John suggested Peay Vineyards “La Bruma” Syrah, Sonoma Coast.  The wine is deep purple and offers dark berries and fig on the nose.  The wine is medium-bodied, and tightly wound at first so it would benefit from decanting.  Bacon fat, berry and graphite are ushered in by supple tannins.

John has worked side-by-side with James Beard Award-winning chef Nancy Oakes for 14 years.  ”At Boulevard I take a global view of wine, offering a little bit of everything.  Our wines by the glass are chosen to fit snugly with food, and our bottle list is readable, not daunting,” said John.

Find this wine at a retail store near you using Wine-Searcher.com

I was especially impressed with the 2007 Plummer Vineyard Petite Sirah.  One word best describes it:  Viscosity.  This wine is pitch black; seemingly impenetrable.  I anticipated major intensity from this wine, but was pleasantly surprised by suppleness and elegance.  Weighty but not meaty, the wine offered ample flavors of wild blueberry and currant.  Plummer Vineyard is owned by Bianchi Winery’s neighboor.  Bianchi’s winemaker, Tom Lane, buys fruit for his “Signature Selection” wines from them and other reputable growers.  All of the fruit that goes into the winery’s “Heritage Selection” wines is grown on their property in Paso Robles.  Depending onthe vintage, the wine will always be close to 100% Petite Sirah will spend between 19-30 months in oak.

Despite it being the start of the busiest time of year in wine country, Tom Lane spent half an hour with me on the phone enlightening me about the people and process behind the wines.  Bianchi grows Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah on 28 acres surrounding the winery.  They buy fruit from growers they have strong relationships with to craft white and additional  red wines from varietals such as Refosco and Sangiovese.  Asked to briefly summarize his winemaking philosophy, Tom said he endeavors to “accentuate the grape first, then layer in other qualities.”  This statement rang true in the wines I sampled.  Tom aims to yeild 3.5-4 tons of fruit per acre, thinning heavily before veraison (the onset of ripening).  This, combined with the use of soil moisture monitors and vertical shoot positioning trellis systems to increase air flow around the fruit, ensure each berry gets the royal treatment.

After engaging me with a few questions about which styles of wine I preferred, and offering a few optional suggestions, Gino settled on what he described as “one of the best values in Pinot Noir” he has seen in awhile, a wine from Fiddlehead Cellars.  ”Fiddlestix is nestled between Sanford and Sea Smoke (vineyards), and is cultivated by stewards who stress biodynamic practices.”  The wine is named after the mile marker (728) on Santa Rosa Road in Santa Rita Hills, and offers elegant layers of cherry and white pepper on the palate.

At Delicias, Gino endeavors to let taste be the guide to his guests’ wine choices.  To that end, he priced all of his by the glass offerings the same, and includes such quality producers as Flowers Winery.  In addition to an extensive list of bottles, he has implemented a creative wine flight program that allows guests to compare old world versus new word wines, challenge themselves by evaluating his selections blind, and custom flights built to one’s specific tastes.

If you have the pleasure of dining at Delicias, don’t be surprised if Gino announces to the entire dining room his need for assistance evaluating a new bottle, and pouring a taste for you and everyone else in the room.  Your honest feedback will be welcome!

Sommelier Gino Campbell in the Cellar of Delicias.

Photo Credit: Ranch & Coast

Participating Wineries include Bonny Doon Vineyard, Cline Cellars, Clos Saron, D.H. Gustafson Family Vineyards, Fess Parker Winery & Vineyards, Folin Cellars, Guy Riedel Wines, Katin, Rocca Family Vineyards, Sawtooth Winery, Stage Left Cellars, Stark Wine, Tablas Creek Vineyard, Tarara Winery, Tercero Wines, Terry Hoage Vineyards, and Vina Robles.

Winemaker Rob Folin

The Rhone Rangers held a press tasting at Zola Kitchen yesterday featuring outstanding white wines made from Viognier, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc, and reds made from Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre.  My favorites were:  Folin Cellars 2008 “Misceo” red blend from Oregon, which was lush and velvety with layers of dark berry and a hint of cocoa; Tablas Creek 2008 “Cotes de Tablas Blanc”, which offered hints of tropical fruit, melon and citrus with great acidity; and Terry Hoage’s (the Redskins Superbowl Champ) “Skins” Grenache which was peppery with plums and very refined.

If you can’t catch them while they are in town tonight at the Smithsonian, their wines are definitely worth seeking out.

Trevor’s enthusiasm for this wine is revealed in the following comments:  ”Clos Rougeard is arguably amongst the top domaines in the Loire.  The domaine is run by brothers Charly and Nady Focault who have been running Clos Rougeard since 1969, but it has been in the family for many generations previous.  The Saumur Champigny is their entry level bottling (they also produce 2 single vineyards, Le Poyeux and Le Bourg, as well as 1 white, Brézé). All of their wines are created in an extremely artisanal and traditional in the best sense.  No herbicides or artificial fertilizers have ever been used.  Vineyards are ploughed and grapes are still tread by foot.  These are wine created with love and care.

“The basic Saumur Champigny is often my go to wine for a customer looking for a beautifully crafted wine.  It pairs wonderfully with our menu, yet it is unique and costing a fraction of a comprable Burgundy or Bordeaux.  The 2002, having a bit of bottle age is drinking beautifully right now.  The wines are known for their ability to age quite gracefully for decades.

“The 2002 Saumur opens up with bacon, earth and mushrooms on the nose and gives way to currants, cherries and casssis as the wine opens up;  a sexy and intriguing wine.  It is an elegant wine with well intigrated tannins and enough acid to keep everything in balance…By itself beautiful, but with food, absolutely amazing.

“Maybe it is my knowledge of the Focault brothers and their history, or all the times I’ve shared these wines with friends as well as guests, but, whenever I open a bottle of Clos Rougeard I am fillled with a sense of romance and passion, as if every bottle is a singular work of art.  The Focault brothers are truly master craftsmen, and at the end of the night I am always a little mournful that there is one less bottle in our cellar.”

Depending on the vintage, this wine will set you back between $40-$100.

I enjoyed a delectable plate of pesto pasta at Paolo’s Ristorante in Georgetown recently. They call it Ligurian Trofie (although the latter word seems like a misspelling of the Italian word for ‘trophy’ – trofèo). The house recipe below calls for a bit more spice and black pepper which opens up more possibilities for wine matches.

Ordinarily, I would pair a medium- to full-bodied white wine with pesto, perhaps a Gavi or Pinot Blanc, but the zesty result in this dish is a perfect match for red Zinfandel. I savored the dish with Plungerhead 2008 Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi, $16). The wine is a recent release from the Sebastiani family, the half of the family that describes itself as “The Other Guys.” Clearly, this Plungerhead bottling makes a major statement about how capable these ‘other guys’ are at continuing the line of superb successes from this famed wine family.

The dish had spicy highlights thanks to the black pepper and hint of red pepper flakes, together making a stand for the Lodi Zin, as each accentuated the best properties of the other. But if you’re dying for a white wine with your pesto, I would recommend a zesty Gavi from Italy’s Piedmont region. Try Marchesi di Barolo “Le Lune” ($15), Michele Chiarlo ($17), or Principessa Perlante ($17).

Ligurian Trofie from Paolo’s in Georgetown
1/2 oz olive oil
2 oz 1/4 inch cubed idaho potatoes (blanched but not mushy)
1 oz haricot verts (blanched)
1tsp shallot minced
1tsp garlic minced
1 fl oz white wine
1/2 tsp crushed red pepper
1/2 tsp salt and pepper
2 tbsn creamy pesto (recipe below)
3 ea oven dried or sundried tomatoes
6 oz trophie pasta
1 fl oz pasta cooking water

1. Saute potatoes in hot pan until slightly browned
2. Add haricot verts, garlic and shallots. saute for an additional 1 minute
3. Add remaining ingredients, except tomato and cook for an additional 3-5 minutes.
4. Top with tomatoes, toss with cooked pasta, add shaved parmesan, and serve

CREAMY PESTO
6 oz basil (by weight)
1/2 cup pelled garlic cloves
1 cup grated parmesan
2 cups olive oil
1 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 tbsn salt and pepper
1/2 cup toasted pine nuts
2 cup water

1. Place all ingredients in blender except oil.
2. Slowly drizzle in oil while blending

Dick Rosano has offered his insights on wine in many publications and radio shows, and is a regular contributor to WeeklyWinePick.com.

“All of the Palminas are terrific food wines, and unbelievable values.  The Nebbiolo in particular has fine tannins and balanced acidity making it a great pair for Italian style dishes,” Mark noted.  ”2005 was the inaugural vintage of the Nebbiolo, which grows best in Piedmont but has now proven its potential in the similar terroir of the Sisuoc and Stolpman Vineyards.”  This big red retails for under $30.

Years ago Mark combined his passion for wine with his proven track record in business with the launch of CoolVines.  He has stores in Westfield and Princeton, NJ, and their website offers an inviting and novel approach to exploring wines online.  On the site I was immediately presented with a concise summary of the wine’s style, and saw right away where I could drill down for more detailed info.  Also, customers can find a wine they like, and by hitting the “Explore!” button receive intelligent alternative suggestions.  When I explored alternatives to the Palmina, the site suggested 3 other medium bodied reds of different varietals, new world and old.  You can also sign up for their custom wine club to ensure your cellar is always stocked with wines you love.  These services go far beyond those of most retailers, and show that Mark and his team have put a lot of thought into meeting the needs of their customers.

Want a bottle?  You can of course buy it from CoolVines or a retailer near you using Wine-Searcher.

Like me, they had the delight of visiting the winery. The Artesa facility itself is a sight to see, one of Napa’s most unique. Indeed, it is almost all located underground with a grass roof. The ultra modern interior includes original artwork of the artist in residence, and the tasting room staff and tour guides are unpretentious and friendly.

Artesa stands for “craftsman,” which is appropriate for a winery that crafts its wine with great care under the leadership of their winemaker, Mark Beringer. Artesa achieves a different, softer style because they do not crush any red grapes (they do crush white grapes releasing juice to be fermented without skins). They leave red wine grapes to begin fermentation inside the skins, which break open on their own and release juice. When making red wines most winemakers gently crush the grapes to release the juice. Crushing is perfectly fine and makes wonderful wines, but just a different style.

Aresta’s no-crush approach makes wines that are softer and fruitier because fewer bitter flavors from skins and seeds are released into the wines. Their wines are rich and velvety with a softer style than many “big” Napa Valley reds, yet they are still wonderfully flavorful and complex.

Artesa’s Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are grown in its Napa Valley Carneros-based winery, while some of the other red grapes are grown in warmer areas in Sonoma and Napa. Carneros has a surprisingly cooler climate than the rest of Napa. At a visit during one of the hottest  weeks this summer (while it was well over 100 degrees just an hour away in Sacramento), Carneros was down-right chilly by comparison, with cool breezes coming off the San Pablo Bay. Meanwhile, that week, unbearably hot weather plagued Pinot Noir grapes at Oregon vineyards, which are considered some of the best sites for Pinot Noir in the country because their usually cooler climate. Carneros is indeed a particularly unique place. In addition to cool breezes fog blankets vineyards in the morning, keeping grapes cool before it is burned off by bright sunlight. These factors produce good ripening of grapes with a relatively long-hang time on the vine.  They can then develop complex, fruity flavors and sugar, while maintaining enough acid to make balanced wines.

Not surprisingly, Artesa produces fantastic Pinot Noir wines, at all price points. Their value-priced Pinot Noir has a delicate profile–as Pinot Noir should–but it is still packed with fruit flavors and spice with complexity. You can get the 2006 Pinot Noir Carneros for $20-$25.

Artesa Chardonnay is a particularly nice, balanced wine, in contrast to other California Chardonnay wines that some say receive excessive oak or other treatments. Fifty percent of the wine is fermented in oak barrels, is aged with the yeast (aged “on its lees”), and receives malolactic fermentation. The other half is fermented in stainless steel and does not undergo malolactic fermentation. In addition, the French oak barrels are 34 percent new (which extracts more intense flavor) and 66 percent used (which exacts subtle if any flavor). French oak imparts flavors that are less intense than American oak, which is commonly used in California Chardonnay.

Also worth hunting down are Artesa Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot wines. If you visit you can taste some of them at the winery in Carneros, but the grapes are sourced from their vineyards in warmer areas—one in Napa’s Atlas Peak area and the other in Alexander Valley in Sonoma. These reds offer opulently rich and velvety flavor and texture with deep, dark fruit flavors. Try the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa/Sonoma made with 55 percent Napa grapes and 45 percent Sonoma-sourced grapes.  It is aged in French oak barrels for 24 months. It is available for $20-$25.  Total Wine has a Napa Valley only Cabernet for $29.99, worth trying.

If you have a bigger budget and are willing to do mail order, Aresta’s single vineyard and limited release wines are nothing short of fantastic. Artesa also markets wines under the label of Ridgeline, which are quite delicious. I recently mail-ordered from the winery half a case to enjoy this summer. You might also locate some on on Wine Searcher. Check out the others available on their website.

Gold’s suggestion for the Weekly Wine Pick includes two different varieties from the Alto Adige region of northern Italy.

“They’re low tannin, high acid, which is a real recipe for being very food friendly,” he says. “The wines from the Alto Adige do best, because they’ve got enough substantial flavor [and] they’re grown in a really cool area and … in high altitude.”

In this German-speaking region of far northern Italy, he says perhaps his favorite winery in the area is Abbazia di Novacella, and his specific recommendations from the winery are Lagrein and Kerner. Currently, Dino is serving the 2008 Kerner and 2007 Lagrein.

Abbazia di Novacella Lagrein is great for pretty much anything, particularly fish, Gold says. “Other than a big, thick steak, this goes with pretty much anything on our menu.”

“The wine is a low tannin—a wine that lends itself to elegance; it can be made big, although it’s harder to do that well, [or] it can be made very light,” Gold says. “It’s a very versatile grape.” He adds that it has a “blueberry character” to it.

The Lagrein vineyard itself is actually a collection of small vineyards surrounded by the town, he says. According to information from Vias Imports Ltd., the importer, the wine is fermented in stainless steel, with a maceration period of 15 days.

“It really emphasizes the fruit; it’s not a big age-away wine,” Gold says. “Lagrein is to Italian reds—especially the northern reds—what Pinot Noir might be to the French reds.”

The white Abbazia di Novacella Kerner, he says, has “the elegance and the raciness that a Riesling has, but it’s fermented quite dry.”

Kerner is a cross between the Riesling and Schiava grape.

“It’s not really planted very often, and it’s planted in Germany, but it mostly goes into the more bulk wines,” Gold says. He notes a lime flavor to the grape, but it’s very crisp and very dry. It’s also very aromatic.

“When you first smell it you think, ‘Oh maybe this is going to be a little sweet,’ but it isn’t,” he says.

Both wines retail anywhere between $20 and $30, depending on the vendor and location.

But such unique selections are just part of what Dino offers on a regular basis. The restaurant not only tempts its patrons with some of the top Italian dishes in the D.C. area and notable wine expertise, it also features a variety of appealing specials and deals as well as wine classes.

Check out more wines tasted at Dino last week on our Facebook Fan Page.

Danny’s selection for the Weekly Wine Pick is Argiano NC Confunditor 2007 Rosso Toscano, a Tuscan blend of 40 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 20 percent Merlot, 20 percent Sangiovese and 20 percent Syrah.

“[It’s] a balance of red fruits, smoke and meat with a full body and pronounced—but integrated—tannins and acidity,” he says. “This one has Syrah thrown into the blend which is different and cool.”

Rated 91 points by Wine Spectator, 89 points by The Wine Advocate and retailing for about $25, Danny says this young wine is already great drinking, but he also has cellared a few bottles and is interested in seeing how it ages. (We Define Wine suggests a lifespan through 2016.)

Its fruit and smoke make it a good match for a strong cheese, such as Gorgonzola or Livarot. Danny also suggests pairing it with a good ribeye or lamb.

“I like to call these types of wine ‘Baby Super Tuscans,’” he says.

This “Super Tuscan” comes from Argiano S.r.l. Società Agricola, located just southwest of Montalcino. Its vineyards cover about 120 acres and receive “year- round south exposure during midday.” Countess Noemi Marone Cinzano acquired the winery in 1992.

Distributed by Vias Imports Ltd., Argiano NC Confunditor 2007 Rosso Toscano is one of seven Argiano varieties available stateside.