Instead, the plan here is to focus on the other great red wine from DCV: Cabernet Sauvignon, an eye-popping wine that is sometimes forgotten in the poetry and prose written about Zins. Again, too many to capture in this one article, but I’ll start with some notable examples of what can be achieved with this much-heralded, but little noticed grape in Dry Creek Valley.

 Dry Creek Vineyard was founded by Dave Stare but has been managed by his daughter, Kim Stare Wallace and her husband, Don. Kim and Don have stayed true to what must be papa Dave’s philosophy: Great wines that are still affordable. And following his early exposure to France and its wines, Kim and Don also respect the winemaking traditions that have developed at Dry Creek Vineyard.

 Principle among those traditions is Cabernet Sauvignon, including one listed in the Signature Series ($25) accompanied by the highly regarded Endeavour ($65), a stylish, Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, and Merlot.

 Dry Creek Vineyard 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cabernet Sauvignon 86%; Merlot 4%; Cabernet Franc 4%; Malbec 3%; Petit Verdot 3%, $25). Forward aromatic fruit, soft textures, blackberry and plum flavors with a touch of cinnamon, well rounded and very expressive. Score: 89

 Forchini Vineyards and Winery remains focused on a shorter portfolio of wines, including some that reflect their Italian-American heritage like Papa Nonno, billed as a Tuscan-style red wine. However, their flagship wine is the Cabernet Sauvignon – actually also a Bordeaux blend that includes minor percentages of Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec.

 Forchini Cabernet 2009 Sauvignon Proprietor’s Reserve (Cabernet Sauvignon 85%; Petit Verdot 10%; Cabernet Franc 4%; Malbec 1%, $32). Rich textures, smooth approach, light aromas of chocolate and tobacco leaf, blueberry and cherry flavors. Score: 89

 Pedroncelli Winery has been around since 1927, in fact it was founded during Prohibition and began its useful life by selling fruit to home winemakers. The current – long – list of wines offered by this winery includes Zinfandel, of course, but three different Cabs: Three Vineyards ($17), Morris Fay Vineyard ($19), and Block 007 Estate ($25). All affordable, all delicious.

 Pedroncelli 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Three Vineyards (Cabernet Sauvignon 82%; Cabernet Franc 11%; Merlot 7%, $17). Juicy, red fruit aromas, terrific balance, medium body, cherry and blackberry flavors, hint of cinnamon, medium length. Score: 87

  In cars, mention the Corvette and everyone turns in your direction. In hotels, it’s the Ritz-Carlton. And there is no gem more valuable than a diamond.

 And so it is with American wine. The Mondavi name is the sine qua non of any serious wine cellar. History tells us that Robert Mondavi didn’t leave the first family wine business, Charles Krug, willingly. But when he left that enterprise he founded the Robert Mondavi Winery and began a personal venture that would, ultimately, transform American wine.

 He infused everyone around him with his enthusiasm and determination – even American icons like Warren Winiarski, Mike Grgich, and Zelma Long who learned from, and contributed to, his success.

 And he passed on this drive and passion for success to his children. On a recent, cold Washington night, I had the great good fortune of dining with Robert’s eldest son, Michael, Isabel (Michael’s wife), and their daughter Dina and Dina’s husband. The venue was Bibiana Osteria and Enoteca (1100 New York Avenue, NW), the food was luxuriously prepared – - and the wine was extraordinary.

 Conversation centered around what is right – and what is wrong – with American wine. “What are we trying to do?” was Michael’s persistent question. It wasn’t a complaint; it was a very focused, intense dialectic on where American wine has been, and where it’s going.

 The conversation with Michael, with insightful contributions from other family members who’ve been around him and lived in the shadow of his passion, was illuminating. His father, Robert, was unyielding in his belief that America could make the finest wine in the world – - I knew him and I almost needed sunglasses to shield myself from the glare of his certainty at times.

 Robert was right, and his wines – many made by Michael – were proof of his hypothesis. Michael is not carrying on his father’s mission, he’s carrying on his own. And wine lovers across the country should feel privileged to taste them.

 Isabel Mondavi 2010 Chardonnay (Napa). Beautifully balanced, with enough acidity to carry the weight.

 Emblem Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Oso Vineyard (Napa). Aromatic and rich, an endless bouquet of dark fruit and floral accents. Herbs and a touch of leather mark the deep dark fruit flavors.

 M by Michael Mondavi 2007 (Napa). Forward and fruity, but with a fascinating edge of earth, oak, and dill. Explosively fruity, demonstrative on the palate. A rich wine meant for serious meals.

Rodney Strong established his eponymous winery in 1959, after a career in entertaining. He knew the region well and chose Sonoma County for his vines, years before the awakening in American wine pointed to this region as a rising star. Strong began with Chardonnay planted in Chalk Hill and added Pinot Noir in the Russian River Valley where he built his winery. But his master stroke was growing Cabernet Sauvignon in Alexander Valley, a microclimate that today yields some of the most luscious, mouth-filling wines from California.

As he grew older, he experimented with grapes in a variety of districts, all in Sonoma County, then brought Rick Sayre onboard in 1979 to make the wines. The Tom Klein family purchased the winery and vineyards in 1989, but Sayre has stayed on as head winemaker.

I have tasted these wines for many years and the quality keeps going up and up. Introducing bottlings such as Symmetry, Rockaway Cab, Alexander’s Crown, and Brothers Ridge have lifted the ceiling on quality and given Klein and Sayre breathing space to continue their upward climb in quality.

Rodney Strong 2011 Sauvignon Blanc Charlotte’s Home (Northern Sonoma, $15). Big, bright, and beautiful, this is one of my favorite wines. I never tire of the bright acidity, brilliant fruit, and long, food-friendly flavors; terrific balance. Score: 87

Rodney Strong 2009 Chardonnay Reserve (Russian River Valley, $35). Rich and full-bodied, slight smoke lingers over tropical fruit flavors, an accent of figs. Score: 92

Rodney Strong 2009 Pinot Noir Reserve (Russian River Valley, $40). Dark red berry and spice flavors, a touch of cedar and smoke for accent. Score: 89

Rodney Strong 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley Estate (Alexander Valley, $28). Plush textures, vibrant aromas of blackcurrants and cherries, soft tannins on finish. Score: 90

Rodney Strong 2009 Alexander’s Crown Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley, $75). Blackberries and chocolate covered cherries on nose and palate, elegant, fine, velvety; rich, vibrant. Score: 92

Rodney Strong 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Rockaway (Alexander Valley, $75). Rich dark red fruit, luscious textures, anise and licorice accent the deep chocolate and dark berry flavors. Score: 93

Rodney Strong 2009 Symmetry Red Meritage (Alexander Valley, $55). Stunning “symmetry” of flavors and textures; opens with sweet black fruit aromas and whiff of violets, black currant and plum flavors, long and luscious. Score: 94

Their focus – at least for now – in on extremely small production, stylish Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. By “extremely small production” we mean that their case lot output is measured in hundreds, not thousands. From my tasting notes, I see tremendous potential, judging from the power and concentration of the wines. The scores are high enough to justify continued attention, but production levels may have to rise to meet demand.

Look for Ram’s Gate to become a serious player in the high-end wine sweepstakes in the next few years.

Ram’s Gate Winery 2010 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard (Sonoma Coast, $74, 209 cases). Scents of honey, melon, and oak; a slightly heavier style than other Ram’s Gate Chards, with toasty, buttery, oaky flavors, full body, and some vanilla and clove on finish. Score: 86

Ram’s Gate Winery 2010 Chardonnay Lee’s Secret Vineyard (Carneros, $64, 148 cases). Opening impression of crème brulee, with vanilla, cream notes on nose, lightly toasted oak, oily texture. Score: 92

Ram’s Gate Winery 2010 Chardonnay Ulises Valdez Diablo Vineyard (Russian River Valley, $64, 309 cases). Toast first on palate, followed by candy apple and dried fig, full rich textures. Score: 92

Ram’s Gate Winery 2010 Chardonnay Sangiacomo Green Acres Vineyard (Carneros, $62, 407 cases). A bright, fresh wine with good balance between heft and lightness; not as oaked as Durrell Vineyard reviewed above, with lively acidity, some tropical fruit flavors blended with the brisk approach of grapefruit and pineapple. Score: 88

Ram’s Gate Winery 2010 Pinot Noir Bush Crispo Vineyard (Russian River Valley, $70, 174 cases). Hint of bay leaf on flavors of blueberry, with soft tea leaf impressions, incredibly smooth. Score: 93

Ram’s Gate Winery 2010 Pinot Noir Sangiacomo Roberts Road (Sonoma Coast, $68, 292 cases). Smoke, black cherry, and plums dominate in this very satisfying wine. Score: 93

I was introduced to the winery’s production line by tasting through its white label series, the single vineyard line and the upper tier of its portfolio, priced around $70. Although I haven’t tasted Ram’s Gate red label series, priced about $28 per bottle, I suspect that the quality shown in the white labels would shine through to this secondary tier.

Salentein is a privately-owned estate of nearly 5,000 acres, with over 1,1oo of them under vine.  80% of the vineyards produce red varietals including Malbec, Cabernet, Syrah, Pinot Noir and Tempranillo.  Chardonnay, Torrontes and Sauvignon Blanc are grown strategically throughout the property.  Due to the altitude, long hot days followed by cooler night temperatures lead to longer hang-time for grapes, enhancing the balance between sugars and acidity.  Irrigation is courtesy of melting snowcaps above the vineyards that helps lower pH levels – enhancing the color and structure of the wines.

  Lunch started with chacutrie boards and Mr. Galante’s 2010 Killka Collection Torrontes.  Fittingly, Killka translates “portal, or entry way;” the art gallery on the property also bears its name.  This white had loads of minerality on the nose with bright flavors and notes of lychee and mango.  I found the wine lean and racy.  99% of the time I partner red wine with cured meats, and was surprised by how well this wine worked across the board. 

  Next we moved on to the Chardonnay, which Mr. Galante consideres his ”baby”.  He noted it is his favorite varietal, and he takes great care to produce the most honest expression of the grape from the Argentine terroir.  The fruit from his 2011 Reserve Chardonnay comes from two different plots; one at 3600 feet and the other 500 feet above.  Mr. Galante uses French oak for fermentation and finishes the wine on its lees after a partial malolactic fermentation.  The result is a clean finish after lots of texture.  Pear and vanilla are predominant, and the oak is refreshingly subdued.  Both this wine ($20) and the Torrontes ($15) danced Gangnam style with oysters on the halfshell and chilled lobster salad with grapefruit and avocado from the Tavern’s kitchen.

  On to the reds where Malbec, not surprisingly, played the lead role and was supported by sous vide veal breast with chestnuts and huckleberry jam; wild mushroom risotto with a red wine reduction; sauteed spinach with preserved lemon, ricotta salata and spiced pecans; and roasted baby turnips with a bacon marmelade.   With this course we sampled both the 2010 Killka Malbec ($15) and the Salentein 2010 Reserve Malbec.  I received nods of agreement after muttering the words “Jolly Rancher” to describe the Killka.  It was playful and vibrant but classy at the same time.  I would normally call it a great value but for the fact that one can pick up the Reserve for only a few dollars more, and go home with a fantastic bottle.  Although I found the Reserve a bit stubborn at first, with an odd nose, it opened up in a seemingly methodic way.  The end result was a jammy and viscous wine with delicate hints of strawberry and flint.  It got better and better as the session went on, and was especially well suited for the risotto.

The final two wines included the 2010 Salentein Numina, a blend of Malbec and Bordeaux varietals ($41), and the 2010 Primum Malbec.  With these big wines we were served big dishes–Braised beef rib and wood oven roasted Wagyu culotte with red wine braised shallots, creamed corn with bacon and green onion, and a garlic potato puree.  The Numina was a kid doin’ his own thing.  It was streamlined with loads of graphite, iron and dark berry flavors.  Each varietal in this wine is fermented and aged seperately in oak, and blended together after 6 months.  Another 16 months of bottle aging anneals the juice prior to release.  Markedly different character than all of the pure Malbecs on the table. 

  The Primum confused me momentarily, because it tasted like a high-end Bordeaux blend.  Silky and opulent, I would bet no one could guess this wine Malbec blind.  It is an absolute trophy.  I have only tasted one other Argentine wine like it and that wine was not available to the public.  The grapes grow on alluvial, stony soils in the high elevation vineyards of the El Oasis estate.  The juice undergoes malolactic fermentation in French oak barrels and ages for 18 months before bottling.  At $65 it is just as good, if not a better value than the Reserve Malbec.  The braised beef and a bottle of this equal happiness.

Wait, I guess that’s not the most objective way to begin this review. But, as the pundits say, just because I’m biased doesn’t mean these wines aren’t terrific.

Paul Dolan has based his winery on the principles of organic fruit and biodynamic agriculture. Although some people carelessly use this terms interchangeably, they speak to different goals in crop management. “Organic,” as the term is used in the United States, includes the avoidance of synthetic chemicals and other more specific legal requirements, and it covers the growing, storage, processing, packaging, and shipment of this fruit. Biodynamic agriculture goes beyond organic farming to embrace a holistic approach involving the interrelationship of the soil, plants, and animals in a self-sustaining eco-system.

Okay, this is good for the environment, but how does it affect the quality of the wine?

The best way to answer that is to taste two fruit side by side: A tomato grown in a hot house in another country and one picked that morning and sold at the farmer’s market near your home. The clean, fresh tastes that you enjoy from local produce is indicative of the clean, fresh flavors of grapes – and their resultant wine – grown with organic, biodynamic principles.

This is not to say that non-organic wine doesn’t taste good. In fact, wineries that rely on pesticides and fungicides to protect their crop, specialized yeasts and yeast nutrients to boost the fermentation, and various chemicals to purify the production environment bottle wine that is clean, clear, and technologically sound.

But if you truly want to taste the terroir, to imbibe the surrounding environment including soil, local water source, and micro-climate, you should embrace wines made by organic and biodynamic practices, as Paul Dolan suggests.

The proof is in the pudding, as they say. Try the following wonderful wines and you’ll be a convert.

Paul Dolan 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Mendocino County, $18). Brisk and forward, with tantalizing citrus aromas, brilliantly fruity, citric acidity guides the flavor profile, superb with food. Score: 89

Paul Dolan 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendocino County, $25). Supple and softly textured, this wine offers plum, black currant, and black cherry flavors laced with sage and light oak accents. Score: 90

I have not yet tasted Paul Dolan Zinfandel, Chardonnay, or Pinot Noir, but considering the track record, they’re probably well worth the investment.

Francis Ford Coppola famously directed his celluloid success to winemaking stardom at Niebaum-Coppola Estate. Garen Staglin invested his success as a venture capitalist in Staglin Vineyards. Dr. Jerry Seps mentors his vines at Storybook Mountain Vineyards as assiduously as he taught European history in his earlier life. Dozens, if not hundreds more examples are out there.

To a first-time reader, it might seem like the siren song of wine life entices all successful people to its embrace. But just as the sirens lured unprepared sailors to rocky shores, those unprepared for the rigors of the wine market sometimes perish.  For every successful Coppola, Staglin, and Seps, there are a dozen who swerve off the path and lose everything.

Staying on the path requires making good decisions, and making good decisions usually requires picking the right place and the right people.

Paula Brooks & Bob Cook

Paula Brooks and Bob Cook were “tech industry moguls,” as their website says, and they were looking for a pleasant setting to enjoy their retirement. They couldn’t resist the call of Napa Valley, and couldn’t resist the temptation to test the soil and see what fruit they might raise there. The results showed that their plot on Crystal Springs Road was perfect for Cabernet Sauvignon. What luck!

So they had the right place, naming it Dancing Hares Estate; then Paula and Bob invested in picking the right people.

David Abreu

Since all wine begins in the ground, it’s important to rate their vineyard manager first: David Abreu. His reputation throughout Napa and Sonoma counties is widespread and broadly respected. David brings decades of experience to Dancing Hares and gives the Brooks-Cook enterprise the right start.

Winemaker Andy Erickson brings many years of experience to the estate, experience spent working at other top-shelf Napa properties like Screaming Eagle, Harlan Estate, Staglin, and Spottswoode.

Michel Roland is the consulting winemaker, a man who has carved out an historic niche for himself in the Napa wine world. His ability to anticipate the ultimate product while sampling the fruit is a talent derived from many years of consulting work around the world.

Andy Erickson

Dancing Hares Estate produces proprietary wines, wines with a blend of grapes that prohibits varietal labeling. So the flagship wine – Dancing Hares – and secondary wine – Mad Hatter – are free to be composed of any percentage that Erickson and Roland think are best for flavor.

Michel Rolland

I have only tasted the Mad Hatter (Napa Valley, $60), but was very impressed with the luscious, mouth-filling textures of the wine. Blackberry and black cherry flavors were accented with tea-like nuances, and a rich, supple finish pronounced this wine perfect for big flavored dishes.

This wine convinces me that the Brooks-Cook team is well on their way to stardom, and convinces me that other wines produced by them will reach the heights I detected in Mad Hatter.

Doug Fabbioli of nearby Fabbioli Cellars (in Loudon County) and Fletcher Henderson were among the original investors. “I’m the assistant winemaker,” Fletcher says, with a nod to Doug’s greater experience and understanding of the winemaking process. Fabbioli maintains his responsibilities at his eponymous family winery while overseeing the production at La Grange.

La Grange has made progress over the last half dozen years, vinifying the grapes grown on the property as well as fruit from other local sources, and focused on producing food-friendly wines. “Most wines in Virginia are fruit-forward,” said Fletcher in a recent phone call, “but we try for a leaner style,” including a Meritage blend of French red grapes.

Last year, a Chinese investment firm decided the wine produced in Virginia deserved closer attention. Beida Jade Bird Group bought a controlling share of La Grange, which today sells most of its wine at the tasting room. But with the robust economy in China, it should come as no surprise that the Chinese population now craves the finest wines in the world, including those made in Virginia. Just last week, representatives from Beida and the Beijing Yayin Fine Wine export house met at the winery to sign the papers for the first container of La Grange wines to be shipped to mainland China.

Beida’s investment in La Grange has been so convincing that the firm is working with a wine consulting company to consider other wine-related opportunities in the state, opportunities that would create more jobs in Virginia and advance the viticultural potential of the state.

 La Grange and its Chinese owners also recognize the importance of tourism and local consumer traffic. So the 18th century manor house serves as a tasting room, and there are a string of events scheduled for Labor Day weekend including food, live music, and other festivities. There will even be a “rubber ducky” hunt on the grounds with prizes for the winners.

The wines range in price from $19 to $35 a bottle, while the sparkling Brut sells for $40. Don’t miss the Labor Day party, and bring friends. It’ll be a well-spent day in rural Virginia wine country.

The Winery at La Grange, 4970 Antioch Road, Haymarket, VA, 703-753-9360.

That said, Donnafugata just transmitted their nighttime harvest live online. José and Antonio Rallo hosted the event live from Sicily and invited fans from around the world to tune in. The harvest was accompanied by a “live” tasting – although the word seems out of place when it occurs a half-world away – including a four-wine flight of the Fuga Chardonnay, Chiarandà, Tancredi, and Mille e una Notte.

Donafugata is the venture begun by Giacomo and Gabriella Rallo, current representatives of a Sicilian wine family whose experience stretches back 150 years. Planting their dreams on soil once occupied by the exiled Queen Maria Carolina, wife of Ferdinand IV of Bourbon in the 1800s, the Rallo family established a winery that now includes the next generation: son Antonio and daughter José. Contessa Entellina is the estate on mainland Sicily, and supplemented by vineyards on the tiny nearby island of Pantelleria.

I wasn’t able to “attend” the online tasting due to prior commitments, but was able to taste the four wines that were presented. True to the present condition of Sicily’s viniculture, Donnafugata is making remarkable and news-worthy wines that deserve a place among the elite of the world.

Donnafugata 2011 Anthìlia (white, from Catarratto and Ansonica, $15). A fruity and floral wine, with soft peach and nectarine flavors, excellent with food. Score: 85

Donnafugata 2008 Chiarandà (white, from Chardonnay and Ansonica, $40). Ripe fruit and floral aromas, with green apple and peach flavors and a hint of vanilla bean. Score: 86

Donnafugata 2008 Tancredi (Nero d’Avola and Cabernet Sauvignon, $40). An initial focus on cherries and licorice, with a broad influence of soft spice, a nicely structured wine with great length. Score: 87

Donnafugata 2007 Mille e una Notte (Nero d’Avola, $80). Viscous and richly textured, initial dark fruit aromas, dense and chewy, light touch of tobacco leaf on finish. Score: 91

Read Dick Rosano’s debut novel, Tuscan Blood, available on Amazon.com

Sparkling wines are made in every country that aspires to wine greatness, and Italy is no exception. The country discarded the Asti Spumante genre that had spoiled its reputation, and the new bubblies from Asti (in northern Italy) are called simply that – Asti – and they’re refreshing, semi-dry, and reliable, unlike the sweet sugary concoctions of the past.

Northern Italy also makes loads of Prosecco, a particular favorite of this writer, a simple and fruity sparkling wine that seems to turn every occasion into an informal party.

But at a recent luncheon honoring the arrival of Matteo Lunelli, the president of Ferrari wines in Trentino, Italy, we tasted an array of bubblies from that estate that would rival any in the world. Matteo, a perfect face for the franchise, is warm and unceremoniously friendly. His knowledge of the wines from Ferrari is impeccable, and his engaging stories about Italy, the wine business, and his own charge – Ferrari – kept the table in rapt attention.

What about his wines?

They were stupendous. From the straightforward and affordable Ferrari Brut to the extraordinary Giulio Ferrari, each wine raised the quality of the meal to new heights, an epicurean trait that is revered by all Italians.

Here are the wines and brief notes. All are made in the classic method, called metodo classico in Italy, and méthode champenoise in France.

Ferrari Brut, non-vintage (100% Chardonnay, $25). Fresh fruit, hints of apples and touch of pineapple, soft lees texture, gentle toastiness. Score: 85

Ferrari Rosé, non-vintage (60% Pinot Noir; 40% Chardonnay, $37). Salmon colored, strawberry and cherry flavors. Soft and rich on the palate. Score: 86

Ferrari Perlé 2004 (100% Chardonnay, $35), Soft fruit, fresh touch of citrus, well rounded, pure flavors of original Chardonnay. Score: 89

Ferrari Perlé Rosé 2005 (70-80% Pinot Noir; remainder Chardonnay, $75). Wonderfully balanced and with delicate aromas, the palate impression is full textured and sumptuous. Hints of orange peel and toasted almonds. Score: 93

Ferrari Perlé Nero 2005 (100% Pinot Noir, $90). Vibrantly effervescent, this is Ferrari’s entrance into world-class sparkling wines. Doughy impression shows off the bottled beauty of a fine bubbly, and the hints of apricot nectar prove its depth.

Giulio Ferrari 2001 (100% Chardonnay, $100). This is a single vineyard reserve wine that is aged – on the lees! – for 10 years. The impression given by this patient method is one of depth and concentration. Honey, vanilla, and white chocolate come forward on the palate, and the mouthfeel is a harmonious combination of silk and satin. A spectacular wine, by any measure. Score: 97

Read Dick Rosano’s debut novel, Tuscan Blood, available on Amazon.com