From 1974 to 1990, he was at the helm at Chateau St. Jean in Sonoma County, crafting wines that would lay the groundwork for decades of success at that establishment. Nearing the end of his tenure there, Dick and his wife Alis founded Arrowood Winery in 1986, making wines in a cozy setting in the foothills of Sonoma County.

They dedicated their time to producing wines that carried Dick Arrowood’s personal touch, soft textures, intense flavors, and supple finish. Each sip a mouthful; each glass a banquet.

Arrowood remained with that enterprise until June 2010 when he left the winemaking at his eponymous winery to Heidi von der Mehden and began another venture. This time, like the previous two, it is in Sonoma County and is called Amapola Creek, after the creek that runs through the property.

  The vineyards are on Mayacamas Mountains and are farmed organically by famed vineyard manager Phil Coturri. True to his roots, Arrowood specializes in Cabernet Sauvignon, a sumptuous wine that is hard to put down. But in a nod to his wife and constant partner, he’s created another bottling called Cuvée Alis, a blend of syrah and grenache. They also produce Zinfandel from the Monte Rosso vineyard, a site that has long been extolled by wine lovers for the depth and concentration of the wines it yields.

I haven’t tasted the Syrah, Zinfandel, or Cuvée Alis, but I recently had the opportunity to taste the Amapola Creek 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. I have to say I wasn’t stunned – but that’s because I’ve come to expect so much from Dick Arrowood. And, once again, he has lived up to the Olympian standards he set when he first set foot in Sonoma County. Stunned, surprised? No. Infatuated? Yes.

Notes: Amapola Creek 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon ($70). Ebulliently fruity and forward, yet elegant and refined. Flavors tend toward black cherries and plums, with hints of tobacco and cassis. A vein of toast and roasted coffee bean threads through the palate, wrapped in velvety smooth textures.

In fact, Albariño – called Alvarinho in Portugal – is a wonderful complement to a wide range of foods. With its focus on peach and nectarine flavors, accented by a bit of citric acidity, the wine balances zest with texture to serve up a medium-bodied, long-flavored wine. Usually it is slightly on the sweet side, but this helps deliver fullness of flavor when matched against spicy foods.

Starting with seafood, Albariño is best with steamed shellfish or broiled spine fish, although it merits attention with the better versions of ceviche. And it has enough body to serve alongside fish soup or cioppino.

But Albariño also pairs well with chicken – especially those with cream sauces or accented by herbs – and pasta dishes with clam sauce or mushroom-based sauces.

In the restaurant scene, you should find excellent examples of Albariño in establishments like Taberno del Alabardero, La Tasca, and Jaleo, but the wine is also likely to appear on well-drawn wine lists in wine-savvy restaurants, like Grapeseed, Tallula, and Cork. If it’s not there, ask – no, demand – and see how your favorite watering hole reacts to your new discovery.

Meanwhile, here are some Albariños for you to try on your own – with or without preparing a complete Spanish meal as accompaniment. All are from Rias Biaxas, in the northwestern region of Galicia.

  Condes de Albarei 2010 -Apricot and peach on nose, vibrantly fruity

Don Olegario 2010 – Floral, fruity, bright white peach and nectarine flavors

Mar de Frades 2010 – Refreshing touch of acidity to add sparkle to a forward-fruity wine

Marques d Vizhoja Torre la Moreira 2010 – Bright, fresh, a bit more reserved than other Albariños

Pazo Señorans 2010 – Unctuous and smooth, richer in texture than other Albariños

Robaliño 2010 – Butter, hazelnut and flowers on nose, supple textures with vein of acidity

Santiago Ruiz 2010 – White peach, hint of pineapple on nose and palate

And so it is, after too long a wait, that I visited Brasserie Beck (1101 K Street, NW, 202-408-1717) one afternoon for a lunch with friends.

Robert Wiedmaier came to Washington to open Aquarelle, the elegant riverfront restaurant that took over Jean-Louis Paladin’s old haunt in the Watergate. From this start, Wiedmaier has built a portfolio of fine restaurants, including Marcel’s and, more recently, Brasserie Beck. Wiedmaier’s preference for the Belgian influence shows quickly in BB, from the beer bar positioned right inside the entrance to the choice of ingredients and the selection of dishes on the menu.

Cassoulet and Salmon “en Papillotte” is comfortable beside the Veal Schnitzel and Rabbit Pie; even the sides are prepared with diligence and attention to artistic detail. The Butternut Squash Crêpe and Cream of Parsnip Soup stand out, but all the choices deserve attention.

The extraordinary list of mussels shows off Wiedmaier’s creative talent. Mussel-lovers and skeptics alike should indulge in any of the long list of options, including Spicy Red Thai Curry, Fennel & Chorizo, and Wild Mushroom, among others, delectable sauces spooned over the choice Prince Edward Island mussels.

  And if mussels don’t float your boat, don’t hesitate to try the Beef Carbonade, Whole Roasted Boneless Trout, or Roasted Merguez Sausage and Lentils. I worked through several friends’ appetizers and was more than happy to settle for the Lamb Sandwich, paired with a perfectly wonderful glass of Font de Blanche Côtes du Rhône.

The list of wines by the bottle is very extensive and, with representatives from every major wine-producing country, will very likely satisfy even the most discriminating palate. My only concerns are the relatively short list of wines by the glass (BTG), and the fact that the half-bottle list includes only white wines. It’s true, bottle orders are common at dinner and a restaurant that focuses on the dinner crowd might count on bottle orders. But lunch service needs to include more wines BTG, and even diners in for supper deserve the chance to order individual glasses of fine wine to suit their specific dishes.

But this was a memorable meal, one that encourages me to return – many times – and challenge Wiedmaier and his staff to impress me time after time.

Bargain Hunters’ note:  On Tuesday nights, most wines on Brasserie Beck’s list are 50% off.

Well, maybe some of it is, and that’s the reason this reasoning has gotten traction. But so many quality Merlots are left out of the conversation. Beringer’s Merlots have been stupendous for years, especially the Bancroft Ranch. Pahlmeyer and Pride have Merlots that easily stand above the crowd. Etude’s bottlings are age-worthy, and Shafer Merlots – earlier to mature – provide instant gratification. I’d push any Pinot Noir off the table to make way for a Château St. Jean Merlot, and Joe Cafaro still makes Merlots that sing.

Then there’s Duckhorn, Havens, Keenan, St. Francis, Château Ste. Michelle, and Matanzas Creek. In fact, during an extensive tasting of Merlots for a cover story in Wine News a few years back, I concluded that almost any Merlot from the cooler climes of Carneros would be a special treat.

Through the years, Merlot styles have changed and, after the initial boom-years in the 1990s, better terroir has been chosen for plantings. Below are a few recent tasting notes that might offer a primer on the grape.

  Beringer 2008 (Napa Valley, $21). A rich ruby red, with coffee and licorice aromas hosting hints on dark berries and milk chocolate, forward flavors and nicely balanced. Score: 87

Beringer 2006 Howell Mountain Bancroft Ranch (Napa Valley, $75) Up-front aromas of coffee and dark chocolate, with latent dark berry aromas, soft tannins, sumptuous red fruit, and wonderfully balanced. Score: 93

Charles Krug 2008 (Napa Valley, $24). Deep and dense in color and aroma, black cherry and petrol like Pomerol, hefty body, rich textured and dense fruit flavors. Score: 91

Castello di Gabbiano 2007 Alleanza (Tuscany, $35). Soft red fruit, rich body, tangy acidity, dry impression but fruity finish. Score: 90

Columbia Crest 2007 Reserve (Columbia Valley $30). Delicate aromas but pungent flavors. Score: 88

http://www.pridewines.com/content/default1421.html

“Le Nouveau est arrivée!” One may see these words in the windows of wine retailers today, marking the release of the 2011 Beaujolais Nouveau. It is wine made of Gamay grapes and fermented for only a few weeks after harvest before reaching the market. Historically, the wine was for local (French) consumption only until clever marketers at negociants such as George Deboeuf found ways to cash in on the buzz that developed from the tradition.

I am not French, but have had the privilege of attending annual “Nouveau” parties with French ex-pats in the various U.S. cities I have lived in. They were always lots of fun, and until recently I could easily stomach shelling out $10 bucks a bottle for wine that offers a tremendous pucker factor. Beaujolais Nouveau by itself is usually not too enjoyable, and the only reason I would buy it is to use as a ticket to one of these parties.

Now don’t get me wrong, I love wines from Beaujolais. They are generally sold at three levels of quality: Nouveau, Villages, and Cru Beaujolais. The Cru wines will have a specific village designation, such as Morgon, Fleurie or Moulin à Vent. I count Cru Beaujolais as some of my favorite wines in the world. They offer great complexity at a low price. Many are worthy of cellaring; a few years back I popped the cork on a 1983 Moulin à Vent and it was delicious.

I have been watching the Twitter feed today and have seen retailers post prices exceeding $20 per bottle of this young wine. This blows my mind!  If I can offer one piece of useful wine advice all year: Avoid handing over your cash for this wine. Ask your retailer for Cru Beaujolais instead. Chances are you will only need to pay a dollar or two more for far superior wine.  I purchased the wines in the photo from Weygandt Wines in DC, and paid about $21 per bottle and $40 for the magnums (which I will set aside for a few years).  Pictured are wines from reputable producers Chiroubles, Morgon, Fleurie, Moulin à Vent and Brouilly. All represent the best that French Gamay has to offer, but each is distinct in character.  Taste a Cru Beaujolais next to this year’s Beaujolais Nouveau and you will immediately see what I mean.

White wine makers finally realized that they were being scoffed at and decided to ramp up the quality to retake their market share. And red wine drinkers who, for years, tut-tutted the shallow whites as useless suddenly discovered the joys of a lightly chilled and briskly acidic wine as a come-hither invitation to the delights of the table.

Chardonnay was good, but had already given birth to an anti- market. Dubbed ABC wine, it referred to wine drinkers looking for “anything but Chardonnay.” There was a dalliance with Viognier and Riesling, and perennial flirtations with exotic Old World wines like Torrontes, Marsanne, Aligoté, and Albariño, but as aperitif wines go, we were looking for brisk, lively wines that tantalized the palate and prepared us for the meal.

Enter Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris. Not the PGs of years past, wines that lacked finish and were hard to distinguish from the water glass standing next to it. PGs of today boast a panoply of flavors, citrus overtones, balance, and – more so in the case of Pinot Gris – supple textures.

  I would still choose a Pinot Grigio for a pre-prandial drink. Its racy flavors and gulpability are perfect for the first drink of the evening. And I would pick Pinot Gris, with its fuller mouthfeel and longer impression as the wine to serve with food. But both have their place.

Banfi 2010 Le Rime Pinot Grigio (Tuscany, $9). Refreshing and bright, with lemony acidity.

Castello di Gabbiano 2010 Pinot Grigio (Tuscany, $8).  Scents of lemon zest and lime come first, followed by a zesty, bright fruity wine with highlights of citrus.

Erath 2009 Pinot Gris (Oregon, $14). Silky smooth, luscious white peach and pear flavors yet with a tingling threat of acidity to hold it all together.

Kumeu River 2009 Pinot Gris (Auckland, New Zealand, $21). Peach and vanilla on the nose, followed by the rich flavors of ripe peach and tropical fruit. The slightly oily hint to the texture bodes well and shows a full-bodied wine to pair well with cream-based dishes.

Ponzi 2010 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley, $15). Zesty and refreshing, hint of lime and floral accents on nose, main theme of lime on palate, with citrus acidity bracing the entire impression.

Santa Cristina 2010 Pinot Grigio (Sicily, $16). Crisp bright fruit aromas with a floral hint, slight apple and citrus flavors with touch of orange on finish.

WillaKenzie 2010 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley, $21).  Crisp, fresh, lively acidity, bright pear and crisp apple flavors, touch of pineapple on finish.

Kenny’s latest batch of wines is another example of his consistent quality.  All of them come from fruit grown on a 100 acre hillside vineyard in Alexander Valley, which is covered with blue stones and serpentine boulders.  He bottles the wines at three quality levels.  The entry level Baby Blue is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc, Syrah, Merlot, and Malbec.  It is truly a wine for everyone; a special occasion bottle for those on a budget or a daily drinker for the collector-types.  It has that soft richness to it that is commonly found in ultra-premium Napa Cabernets that have cellared for 10 or so years.

Kenny’s flagship Cabernets are good candidates for such cellaring.  The elegance of these complex and powerful reds needs time to emerge.  I brought the 2008 and 2009 to a dinner party full of wine-savvy friends and they were a big hit, though one person expressed regret that I was not able to bring vintages from earlier in the decade so that he could get a real sense of the wine’s potential.   I reminded him that with wine, good things come to those who wait.

Was it a good deal? Ask me on New Year’s Day.

Just an hour from Washington, North Beach has all you need for a day of fun. The Lighthouse stocks all the beach supplies you need, and Chez Elle offers a dazzling choice of smart women’s clothing.

But if you come for fun, you must come for the food, too. A new addition to the town is the Olde Bay Tavern (4114 7th Street, 443-964-5261), a casual place to dine that combines a terrific menu, well-considered wine and beer selections, and an affable environment.

Owners Colleen and Doug McClair spent their careers in computer consulting, dreaming of opening a restaurant but not pulling that string until they created Olde Bay Tavern just a few weeks ago. On my visits, the food has been uniformly terrific, the presentation casual, and the staff welcoming.

The cream of crab soup is chock full of lump crab meat, and the crab cakes are sumptuous. I saw plates of flatbread, club sandwiches, and pulled pork that looked delicious. For a special treat, try Olde Bay’s own version of surf and turf: a burger topped with a crab cake!

It’s no accident that the tavern claims Maryland’s famous spice for its name. A dusting of the famous seasoning appeared on nearly every plate that swung through the dining room.

The wine list is comfortably short, but well thought-out, giving a fair shake to the range of wines required for this menu. The beer list is crafty, and includes many of the specialty beverages we’ve come to expect in fine dining.

Now that Olde Bay Tavern is part of the landscape of this wonderful little town, I have only one question for Colleen and Doug: What took you so long?

Italian wines have been great for centuries, and Americans have been buying and bringing home wine from the peninsula since Thomas Jefferson swooned over Brunello di Montalcino in the 1780s.

There are dozens of small importers, but few major players who bring us the best of what Italy has to offer. Neil and Maria Empson have been doing that for over 40 years.

It was during a trip to Milan in 1970 that the vacationing couple fell in love with Italian wines, while bemoaning the fact that most of Italy’s best never crossed its borders. An idea born of their own passion led the Empsons to found Neil Empson Selections and begin a decades-long tradition of introducing Americans to the great wines of the Old World.

  Empson USA now imports wine from Italy, New Zealand, and Chile. From Italy alone their portfolio boasts over 40 superb estates, including perennial favorites such as Einaudi, Bortoluzzi, Il Molino di Grace, Jermann, Cignale, Pieropan, Speri . . . in fact, it’s tough to pinpoint my favorites from such a large portfolio.

So I decided to use the “close your eyes and throw a dart” approach, knowing that essentially any Empson-chosen wine would be a rewarding experience. And I was right. Here are some examples.

Jermann 2010 Pinot Grigio (Venezia Giulia, $30). Scents of honeysuckle and tart green apple, followed by same impression on the palate, refreshing acidity, ripe and full, a great food wine. Score: 87

Pieropan 2010 Soave (Veneto, $17). Lightly sweet aromas, flavors of fresh fruit, with dominant pear notes, simple yet forward, best with cream of crab soup. Score: 85

Bucci 2007 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Riserva (Marches, $57). Subtle, approachable, requires lots of attention from the aroma to the finish, soft textures, voluptuous body. Score: 90

Bellavista 2005 Grand Cuvee Brut (Franciacorta, $69). Beautifully sparkling and clear, soft diffuse bubbles, slight fruitiness balances firm acidic backbone. Score: 89

Stay tuned. There are so many Empson wines they will have to be reviewed in future columns