

Dick Rosano has offered his insights on wine in many publications and radio shows, and is a regular contributor to WeeklyWinePick.com.

Beth has been with El Gaucho for eight years, and recently took the reins of Head Sommelier from James Parsons.  She describes the restaurant as “a place for people to celebrate life’s milestones.” I remember eating there 5 years ago, and no fewer than 4 people were constantly ready to attend to our needs.  ”While many people come here for our immense selection of big name, quality driven wines, I use our by-the-glass program to highlight the exceptional wines from Washington.”  On any given night at El Gaucho, you might get lucky enough to be joined by a guest sommelier, normally winemakers such as Marcus Notaro of Col Solare, who walk the dining room and pour samples of their wine. Beth also coordinates the “Legendary Swirl” event in March, at which over 25 top Washington wineries pour their best juice.  El Gaucho is Seattle’s spot for an epic feast.